How much boost is possible with a 402 built for boost with a d1? Im sure this has been answered just could not find.

 

Don't know. I thought the F1 superchargers were better for 402+ engines?

 

"boost" depends on how free-flowing your intake and exhaust setups are, but in terms of power, you shouldn't have much trouble hitting 650+ to the tire.

 

Check this one out we did.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...Car.php?car=42 Bob

 

So you are 16lbs of boost what is the compression ration on that 402? So are you telling me that is not a good set up for a 9 second street car?

 

It probably is good for a street car, but I bet the 402,408,416,422,427 motors would be much more efficient with the F1 cases. I think that is just too much air for the D1SC no matter how much boost it lists. Remember: airflow makes the power, not boost. A D1SC straining with 16psi on a big motor will not make as much power as an F1 at 10-12psi.

 

Yes it is.

 

I guess the proof is in his sig, and Truth is running 9's with D1 on a 396 LS1. So yes it will work, would a F1 work better if it's in your budget.......yes, but it's not needed to hit 9's.

 

Helicoil what did u mean by yes it is and do you wish you would have gotten an f1? To me it looks like you could have a low 9 second car with some weight removed. Do you think that d1 is to little for your combination? I Would think an f1 would be pointless on the street my ls1 with a cam and 8 lbs of boost does not hook on the street and i have all of the suspension goodies to. Or am i going about this all wrong maybe i need less cubic inches rather then a 402 to run a faster et sorry for so many questions at once.

 

I had an F1A 'race' kit at first, sold it before ever installing it. Got the D1SC F-body kit instead. Much quieter and it fit with no hacking. It surpassed my goals. No complaints. Car needs a full roll cage now to go to the track. Or I turn it down. I didn't want a race car, it just runs like one.

It all depends on what you want. Sure I could go faster with a F1A, but there are trade offs, FMIC vs twin 4.5" coolers, noise, fitment, belt slip, etc.

For me it would be a giant step towards more of a track car. I am content and will probably slow it back down to low 10's to stay legal at my track, drive it and enjoy it for what it is. She's only got 5000 miles on it.

You can go low 9's with a D1SC at 3400 lbs on a 347/364 combo, look up all of KP's threads. He has done it a bunch of times.

And yes a 9 sec street car is pretty difficult almost impossible to hook from a dig. So yes, and F1 on a street cat doesn't make alot of sense, but most people don't stay on the street forever.

 

do you have to move the radiator for a F1A, I was thinking that since it was smaller than the other F's and about the same sixe as the D1 it would fit without hacking?

 

Never installed one, From what I've seen and read I think it may go with the truck inlet hat that EPP sells from another Procharger kit depending on where the BOV is placed in the charge pipe. Still have to move the bottom of the radiator forward a little to get it in, not sure how that plays out for the A/C condenser if keeping A/C. But to get a nice 4" radius inlet on the F1A to take full advantage of the supercharger you will have to trim some core support out of there and really move the radiator forward.

Not sure all the belt slip problems have been remedied when drving one hard at 15-16 psi either. Seems many still see slip at the upper RPM's. So in my opinion what is the advantage if you can't take 'full advantage' of the bigger unit. The power in the middle gained is not that significant over a D1SC, but all the sacrifices have to be made along the way.

For me the D1SC is a bette fit, I don't have a race car, mine is a very mellow street car from the sound to the driveability. I like it just the way it is. If I wanted a 9.50 car at FULL weight I would get the FMIC and an F1A, but then I would need a certified roll cage, etc. etc. Not what I want in my street car.

The D1SC is a very capable unit, as others have said. I wouldn't underestimate it. I am 'slightly' overspinning mine currently depending on where my RPM goes (mainly at the stripe) and my air temps are in check with meth injection. I honestly believe working out some supsension issues I could run 9.60's at this weight with this 14# tune, but I was caught at my local track and told to slow it down or take it home so I quit pursuing going faster.

I do plan to install 28" tires to get the RPM down a hair and that should keep me under 62,000 head unit RPM. At 6750 RPM I just surpass the MAX impeller speed by about 700 RPM, but it is only happening for about 1 -1.5 sec during a 1/4 mile hit. That won't be the case when I slow the supercharger down to 10-11 psi and run very bottom 10's with it.

I like the twin 4.5" coolers for packaging, with meth it all works well. I didn't want to hack up my car. To each his own, you just have to decide what you want in the end. Its simple really. The hard part is not wanting to go faster and faster. My advice would be pick a goal and stick to it, then you don't have to do things twice.

 

yes you have to move the radiator