Rear mount gto build. :) LQx REBUILD TO COME
07-07-2010, 07:03 PM
#121
TECH Regular
Block off the tail pipe and start it....So, when you put the 10# spring in did your boost go up by the amount of raise in spring pressure or did it stay the same? 5# was it?
07-07-2010, 07:06 PM
#122
nice, lol.
on the 7lb spring, properly referenced, i was pulling about 3-4lbs.
on the 10lb spring, im pulling right around 5lbs, maybe a little less. But now, i dont think wastegate is opening. havent listened hard enough. I will listen harder before i make the claim that its not opening.
on the 7lb spring, properly referenced, i was pulling about 3-4lbs.
on the 10lb spring, im pulling right around 5lbs, maybe a little less. But now, i dont think wastegate is opening. havent listened hard enough. I will listen harder before i make the claim that its not opening.
07-07-2010, 09:55 PM
#123
On The Tree
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im going to give it a look tonight, means i gotta remove my good old front bumper, DAMN, i just love removing the bumper on this car 
for anyone that didnt know yet, the turbo im using (updated first post) is a tiny little turbonetics 60-1 with a itty bitty .68 hotside. T4 divided. So, lol, i shouldnt be having any trouble spooling this too the moon and running out of steam with the quickness.
for anyone that didnt know yet, the turbo im using (updated first post) is a tiny little turbonetics 60-1 with a itty bitty .68 hotside. T4 divided. So, lol, i shouldnt be having any trouble spooling this too the moon and running out of steam with the quickness.
.86 or a larger divided housing of .96. Regardless, there is a good chance that you have a bad leak somewhere.
I run a .84 divided turbine on a 3400 v6. Got full boost in first gear under 3000 rpms with the valve
07-07-2010, 09:58 PM
#124
Not so sure if a divided turbine would work properly with that small of an A/R. You can't use a quick spool because it would choke the $#!+ out of the motor. Probably best to change to a standard size turbo with an A/R of
.86 or a larger divided housing of .96. Regardless, there is a good chance that you have a bad leak somewhere.
I run a .84 divided turbine on a 3400 v6. Got full boost in first gear under 3000 rpms with the valve
.86 or a larger divided housing of .96. Regardless, there is a good chance that you have a bad leak somewhere.
I run a .84 divided turbine on a 3400 v6. Got full boost in first gear under 3000 rpms with the valve
07-09-2010, 11:44 PM
#125
Well, I just got done air testing my charge pipe.
3 LEAKS that were going crazy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i couldnt even build 4lbs on my air compressor!!! Took about 2 hours to fix them. One leak back by turbo coupler, One right above my BOV, and one down on the intercooler. THAT ONE SUCKED! Had to remove my front bumper for the 500th time.
not to mention i had two T-Bolt clamps that were fubared all to hell, i was able to salvage one, but had to cut some silicone from another coupler to double the thickness, so i could use a 3" clamp since i was out of 2.5" clamps. But it worked. System held 12lbs very well, thats when the bov starts opening. which is fine for now since i wont be running anymore boost then 7-8lbs.
Im going to test drive in morning and see how she goes. I still had three clamps to put back on afterwords since i couldnt test it all at once, but these 3 looked really really good. all should be good. it built pressure very fast (using air compressor) after the clamps were fixed.
Hopefully ill be able to post a vid or something of a couple run ups after tomorrow fingers crossed!!!
3 LEAKS that were going crazy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i couldnt even build 4lbs on my air compressor!!! Took about 2 hours to fix them. One leak back by turbo coupler, One right above my BOV, and one down on the intercooler. THAT ONE SUCKED! Had to remove my front bumper for the 500th time.
not to mention i had two T-Bolt clamps that were fubared all to hell, i was able to salvage one, but had to cut some silicone from another coupler to double the thickness, so i could use a 3" clamp since i was out of 2.5" clamps. But it worked. System held 12lbs very well, thats when the bov starts opening. which is fine for now since i wont be running anymore boost then 7-8lbs.
