What cubic inches for d1sc
#21
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Last edited by conan; 11-10-2009 at 10:51 AM.
#23
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Exactly why I mentioned it. If this little simple mod officially eliminates the belt slip issues, why in the world **** away around $700 on a bracket set-up? Chad still needs to get it runnin on full boost to verify he has zero belt slipd though. should have word very soon.
#24
Since the LS2 and LS1 crank is good for over 800 rwhp would assume the LS3 crank is as good or better along with the fact the LS3 block is more rigid.
TSP sells a forged LS2 short block but haven't seen any short block LS3's yet.
IMO unless you want BIG horsepower and extreme reliability a forged LS2/LS3 long block or short block with new rods and forged pistons only is the cheapest route to take rather than a forged iron block 370.
There are many combinations to choose from but as I posted earlier forged LS2/LS3 with new rods and forged pistons only seem to never be in the discussion.
TSP sells a forged LS2 short block but haven't seen any short block LS3's yet.
IMO unless you want BIG horsepower and extreme reliability a forged LS2/LS3 long block or short block with new rods and forged pistons only is the cheapest route to take rather than a forged iron block 370.
There are many combinations to choose from but as I posted earlier forged LS2/LS3 with new rods and forged pistons only seem to never be in the discussion.
#26
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SO IF I WHERE YOU "CYAPUSSY" I WOULD STEP IT UP AND GROW SOME ***** AND GET THAT LS3 FOR THAT D1SC!! THEN YOU WILL MAKE THE POWER YOU WANT AND WILL HAVE THAT STRONGER LS3 BLOCK TOO THATS JUST MY INPUT!
#27
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First thing I would worry about before an engine is getting all the supporting mods. Such as a fuel system, proper flowing exhaust and a good tuner. Can put the biggest engine made in there, but without the rest of the parts to support it, will be just as slow as it is with a stock 346.
maybe you should talk to Dan Smith aka dschmittie1 about his setup. He is making awesome power and times on a basically stock 347. I have seen him burn up some local pewter trans am with a D1 without any trouble, because the guy doesnt have the mods to support the D1.
maybe you should talk to Dan Smith aka dschmittie1 about his setup. He is making awesome power and times on a basically stock 347. I have seen him burn up some local pewter trans am with a D1 without any trouble, because the guy doesnt have the mods to support the D1.
#28
First thing I would worry about before an engine is getting all the supporting mods. Such as a fuel system, proper flowing exhaust and a good tuner. Can put the biggest engine made in there, but without the rest of the parts to support it, will be just as slow as it is with a stock 346.
maybe you should talk to Dan Smith aka dschmittie1 about his setup. He is making awesome power and times on a basically stock 347. I have seen him burn up some local pewter trans am with a D1 without any trouble, because the guy doesnt have the mods to support the D1.
maybe you should talk to Dan Smith aka dschmittie1 about his setup. He is making awesome power and times on a basically stock 347. I have seen him burn up some local pewter trans am with a D1 without any trouble, because the guy doesnt have the mods to support the D1.
All of the red stuff, + exhaust, cooling, TQ converter, upgraded 4LE60, rearend, wheels and tires, FMIC, and tune. You need all of it to handle all of the extra power - 300 more rwhp is a lot to handle.
Add it all up and it will get you about half of a new 2010 Camaro with an LS3.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/18359304@N07/3471503878/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7602956888623/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7602956888623/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/18359304@N07/3631453766/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7602956888623/
#31
Yes, that is what I would do for a D-1SC. With a larger air filter we don't have much of a problem with belt slippage. Our cog kit would take care of any possibility of belt slippage, and we were shocked at how much harder the mid range hit is with the cog kit. Apparently we were getting belt slippage in the mid range that was never enough to show up on the dyno graph as peaks and valleys, but the difference is dramatic. Bob
#32
Check this '08 C6 where we added our blower cam and a D-1SC to the stock internally engine. Bob
#33
#34
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Hey Bob could you email me a quote on a D1SC with whatever is the good 8 rib setup?
john@motorsports-media.com
john@motorsports-media.com
#35
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First thing I would worry about before an engine is getting all the supporting mods. Such as a fuel system, proper flowing exhaust and a good tuner. Can put the biggest engine made in there, but without the rest of the parts to support it, will be just as slow as it is with a stock 346.
maybe you should talk to Dan Smith aka dschmittie1 about his setup. He is making awesome power and times on a basically stock 347. I have seen him burn up some local pewter trans am with a D1 without any trouble, because the guy doesnt have the mods to support the D1.
maybe you should talk to Dan Smith aka dschmittie1 about his setup. He is making awesome power and times on a basically stock 347. I have seen him burn up some local pewter trans am with a D1 without any trouble, because the guy doesnt have the mods to support the D1.
#36
Hey Bob could you email me a quote on a D1SC with whatever is the good 8 rib setup?
john@motorsports-media.com
john@motorsports-media.com
#40
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So what about big cubed M6 cars? I was looking at the F series (don't know the major differences between the F1, F1C and F1R) for my 402 M6 car. Cog drives seem to be the way to go but it says on the epp site that an M6 car will destroy the cog setup. Am I forced to go turbo since I have a M6?