New 1/4 mile best today
11-08-2009, 11:09 AM
#22
I have SA starnge in the front, they are 2 or three clicks from loose, rear shocks are CE three ways at 40/60. Main thing is I have the front end travel limited to around 3.5". the 2 step dictates the wheelie size, 2500rpm = no wheelie, 2800 is what you see mostly, and 3500 = on the bumper.
I went 8.90s with the F1A, but I'm pretty sure I can do it with the D1SC if I swap cams and get lucky on weather.
I used up some VP 104 unleaded I had laying around this time, I only run 16* degrees of timing after 80' or so out, I have a timer that takes one degree out after 8 seconds. I have run it the same way on 93 pump gas and it actually runs a little quicker but the head gaskets dont like it. I usually use C16 though, more for safety so if something happens I wont melt a piston or head.
I am not pushing it at all really except for RPM, thats still an LS6 intake, stock TB etc. Its not making much power at all, it just looks good because the car works well overall. Its really nothing special and if I tried I'm sure I could get it n the 8.80-8.90 range really leaning on it with some more weight out of it. But if I'm too lazy to race it I'm certainly too lazy to try to blow it up - then I have to fix it. That ECS C5 running 8.7x that was just posted up is more impressive then mine, not sure what it weighs but thats a pretty similar thing to what I'm doing it appears. Not sure what a NOVI 2000 is compared to a D1SC CFM-wise but either way thats impressive for an IRS car, glide helps with rear end life I would assume.
Isn't that the truth. Nice passes! Good ole Beech Bend, I have always kinda liked that track. Ran there a bunch years ago with the Outlaw car, K&B in Bowling Green built it, so I tested there alot.
That T-brake, two step, 5000 stall, 3350 lb raceweight and a good hook are the reasons that little D1SC/347 LS1 runs so hard. Nonetheless, a little cammed 347/D1SC engine can get it done when the rest of the set-up favors its power curve.
Nice job! Although haven't you been 8's already with the D1 in the other car, same set-up, or was that with the F1A on it, can't remember even though this all looks so familiar. I like to see such a simple combo outrun alot of these turbo cars that are on this forum. Just shows a properly set-up package will yield great results.
Couple questions for you.
Was this with race gas? How much timing were you running? Boost?
That T-brake, two step, 5000 stall, 3350 lb raceweight and a good hook are the reasons that little D1SC/347 LS1 runs so hard. Nonetheless, a little cammed 347/D1SC engine can get it done when the rest of the set-up favors its power curve.
Nice job! Although haven't you been 8's already with the D1 in the other car, same set-up, or was that with the F1A on it, can't remember even though this all looks so familiar. I like to see such a simple combo outrun alot of these turbo cars that are on this forum. Just shows a properly set-up package will yield great results.
Couple questions for you.
Was this with race gas? How much timing were you running? Boost?
I used up some VP 104 unleaded I had laying around this time, I only run 16* degrees of timing after 80' or so out, I have a timer that takes one degree out after 8 seconds. I have run it the same way on 93 pump gas and it actually runs a little quicker but the head gaskets dont like it. I usually use C16 though, more for safety so if something happens I wont melt a piston or head.
I am not pushing it at all really except for RPM, thats still an LS6 intake, stock TB etc. Its not making much power at all, it just looks good because the car works well overall. Its really nothing special and if I tried I'm sure I could get it n the 8.80-8.90 range really leaning on it with some more weight out of it. But if I'm too lazy to race it I'm certainly too lazy to try to blow it up - then I have to fix it. That ECS C5 running 8.7x that was just posted up is more impressive then mine, not sure what it weighs but thats a pretty similar thing to what I'm doing it appears. Not sure what a NOVI 2000 is compared to a D1SC CFM-wise but either way thats impressive for an IRS car, glide helps with rear end life I would assume.
11-08-2009, 11:17 AM
#24
I have SA starnge in the front, they are 2 or three clicks from loose, rear shocks are CE three ways at 40/60. Main thing is I have the front end travel limited to around 3.5". the 2 step dictates the wheelie size, 2500rpm = no wheelie, 2800 is what you see mostly, and 3500 = on the bumper.
11-08-2009, 11:22 AM
#26
I have convertible springs in the rear, stiff as hell, I aso have 300lb springs in the front, these cars dont need a soft suspension to work. I also have the battery in front still to help keep the front down. Leaned my lesson from the last car that taking too much weight off the front and putting it on the rear isnt really necessary with these.
11-08-2009, 11:27 AM
#27
Still the 5 year old thunder racing 224/227 115 that came in this car when I bought it. Not sure if its a comp XE or lunati since the numbers are ground off. Its not the best in the world for what I'm doing, but similar to the 222/228 115 XE I used to use in the other car for a while and runs about the same as well.
11-08-2009, 11:52 AM
#29
I mph the same at sdr vs steele so who knows....mine only back halfs 27-28mph normally. My 9.39 was at 145....i got 5 more mph with a little timing and about .5 leaner afr and a worse 60'. As i keep learning the suspension and settings, Ill eventually try to leave harder. I have had more fun tweaking what i already had vs just adding boost...and of course..GONE FASTER as you do know KP.
Quit crying about that little cam...i got a 408 with only a 228/234 .585/.585 and shift at 6200....Im like you....changing headgaskets suck for a few tenths!!!!!!!!!
Quit crying about that little cam...i got a 408 with only a 228/234 .585/.585 and shift at 6200....Im like you....changing headgaskets suck for a few tenths!!!!!!!!!
