i was wondering if anyone knows anything about these kits.how do they sound,do they spool loud?,how do they perform,are they dd reliable?price? and what other mods will i need if i run the aps kit?
any info would help,thanks

 

first you will need the bmr k member, then the factory turbos will take a dump on you and you will have to buy the lg motorsport replacements that cost 3200bucks (not 100$ sure, but in that price range) and no you will not be able to use any other brand of turbocharger.

if i where you i would get somebody to fabricate twin turbo manifolds and use Garrett t28 ball bearing units. that is exactly what i am doing

 

bunch of happy customers in this thread...

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...g-out-aps.html

 

++++5^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ lol

 

I think it is sad that not everyone knows about all the bad rep on aps....

 

I don't think they are making kits any more for f bodies. If you can get a used one for decent price maybe 3000 to 4000 then would. You can upgrade with the lg turbos,the stock ones might last or might not if you keep the boost at the shipped 7.5psi. Mine are ok at 5000 miles ,Hugger got more like 20,000 out of his and think few other people are still on the originals but the originals are basically ticking time bombs it seems.
You can put in any mits tdo6h center section, kando dynamics has them for around 800 bucks pair. Lg upgrades are like 2800 pair.The kando dynamics say they are genuine mits but who knows for sure.Either of these upgrades are plug and play.Guys seem to be getting good numbers from the LG upgrades ,see how they hold up as time goes by but think they will be fine.

Other minor things with kit are easy to fix. Stent inlet tubes if you don't have the newer design,put in spacer for front sway bar so it dont' hit intercooler pipes. Some overheating problems depending on where you live and if you run your air. Might need bigger rad, high flow water pump for that problem. I had one near overheat so far on my car so likey add the rad and water pump over winter.But don't get that hot up here usually and not for that long and this isn't my only vehicle.

As others said most of the rest of the kits seems to be nice quality. intercooler fits in there good ,is massive,piping looks nice, exhaust manifolds,coolant overflow, windshield washer reservoir,downpipes.gates..And you still have plug access and you get to keep your air and not much gets relocated ,battery stays in stock location,alternator.
You do need bmr kmember but think people have used umi? Its tuner kit too so you need fuel support, tuning, ypipe if you care keeping standard catback setup. I got ceramic coated hooker ypipe it fits perfect.

I am pretty happy with my kit overall. It was like 5500 shipped and even adding in the LG or kando plug and play replacements still pretty reasonable compared to a lot of the other systems available. Not many twin kits out there..KYTP is making some one offs but not sure on their pricing have to ask them.
ground clearance is also good with my aps kit but my car is back at stock height now maybe a bit lower from the weight of the iron block and turbo kit. Sometimes ,at car shows mostly would like more visible turbos they are totally hidden with only the intercooler neck showing the twin turbo script. Very stealthy if you want them to be.
As for loud they are pretty loud out of the car buddy said car sounds like f16 going by under good throttle even at 7.5psi.
Didn't like stock plastic bosch blow offs although they worked fine so put in turbosmart supersonics they are nice and louder but pricey.

Also their might be issues with smoking even after upgrading the turbos so bought scavenger pump to add to my setup if need be. FI is not cheap. If you don't have at least 10k dont get into it. Better to stay with NA build.

 

Yes our K-member will work with the APS system as well.

If we can help anymore please ask. Thanks!
Ryan

 

i have heard bad and good but i wanted to see more opinions.i dont know everything,and i wanted to ask before i wasted a bunch of money....and there is some serious rides out there sportin the aps kit.ill make a new thread asking "what forced induction setup should i run"

 

Price must have when up since 2 months ago ? I paid like $2850 shipped for my LG turbos and if upgrading the turbos you should use a scavanging pump too as LG Motorsports does this on his APS builds as i too did on mine The APS gravity setup sucks ***

 

they might spool loud WHEN the turbo takes a dump lol. Talk to Josh at Kentucky turbo. He's got the one hit and quit kit lol. He does great work and his customer service is second to none. Talk to some of the people whom he's already built a kit for. I have a kit that is being built now. I'll be doing a build thread update here soon when the pics start rolling in. Later Chris

 

I like the way they sound. They are not noticeable at idle. And scream when you get into it! I have surprised quite a few people on the roads when they hear the turbo's spool. Had a WRX next to me one day with a cocky grin on his face at a light. As soon as he heard the turbo's his head snapped around to look at me with this "Oh S&$T" look on his face. Gosh I wish I had video of that. Still makes me laugh thinking about it.

Well my kit has been DD reliable. I put it on in Aug, 2007. Had it tuned by Sep 2007 and in 2 years have put over 25k on the set-up. Unfortunately not everyone has had good luck with the turbo's. They seem to be fine at the stock 7psi. Anything over 10psi the turbo's get overspun and will blow. Mine have finally possibly worn out. I get some smoke every once in a while. So I will be taking them apart and getting them checked/rebuilt this winter.

Supporting mods: BMR or UMI K-member, fuel injectors, fuel pump, valvesprings, pushrods, gauges (I have fuel pressure, wideband, boost). That is all I have on my car. And hell, my gauges are still not wired up yet. Those are getting finished this winter too. Yes, 2 years and no issue with a proper tune. Eventually my wideband will be working. Ha ha. But my tuner used it when the car was originally tuned.

Other mods if you plan on stickier tires: trans rebuild, rearend upgrade, suspension upgrades. My car already had LCA's and a torque arm relocation bracket. Eventually it will get a new rearend and torque arm. And the M6 is getting rebuilt this winter. I seem to have worn out some components with all this power. I stayed on street tires and my 10bolt has survived just fine. Those are my fuse. I'd rather break the tires loose than blow the rear.

My goal was a fun, reliable car and so far it has been just that. I can get in and go without worry. I had a few small issues like the coolant overflow hose cracking and spitting coolant so it ran hot a few times until I figured that one out. Other then that, nothing major. I have driven it to my carclub's track rental, made 8 passes and drove home with the A/C blasting. I am not sure if I got lucky with my turbo's or if it's because I haven't pushed them beyond the stock 7psi. But that put me at 538rwhp which is more than enough for me. So I am not pushing it.

 

The RR version is a bit tricky as far as TT goes. I'll let ya know how that turns out.

 

Dont get me wronge UMI,,, I think you guys make one hell of a K member but ive decided today to pull my UMI and sell it to somebody (without an APS) as nothing ive seemed to do so far seems to give me enough clearance to keep my drivers APS inlet hose from being pushed into the steering knuckle from the curved part of your K member and being tore up. Ive even went as far as to epoxy a bearing around my steering knuckle to act as a spacer,,, but the u joint still digs into my drivers inlet hose. So unless you guys have tweeked your k member in the last 2 years i dont recomend it to us APS guys unless i got a off one from you guys? Ive even tryed wrapping the hose with one of those leakless exhaust band type clamps to protect the hose, but is just to hard to get in there without dropping your k member alittle to do it.

 

The bmr one recommended by aps seems to work fine in my car.I have no problems with it like you seem to be having Barnat..So Barnat are you driving your car or is it put away? Mine will go away shortly right after finish this 4l80 swap and put a few miles on it. Another day or so should be done.

 

I think barnat is having problems with the umi not the bmr

 

I meant the recommended bmr works fine. I know Barnat has the umi.