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Incon TT build... slowly but surely

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Old 04-24-2010, 11:29 PM
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[QUOTE=A Str8 Up G;13234562.. Idle is 1000 RPM too high,....[/QUOTE]

giant vacuum leak?
Old 04-24-2010, 11:32 PM
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well jones i hope we can get this thing 100%, the trans am is the only reason i come to work .... lol
Old 04-25-2010, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Frost
giant vacuum leak?
I checked and double checked everything, all the connections are on nice and tight. It did something new today... surged all the way to 4000 RPM I shut it down and haven't been able to get it to start up since. Wish you were in VB man, could really use some help troubleshooting this pig.

Originally Posted by 2ltrgsr
well jones i hope we can get this thing 100%, the trans am is the only reason i come to work .... lol
We'll be back at it again tomorrow then if you're coming to work homie Got a lot of bullshit to figure out.
Old 04-26-2010, 12:41 AM
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ill be there bro...we got this
Old 04-26-2010, 07:39 AM
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You have a nice setup, I'm sure you'll get everything worked out.
Old 05-01-2010, 05:58 PM
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Alright fellas, I'm stumped... car's doing some weird ****. I checked and re-checked every single ground in the car, changed every fuse, switched relays around like a shell game, and the car still won't start At first it would only start if I sprayed a little bit of starter fluid in the intake, but after that I couldn't get the car to start up on its own. But now it won't even start up with the starter fluid. I stopped using it to see if I can get it to build up pressure but it won't. Checked and re-checked every line, no leaks or nothing anywhere. It sounds like it's gonna fire up every once in a while but no bueno. The gauges have been acting all weird too. Every time I try to start the car up the needle on the fuel gauge goes straight to empty (I have about 3/4 tank of fresh gas, it's not empty trust me). When I take the key out of the ignition the MPH and Tach needles start flipping out all crazy too. ABS Inop and SES lights are on, but whenever I try to pull the codes my scanner says there aren't any. It had a P0103 (MAF output high) code on when it was running but after I deleted it that's when the car wouldn't start up. Oil pressure gauge is still pegged at 80. Disconnected it from the sensor and turned the key on, still pegged at 80. Harness looks fine and the wire's not pinched anywhere... I'd say the gauge itself was bad if it wasn't for all the other stupid electrical problems I'm having with the car. Tomorrow I'm gonna take out the ol' voltmeter and get me an electronics nerd to shoot wires for me, I'm dumb when it comes to electrical stuff I'm gonna post this up in general maintenance and see if anyone has any suggestions before I start throwing random parts at it and hoping it works. Has anyone else experienced some **** like this?
Old 05-01-2010, 07:38 PM
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did you check the grounds behind the heads?

I think there are 3 or 4 of them.

Also the grounds on the posts that bolt dash to the chassis. There are 2 grounds per side. I believe the dash uses one of those two posts for the grounds.
Old 05-01-2010, 08:41 PM
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The cars do weird stuff like needles go crazy like you are saying when battery is really low. If that is problem charge battery up first before you turn car on and try to start it.
It won't even boost if the battery is super run down.

Didn't read thru the entire thread but was wondering maybe about a few things. Think saw scavenger tanks or something. Now now sure why you would need those if you have decent pump and turbowerx are decent then would just run two lines off each turbo to yfitting like in 10 an or similar size lines. Then out from y or tfitting to 10 an into pump,out 10 an out of pump and into passenger side of oilpan. Block off drivers side inlet in pan and that would be that. Thats pretty much what buddy TOMz28 is doing and think our aps are simlar to your incon. After all think Dave inall designed both setups.
Now as said didn't read the whole thread and not sure why incon didn't gravity feed like aps did but the aps gravity feed only works so so anyway so scavenger pump is likely the answer. I have found an fittings that fit on my aps 20g centers they are 10 and and doing the setup described if necessary in stainless and 10 an lines. Should be fine. Tom just rigged his up for testing no an ,no stainless .
I would mount mine where old air pump used to be. Lots of room over there.

But will see if need it after LG turbos. Anyway maybe read thru your thread later on and see exactly what and why you are doing things the way you are.
And as said I guess the wierd gauge needle thing could be heads off on the back of the heads but my car did same thing when accidentally nearly totally killed the battery by leaving my wideband plugged into my lighter and have had it happen before on these cars.It did freak me first time I saw it do that. Thought had some crazy short.
Old 05-01-2010, 10:49 PM
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Definetly sounds like a low battery!
Old 05-02-2010, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by SScam68
did you check the grounds behind the heads?