Dont rub it in, it wasnt the best day yesterday for me, I may head up to SDR before the end of the season. Fridays are tough.. SDR typically is 2-3mph higher on 1/4 mile mph then BG, so dont pay too much attention the mph if you run at SDR mostly, different tracks have different clock setups. Here is the ET slip from yesterday and one from a couple years ago with my old car at SDR, notice the 1/8 to 1/4 mph difference on both. That was with my old car with pretty much the same cam and D1SC with the 3.4 pulley except it had 225 Dart heads on it at the time, but it was the same trans, converter, gear, weight etc. Wind may be a slight factor but SDR is the only track I ever picked up over 31mph from the 1/8 to 1/4, usually its 27-28mph. Not that its bad, all tracks are a little different..
Honestly if I retarded the cam and put some taller tires on it it would run closer to 150 at BG but the ET wouldnt change any, My old car I could let off and coast at 8-900' and still run a 9.0x @ 100mph, thats what shows you how important the first 330' is ET-wise. Granted big MPH shows you are making the power but weak ETs means you just arent using it well, but making 4000lbs 60 foot well certainly isnt easy
I can run 16psi no problem with these, 18 or so I just blow them off, pressure is pretty touchy though and all cars are different. I have all rod ends in the rear suspension and that cuts down on the radial chatter, if you have any rubber/poly bushings it will chatter bad. I'll probably go back to slicks, way more consistent, much better on marginal tracks and easier on parts.
Honestly if I retarded the cam and put some taller tires on it it would run closer to 150 at BG but the ET wouldnt change any, My old car I could let off and coast at 8-900' and still run a 9.0x @ 100mph, thats what shows you how important the first 330' is ET-wise. Granted big MPH shows you are making the power but weak ETs means you just arent using it well, but making 4000lbs 60 foot well certainly isnt easy
I can run 16psi no problem with these, 18 or so I just blow them off, pressure is pretty touchy though and all cars are different. I have all rod ends in the rear suspension and that cuts down on the radial chatter, if you have any rubber/poly bushings it will chatter bad. I'll probably go back to slicks, way more consistent, much better on marginal tracks and easier on parts.
11-08-2009, 04:19 PM
#30
I mph the same at sdr vs steele so who knows....mine only back halfs 27-28mph normally. My 9.39 was at 145....i got 5 more mph with a little timing and about .5 leaner afr and a worse 60'. As i keep learning the suspension and settings, Ill eventually try to leave harder. I have had more fun tweaking what i already had vs just adding boost...and of course..GONE FASTER as you do know KP.
Quit crying about that little cam...i got a 408 with only a 228/234 .585/.585 and shift at 6200....Im like you....changing headgaskets suck for a few tenths!!!!!!!!!
Quit crying about that little cam...i got a 408 with only a 228/234 .585/.585 and shift at 6200....Im like you....changing headgaskets suck for a few tenths!!!!!!!!!
Everyone has their PITA vs ET tolerance level, mine is pretty low right now. I get a kick out of getting a half a tenth here and there as opposed to putting a bigger cam or blower on, honestly I'm pretty happy how this one runs. I know if I push it harder it will start moving water, been there before. But I can chip away at it a little more here and there, thats what keeps me interested.
I got to cry about something, so may as well be the cam
11-08-2009, 07:08 PM
#31
what AFR's are you guys seeing that are safe-im trying to get the new engine close so less changes on the dyno-i run a blowthru carb, i know im a little rich at WOT, around 10.5-i'll prob have to wait for the dyno to get a decent plug reading, using 6's
i swapped out my 4.25 pulley for a 4.0 (7.53 bottom) prob around 14 lbs now
i swapped out my 4.25 pulley for a 4.0 (7.53 bottom) prob around 14 lbs now
11-08-2009, 08:00 PM
#34
what AFR's are you guys seeing that are safe-im trying to get the new engine close so less changes on the dyno-i run a blowthru carb, i know im a little rich at WOT, around 10.5-i'll prob have to wait for the dyno to get a decent plug reading, using 6's
i swapped out my 4.25 pulley for a 4.0 (7.53 bottom) prob around 14 lbs now
i swapped out my 4.25 pulley for a 4.0 (7.53 bottom) prob around 14 lbs now
I ran a best of 10.31 @ 131 NA with my #8's in. I had them in for the 385 shot but ran them all the time. It's a good all around plug.
10.5 is too rich. I would try to lean that up into atleast the low 11's.
11-09-2009, 12:46 PM
#40
what AFR's are you guys seeing that are safe-im trying to get the new engine close so less changes on the dyno-i run a blowthru carb, i know im a little rich at WOT, around 10.5-i'll prob have to wait for the dyno to get a decent plug reading, using 6's
i swapped out my 4.25 pulley for a 4.0 (7.53 bottom) prob around 14 lbs now
i swapped out my 4.25 pulley for a 4.0 (7.53 bottom) prob around 14 lbs now
I figure with methanol having a richer A/F ratio, like 6:1, and the fact I am spraying a fair amount of it, my target A/F will come down a bit. Just my personal thought, car seems to run good at 10.5-10.6. When I played with leaner and richer A/F's on the dyno there wasn't alot of power difference between the 10.5 and 12:1 ratios, none worth chasing in my experiences.
Never got to do any real back to back testing on the track with this, although I will say timing made more of a difference then tweeking the VE or PE Enrichment/boost tables for performance.