What cubic inches for d1sc
#2
TECH Senior Member
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You could feed a 39x ci ls1 or a 402 ls2 with a D1, My vote would be the 402/ls2. There are a few guys on here in the 9's with bigger ci and a D1.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...arger-lol.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...et-139mph.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...arger-lol.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...et-139mph.html
#5
I have a 416" LS3 using a D1sc with single intercooler. I am getting 15.5 lbs using a 3.75" pulley and a 7.25" balancer. This is 53000 rpm @ 6600 engine rpm, blower max rating is 62000 rpm. 858 rwhp 780rwtq
#6
Damn, that is not bad at all. I wonder how that would hold up on a 427" LS3/LQ9 (4.07" bore 4.100" stroke)?
#7
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#8
Anything larger makes the 'lil D-1SC work so hard the inlet air temps tend to run hotter. Bob
#9
#10
So if I ever want to strap a blower to my iron 427 and put 15psi to it I should probably only consider an F1C or F1A.
#13
You see forged 347's, and forged 370's, and some forged 383's but never forged LS2 -364's with stock crank or forged LS3 376's with stock crank with D1.
Most seem inclined to want to go to 402 or 408 with a D1 instead of just forged pistons leaving the crank stock.
Why not a forged 364 or 376?
Most seem inclined to want to go to 402 or 408 with a D1 instead of just forged pistons leaving the crank stock.
Why not a forged 364 or 376?
#14
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That was my exact thought i would think a non stroker motor would rev faster but i could be wrong. What is the benifit of a stroker motor with boost?
Last edited by CyaPussy; 11-09-2009 at 07:02 PM.
#15
Check out the above T/A. We managed to get 16 psi out of the D-1SC on the 402, but it was overworking the blower.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...Car.php?car=12
Check out my Camaro in the above link. We managed to get 19 psi out of the F-1A with my 408, it was maxed out as well.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...Car.php?car=51
Check out the above '08 Z06, where we built a Warhawk 427 and installed an F-1C, then we swapped the F-1C out for an F-1R. We then got 19 psi out of it. This engine had heads and an intake that flowed too well, this engine needed an F2 blower.
To answer your question, on a 427 I'd go with an F-1C or an F-1R. Bob
#16
You see forged 347's, and forged 370's, and some forged 383's but never forged LS2 -364's with stock crank or forged LS3 376's with stock crank with D1.
Most seem inclined to want to go to 402 or 408 with a D1 instead of just forged pistons leaving the crank stock.
Why not a forged 364 or 376?
Most seem inclined to want to go to 402 or 408 with a D1 instead of just forged pistons leaving the crank stock.
Why not a forged 364 or 376?
More torque. Bob
#18
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iTrader: (116)
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...rap-fbody.html
#19
These motors make so some much power and torque anyway at 10- 15 lbs of boost that I never did agree with the argument that you need a 402 or 408 for the street because of more torque. The LS3 is torquey enough for me and car will be all street - no drag.
My current setup is HC stock bottom end 347 with 8rib D1SC with a 4.38 pulley. On a very safe tune makes 565 rwhp on a Mustang Dnyo. So a forged pistons only LS3 376 should do me just fine as it won't be a drag car (1998 Z28).
#20
Check out ChevyChad's recent thread about adding another pulley to a machined standoff w/standard j-bracket. That along with the 8-rib set-up should make it difficult to get belt slip.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...rap-fbody.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...rap-fbody.html
How about a kit we can buy and bolt on for us that don't have access to CNC machinists?
I like the idea of a machined standoff bolt and pulley and longer belt much better than the SDCE setup selling for over $700.