Im going to test drive in morning and see how she goes. I still had three clamps to put back on afterwords since i couldnt test it all at once, but these 3 looked really really good. all should be good. it built pressure very fast (using air compressor) after the clamps were fixed.
Hopefully ill be able to post a vid or something of a couple run ups after tomorrow
fingers crossed!!! 
07-10-2010, 10:30 AM
#127
Alrighty, So here we go.
Fixed leaks and still couldnt build more then 4lbs of boost. So, i took everyones advice and removed wastegate refrence. BLAM! tryed to boost to the moon. SO, with that in mind, i figured i was getting about half values on my sping rating. so, i took my gate back off the car and added the small green (.5 bar) to the large yellow, which is supposed to be around 10lbs.
I was def scared this wouldnt work, or it would over boost. Well, 7-8 consistantly, on multiple run ups. AFR was 12s, i think, so i didnt beat on her too much, But, boost did flatline between 7-8 lbs. WIth that said, im going to go tune again
Any tricks with tuning to help spool her up??? I was told by a couple people to retard the timing down low and it would help increase cylinder pressure??
Also, i wont be staying with the dual springs, im going back to the 10lber and a manual boost controller for now.
But this bitch flys up top now. I was focusing on the road and boost gauge, and looked back down at speedo and was quickley 120+.
Fixed leaks and still couldnt build more then 4lbs of boost. So, i took everyones advice and removed wastegate refrence. BLAM! tryed to boost to the moon. SO, with that in mind, i figured i was getting about half values on my sping rating. so, i took my gate back off the car and added the small green (.5 bar) to the large yellow, which is supposed to be around 10lbs.
I was def scared this wouldnt work, or it would over boost. Well, 7-8 consistantly, on multiple run ups. AFR was 12s, i think, so i didnt beat on her too much, But, boost did flatline between 7-8 lbs. WIth that said, im going to go tune again
Any tricks with tuning to help spool her up??? I was told by a couple people to retard the timing down low and it would help increase cylinder pressure??
Also, i wont be staying with the dual springs, im going back to the 10lber and a manual boost controller for now.
But this bitch flys up top now. I was focusing on the road and boost gauge, and looked back down at speedo and was quickley 120+.
Last edited by JAX04; 07-10-2010 at 10:01 PM.
07-10-2010, 09:54 PM
#128
well, ran out of fuel pump tonight, 8ish lbs, maybe a little more. Stupid E85, lol. 32psi fuel pressue
well, im not sure if i should just be happy for awhile on 5-6 lbs or go back to gas.
When i started this build, my goal was to get as close as possible to 500whp. Since i mimicked my build off a six speed goat (where i got this snail from) and he made over 500whp and over 600wtq. SO i wanted to get close.
It didnt happen on the corn juice. The power im making now was fun, for the first couple days (when running 4 or 5), But it doesnt plant me like i want it to.
So, do i go back to gas for while, or i do wait till i can afford to build a max effort fuel system capable of 750whp on the corn juice. Since that is my over all goal when this rod is finished. lol. If i can stop there.
i dont know, im going to think it through this week and weigh my options and thoughts and see what i think is best. If i had another 500 bucks at this moment, i would just do a dual intank setup with rails, FPR, and return.
we'll see, ill keep everyone updated.
well, im not sure if i should just be happy for awhile on 5-6 lbs or go back to gas.
When i started this build, my goal was to get as close as possible to 500whp. Since i mimicked my build off a six speed goat (where i got this snail from) and he made over 500whp and over 600wtq. SO i wanted to get close.
It didnt happen on the corn juice. The power im making now was fun, for the first couple days (when running 4 or 5), But it doesnt plant me like i want it to.
