Ultimate Street Car (On A Budget)
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I have an LS6 valley pan, but I still saw a good bit of oil in the intake from when I was previously spraying the motor. Now, with even more pressure in the crank, I need to modify the PCV system to keep up with the demands of the turbo. After doing a lot of research on this, this is the setup I'm going with for that:
![](http://www.andersonperformance.net/pcv-2extfi.jpg)
#64
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I got my custom Saikou Michi catch cans and put them in today. I'm very pleased with how they turned out. They fit great! Excelent quality product. He gave me the option to have them powder coated red at no extra charge as well. The only problem I had was the damn bolt hole that holds up the TCS module that I used to mount the tank beaker on stripped out on me.
I guess I have to get a tap on it and drill the bracket holes out for a bigger bolt.
Anyway, here are some pics of the setup:
![](http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j155/cbwasson/aa61368f.jpg)
![](http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j155/cbwasson/f0ee5d9c.jpg)
![](http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j155/cbwasson/4e423a93.jpg)
I have the LS6 valley pan going through the factory PCV valve to the top of the "dirty" side of the catch tank, then back out and through a 1 psi one-way check valve into the intake. The "clean side goes from the front nipple on the passenger side valve cover, through the tank, and back to the lower turbo intake piping. The driver side and rear passenger side valve cover nipples and TB vacuum have all been capped off.
![MAD](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_mad.gif)
![Rolleyes](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/rolleyes.gif)
![](http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j155/cbwasson/aa61368f.jpg)
![](http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j155/cbwasson/f0ee5d9c.jpg)
![](http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j155/cbwasson/4e423a93.jpg)
I have the LS6 valley pan going through the factory PCV valve to the top of the "dirty" side of the catch tank, then back out and through a 1 psi one-way check valve into the intake. The "clean side goes from the front nipple on the passenger side valve cover, through the tank, and back to the lower turbo intake piping. The driver side and rear passenger side valve cover nipples and TB vacuum have all been capped off.
![](http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j155/cbwasson/2e243c88.jpg)
Last edited by bluebird71; 08-26-2010 at 09:19 PM.
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You'd be better off with both of those vacuum sources going back to the turbo's inlet. Never-minding that the one way valve could potentially stick one day and you'd be pressurizing the side that you want to evac, under boost, that one catch can and evac point will do nothing at all because the one way valve will close. With it back to the inlet, boost creates more of a draw to pull off of the crankcase when you need it most. That way you draw from both points under boost.
I have had better luck with two cans myself on the last few setups, but done differently. All of the cars with a single can still seem to get some oil into their turbo/intercooler because the one can doesn't trap it all. I have been going from the valley cover and the valve cover; tying them together and into the first can. Then I tie the outlet of the first can into the second can. The other side of the second can goes back to the turbo inlet. This has produced the cleanest inlet tracts for me. It's not perfect, but it works better than one can in the path.
I have had better luck with two cans myself on the last few setups, but done differently. All of the cars with a single can still seem to get some oil into their turbo/intercooler because the one can doesn't trap it all. I have been going from the valley cover and the valve cover; tying them together and into the first can. Then I tie the outlet of the first can into the second can. The other side of the second can goes back to the turbo inlet. This has produced the cleanest inlet tracts for me. It's not perfect, but it works better than one can in the path.
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I have a little piece of PCV line left that would be perfect for tying the two cans together if I choose to change it over to that later. I haven't got everything else back to gether to run the car and test it out yet though. What I found in researching the PCV system that made me go with this setup, rather than having both sides scavenged by the turbo intakes, is that the system operates differently at different throttle positions. This setup is supposed to help it run smooth at idle (off boost), keep it properly flowing at partial throttle, and keep it from flooding the intake at WOT.
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Update:
I changed the angle of the scavenge pump to put it more in line with the flow of the turbos and ran all new -8 braided lines and Y-block. I also moved the return line from the port where the low oil level sensor used to be and tapped it into the top front of the pan. I also added a .65" oil restrictor between the check valve and the T-fitting on the turbo oil feed line. I was having very low oil pressure at idle and running just over 210 when the motor got warmed up using 10W30 oil. I moved up to Mobile1 15W50 and now it seems to maintain close to 20 psi at idle and stays under 210.
![](http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j155/cbwasson/948e085d.jpg)
![](http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j155/cbwasson/16fad911.jpg)
![](http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j155/cbwasson/7be97f4c.jpg)
The only problem I have right now is that the car doesn't want to stay idling on its own. It is supposed to idle at abut 800 rpm but wants to sit at about 500 now and starts to choke itself out. If I keep my foot on the gas a bit and keep it where it's supposed to be, it does just fine, but no matter how long it runs, it just wants to die if I let it run on its own for a minute. I still have some oil resedue in the intake from when the turbos were flooding with oil and passing it through the intake side and that also pretty much fouled my plugs. Im going to Seafoam the intake, change the plugs, clean the 02 sensor, and put some fresh gas and meth in it and see how it does then.
I changed the angle of the scavenge pump to put it more in line with the flow of the turbos and ran all new -8 braided lines and Y-block. I also moved the return line from the port where the low oil level sensor used to be and tapped it into the top front of the pan. I also added a .65" oil restrictor between the check valve and the T-fitting on the turbo oil feed line. I was having very low oil pressure at idle and running just over 210 when the motor got warmed up using 10W30 oil. I moved up to Mobile1 15W50 and now it seems to maintain close to 20 psi at idle and stays under 210.
![](http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j155/cbwasson/948e085d.jpg)
![](http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j155/cbwasson/16fad911.jpg)
![](http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j155/cbwasson/7be97f4c.jpg)
The only problem I have right now is that the car doesn't want to stay idling on its own. It is supposed to idle at abut 800 rpm but wants to sit at about 500 now and starts to choke itself out. If I keep my foot on the gas a bit and keep it where it's supposed to be, it does just fine, but no matter how long it runs, it just wants to die if I let it run on its own for a minute. I still have some oil resedue in the intake from when the turbos were flooding with oil and passing it through the intake side and that also pretty much fouled my plugs. Im going to Seafoam the intake, change the plugs, clean the 02 sensor, and put some fresh gas and meth in it and see how it does then.