I think there are 3 or 4 of them.

Also the grounds on the posts that bolt dash to the chassis. There are 2 grounds per side. I believe the dash uses one of those two posts for the grounds.
I only saw 2..... hmmm. I'll definitely check that out.

Originally Posted by jomomma
Definetly sounds like a low battery!
Battery has a full charge on it, that was the first thing I did before trying to start it... crazy ****! Gonna check out them grounds again like SScam68 was saying. I'm 99% positive that's where my problem is.

Originally Posted by MY99TAWS6
Didn't read thru the entire thread but was wondering maybe about a few things. Think saw scavenger tanks or something. Now now sure why you would need those if you have decent pump and turbowerx are decent then would just run two lines off each turbo to yfitting like in 10 an or similar size lines. Then out from y or tfitting to 10 an into pump,out 10 an out of pump and into passenger side of oilpan.
Dyaaaam man, you read my mind I have the tanks on temporarily, already ordered my -10 an stainless lines and fittings to delete the tanks. The turbowerx pump is 10 times better than the Tilton the Incon kit came with. Plus I don't like how low the passenger tank sits.... disaster waiting to happen.



I'm gonna give it the ol' college try again today gents, will let ya know whats up tonight
Old 05-02-2010, 05:10 PM
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I figured out the problem.... at the last minute. I got some of the little bullshit problems fixed, a few others still need some attention though. It should fire up tomorrow, cross your fingers...........
Old 05-02-2010, 08:28 PM
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Glad to hear that! Let me know when your up & running. I just finished my ls1 swap into my 85 c10. I had steve out today finishing up the tune. Its gonna make one hell of a work truck!
Old 05-03-2010, 07:26 PM
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That truck's gonna be sick Tony, I gotta take a trip down to come see it On a side note, did some more troubleshooting on the T/A today. Got my fuel pressure gauge hooked up and running, turns out I have ZERO fuel pressure. And when I turn the key on either very little fuel or nothing comes out of the regulator up front. Which kinda makes sense a little bit now that I think about it, me and Justin had to spray starter fluid in the damn thing to get it started, and once I turned it off I couldn't get it to start back up unless I sprayed it with starter fluid again. I'll post this in the fuel section and see if I can get an answer, but do any of yall think that my oil pressure / fuel problem is related? I'm completely lost on this one gentlemen, I feel like I should just set my car on fire and call it a day. But only after I get to drive it first. You know, kinda like a really hot girl that you wanna **** but she's not down. And when you finally get that ***, you beat it up like a man coming off a 5 year prison sentence and never call her back. That's how I feel about my car these days. Lol.
Old 05-03-2010, 07:46 PM
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The oil pressure wire feeds the gauges directly.

As for the fuel pressure, check the relays. I had my OEM one go bad on me. You can easily just get some wire and bypass it to see if it's the relay. You should hear the fuel pump turn on.
Old 05-03-2010, 10:49 PM
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The pump comes on, you can hear it prime when the key's on run and it kicks on when you're trying to start the car too. A little bit of fuel comes out of the regulator when I take the cap off, but not a lot like it's supposed to. I got a suggestion from a sponsor to check the wiring / hose connection at the pump so I'll give that a try tomorrow and see what's up.
Old 05-05-2010, 09:52 AM
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I want to delete my scavenge tanks too. Is this the Turboworx oil pump you guys are talking about?

http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...+Scavenge+Pump
Old 05-05-2010, 03:27 PM
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Can I run that pump safely with no catch cans with over 800 rwhp?
Old 05-05-2010, 06:20 PM
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Yeah man, that pump is a beast Just get rid of the Incon lines and run -10an lines and change the fittings at the turbos / oil tee. Way better clearance and looks a lot cleaner under the car. I'm still waiting on my stuff to come in though so I can do the swap
Old 05-06-2010, 04:48 PM
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What wastegate actuators are you using by the way?
Old 05-06-2010, 07:50 PM
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I got some 11 psi ones but I'm not using em... probably never will. The bracket I made for the passenger side actuator is hitting against the starter so I just got em wired shut for now until I change out my k-member in a few months. The engine can handle it I'm sure with the meth, but I'll just be easy on it and get it tuned up real nice Gotta get the damn thing to start first though. Lol.


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