So, do i go back to gas for while, or i do wait till i can afford to build a max effort fuel system capable of 750whp on the corn juice. Since that is my over all goal when this rod is finished. lol. If i can stop there.
i dont know, im going to think it through this week and weigh my options and thoughts and see what i think is best. If i had another 500 bucks at this moment, i would just do a dual intank setup with rails, FPR, and return.
we'll see, ill keep everyone updated.
Last edited by JAX04; 07-29-2010 at 06:10 PM.
07-11-2010, 10:12 AM
#129
TECH Regular
Mine collapses also, for the instant I hit the throttle from an idle until the air starts flowing...I noticed mine after I threw a belt off at the track last week and was testing the belt..I don't think it does that on the line break torqueing.
$500 won't be enough to do a full return fuel system. More like $800 last time I added up all the hose and fittings. I've been battling this for over a year. I took my tank out Sat and have it at the shop now getting a second Walbro y'ed into the OEM fuel line inside the tank. Should come in around $250. My first attempt was this external in-line Walbro on the fender. I'm running it now but it only raised my pressure from 38 to 49.
You're talking about switching back to gas to have more fuel pressure, but will you be able to get more power?
$500 won't be enough to do a full return fuel system. More like $800 last time I added up all the hose and fittings. I've been battling this for over a year. I took my tank out Sat and have it at the shop now getting a second Walbro y'ed into the OEM fuel line inside the tank. Should come in around $250. My first attempt was this external in-line Walbro on the fender. I'm running it now but it only raised my pressure from 38 to 49.
You're talking about switching back to gas to have more fuel pressure, but will you be able to get more power?
07-11-2010, 10:15 AM
#130
i have all the lines lying around. Its the rails, pump, and FPR that i dont have
and i guess i have no idea what kind of power im making at 7lbs with 24 degrees of timing on E85????
my tuner and i talked this morning, we are going to try a couple tuning ideas to help spool the little snail that could, and take her to the track. See what we can click off.
then decided whats next.
EDIT: ERIC, are you using an external FPR??
and i guess i have no idea what kind of power im making at 7lbs with 24 degrees of timing on E85????
my tuner and i talked this morning, we are going to try a couple tuning ideas to help spool the little snail that could, and take her to the track. See what we can click off.
then decided whats next.
EDIT: ERIC, are you using an external FPR??
07-11-2010, 11:29 AM
#133
just put a walbro 255 in the tank on top of the factory fuel pump
that what mine is and with both pumps on contentious i have 69psi and with it loading up 9s-10afrs my fuel pressure goes down to 64psi thats at 11psi of boost,the factory and a walbro should be good up to 550-600 on the tire on corn thats with 80lbs injectors
that what mine is and with both pumps on contentious i have 69psi and with it loading up 9s-10afrs my fuel pressure goes down to 64psi thats at 11psi of boost,the factory and a walbro should be good up to 550-600 on the tire on corn thats with 80lbs injectors
07-11-2010, 11:38 AM
#136
on my set up i have the factory wire that is supposed to turn the factory pump on it turns on a standalone relay that turns both pumps on together
that way you dont over work that little 16gauge wire for the factory pump
both of my pumps run fromw the relay to the pumps on 10 gauge wire
that way you dont over work that little 16gauge wire for the factory pump
both of my pumps run fromw the relay to the pumps on 10 gauge wire
07-11-2010, 11:55 AM
#138
your sig looks like you have a 04 im pretty sure all the buckets are the same, anyway you dont have to cut the bucket very much, there is a offset in the side of the bucket, that needs to be cut out a little deeper into the center,
it took about about a hour to do the cutting and putting the pumps back in the tank, it was very simple, good luck, and it only cost you around 135 for everything
it took about about a hour to do the cutting and putting the pumps back in the tank, it was very simple, good luck, and it only cost you around 135 for everything
07-11-2010, 12:29 PM
#140
Dual walbro 255 HP's are good for around 900 crank HP on E85 with 95lb/hr injectors through the factory returnless system in a F-body. I have a new fuel system that needs to go in next. -10 feed with a fuelab pump in the tank. using stock feed as return.