TheFallen

Well here is the run down of the project. driveline is a 02 4.8 [293ci motor] PTe88 turbo, Viper spec'd T56, 230/236 cam, ls2 intake, 241 heads. this exact setup made 702 rwhp and 565rwtq in my silverado with pig rich AFR of 10.4. Since the camaro is about 1k pounds lighter then the silverado i was curious to see how the setup would preform in a lighter chassis. I shift this setup at 7500 rpms but might bump that up a few hundred rpms. Car is going to have powersteering and all the bells and whistles, this isnt a track car just a street warrior that will see track times but again isnt a full out track setup. I know auto would be faster but isnt an option.

here are the mock up pics of setup






some of this kit is carried over from the silverado. also this will be exiting thru a CME but will use a cutout off the downpipe for track days


when fiinshed car wil lbe electron blue with white 35th aniversary stripes. wheels are OEM C6Z06 wheels with a Dick harrel clone widebody kit. engine bay has been smoothed and filled. the holes created from turbo kit will be filled and smoothed once again. all wires are going to be tucked and hiddend under the chassis. this will be a drawnout project

well today i worked on my rad support so i could use stock rad and fans. i cut rad support like many do and the piece that was removed was skinned and overlapped over the remaining piece. goal was to remain as stock looking as possible and doing this i still have strenght of stock and lines of stock as well. I also drilled out the spot welds holding the lower rad support in place. im sliding this peice foward to allow myself to keep the same angle of stock rad/fan setup.




made some progress after getting my bottles filled.






still up in air if i should triangluate the rad support for more strenght, ran short on time to finish more of it. Have to head to class

made some more progress today.

first up you can see how the rad is supported. i used 1x1 tube and cut it in half then i used stock rubber holders from the plastic rad cover and used them as the feet. I then had a cover break'd formed and also used a set of rubber holders on top





I also scored an AC delete box

TheFallen

then i started working on my nose support





it setup to use all the stock pushpins





ithen made more tabs to support the lower part of nose from flopping around


in these two pics you can see how open the area iis and how the intecooler is tucked in the nose



made some more progress today. started working on the manifold. You can see the final placement of the turbo, still have to finish welding it then possibly work on the downpipe







well i got more progress done today.

here are some shots of the IC moved as far forward into the nose as possible. I had to lose the TA foglight idea. so ill be adding some type of grill of some sort to hide the IC. also as you can see by the blue marker i still need to trim some more of the nose

im going to build a air deflector to direct the air from nose of car down to lower part of the IC and one from nose to top of IC this way the air is directed into the IC only

you can see in the pics the stock lower air deflector is in place just moved forward and reangled and works more as a scope to help direct air into the rad

TheFallen

now you can see the pics of the fuel rails and regulator. I Had it this way wihen i twas in the silverado and works well in the camaro. its hidden which i like the plan for this build is to be as clean as possible and things hidden






well today i made some more progress. Todays progress consisted of working on the manifold. As you can see the plugs are easily accessible and changable.



still leaves room to run stock heaterhoses


here you can see a mock up of the 4" dowpipe





in this pic youll see i have plenty of room on how the DP will route. ill be making a 90* turn and go between the engine mount and the block

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

thats awesome man. keep this updated. I like those manifolds

OUTLAWZ RACING

iTrader: (9)

Sweet altho I would move the fpr to the front of the rail for better access

TheFallen

you can still access it, moving it forward takes away from the "clean look" not mention how often do you actually mess with FPR once it set? As long as i ran this setup before i never once messed with the FPR

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

The truck was an auto wasn't it?

I suggest a smaller cam. It will work better with the stick car.

TheFallen

no the truck was a manual and the cam goes along with the rpms this spins. Thanks for suggestions but this is already a proven combo that has ran, only difference is its going into a lighter chassis

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

Then it should work much better

BadgeZ28

iTrader: (28)

Was this a salvage vehicle?

squale iii

badass...i want my vert to be like this lol.

MUSTANGBRKR02

iTrader: (91)

Looks great! Keep snapping pics.

TheFallen

made little progress today. I channel'd the frame using a piece of 4" pipe. This was done for the 3" outlet.




i still need to address the welds some but thats another day along with the other work done in other areas

here you can see how the nose is supported along with how the IC and its tubing looks

TheFallen

Here is todays progress.

I welded up the holes in the bay with 16guage. I had a 4.25" hole cut so my charge pipe could pass thru with the clean look




in these two pics you can see the 2 holes i cut into another piece of 16 gauge. 1 hole is for the 3" charge pipe and other hole is for the 4" air intake




in this pic you can see the 4" pipe sticking down. Ill be tossing on a filter to this. I chose this postion for the filter for a cleaner look, cooler air and the pressurized air from behind the foglight

eviltwin_1987

iTrader: (18)

i like all the fab work going into this project

davidadavila

awsome work keep us updated

TheFallen

thanks, thats the part i enjoy most about builds like this is the fab work into the project

TheFallen

since the plan was to hide the wiring and make the bay look as clean as possible. with doing this i had to relocated the fuse boxes but instead of relocating two of them i comdensed the two fuse boxes into one and relabled the cover. Here you an see where the fuse box is now located and is accessible from under the car

elias_799

iTrader: (8)

i see you have gotten some metal shavings inside the head when you where probably grinding. try to keep it clean in there, metal shaving are no good for engine bearings.

venom ws7

iTrader: (13)

Awesome setup and work man keep it up....