Progressive boost for the street.
03-09-2010, 12:55 AM
#1
Progressive boost for the street. Has anyone setup their boost controller for each gear to get full traction with street tires?If so what controller are you using and do you like it?I'm talking about 700+RWHP cars running drag radials or any other sticky tire.
Thanks
Thanks
03-09-2010, 01:16 AM
#2
I'm only making a max of 800 flywheel horses and I can't get the thing to spin on concrete and from a dig with no burn out slipping clutch at 3 grand then going wot by the time the 67mm is spooled I have full traction and normally only see 5 to 8 psi in first, then it will see 16 or so in the rest of the gears.
I'm using eboost2, Haven't had to mess with boost by gear.
I'm running the stock ss wheels with 275/40/17 nittos.
I'm using eboost2, Haven't had to mess with boost by gear.
I'm running the stock ss wheels with 275/40/17 nittos.
03-09-2010, 02:13 AM
#4
Correct and 275/40/17 Nitto 555r drag radials. All suspension mods in sig, please note this is with my camaro. The corvette just has a bottle and it hooks fine from a roll with nitto's.
03-09-2010, 02:48 PM
#5
Sorry a bit unclear. You are running 275/40/17 nitto drags and you are ramping the boost on the eboost by which method..rpm???
The eboost looks like can do basically three methods..rpm which seems would make the boost delivery more like procharger or other centrifugal supers, time which I am going to try at track and gear based .I have seen think video on LG motorsports site or you tube or somewhere that had eboost2 and was using gear ramping pretty sure on six speed car.
I am pretty sure LG sells the options to do that,it is solenoid switches or something.
I thought it might be even simpler to set up gear based on auto trans but so far have posted a lot and no one has really stepped up and told me if they are running it with the auto or how to do it.
Also ams500 and ams 1000 are really good high end boost controllers with think pretty sophisticated ramping options but they have fugly displays and my eboost2 fits perfect in my 99 ta center vents.
Also no way could hook my car much better than middle of third on nittos when it was six speed last two seasons. And that was only on warmer weather day. I was running figure 600 to 650 rwhp about 7.5psi with 3.42 and then 3.54 gears but do have a built 408 and it is a torquey thing!
Since swapping to the 4l80 and the 3400 stall never really got a chance to see how things were hooking with nittos as they were getting pretty worn out.
I bought a set of firestone wide ovals for back daily driving more for handling,ride quality,
rain performance,etc and to maybe keep me from being tempted to play much on the street.
I also got et street radials though 295/45/17 to try out for track and some occasional street play.
If totally unhappy with the firestone wide ovals will go back to nitto,or possibly try new toyo drag radials or possibly run et street radials full time.
Also going to try ramping by rpm for street as said its easy to set up. Try time ramping fairly simple also. I do think gear ramping would best track and street though and if still had six speed likely would still pursue that option.
So please anyone that has done it with an auto and eboost 2 please share the info.
The eboost looks like can do basically three methods..rpm which seems would make the boost delivery more like procharger or other centrifugal supers, time which I am going to try at track and gear based .I have seen think video on LG motorsports site or you tube or somewhere that had eboost2 and was using gear ramping pretty sure on six speed car.
I am pretty sure LG sells the options to do that,it is solenoid switches or something.
I thought it might be even simpler to set up gear based on auto trans but so far have posted a lot and no one has really stepped up and told me if they are running it with the auto or how to do it.
Also ams500 and ams 1000 are really good high end boost controllers with think pretty sophisticated ramping options but they have fugly displays and my eboost2 fits perfect in my 99 ta center vents.
Also no way could hook my car much better than middle of third on nittos when it was six speed last two seasons. And that was only on warmer weather day. I was running figure 600 to 650 rwhp about 7.5psi with 3.42 and then 3.54 gears but do have a built 408 and it is a torquey thing!
Since swapping to the 4l80 and the 3400 stall never really got a chance to see how things were hooking with nittos as they were getting pretty worn out.
I bought a set of firestone wide ovals for back daily driving more for handling,ride quality,
rain performance,etc and to maybe keep me from being tempted to play much on the street.
I also got et street radials though 295/45/17 to try out for track and some occasional street play.
If totally unhappy with the firestone wide ovals will go back to nitto,or possibly try new toyo drag radials or possibly run et street radials full time.
Also going to try ramping by rpm for street as said its easy to set up. Try time ramping fairly simple also. I do think gear ramping would best track and street though and if still had six speed likely would still pursue that option.
So please anyone that has done it with an auto and eboost 2 please share the info.
03-09-2010, 02:57 PM
#7
Oh 396375 just wondering if the msd starter I shipped got to you yet?
And how about a build list for your ride.
Oh and guys another option I am looking at is a high end variable traction system from racelogic. I was thinking maybe could even get a company like lsx tune to make up some custom plug and play harnesses maybe. This setup is used on some high end super power stuff.
Fact cars like vipers have no factory traction control at all.
And how about a build list for your ride.
Oh and guys another option I am looking at is a high end variable traction system from racelogic. I was thinking maybe could even get a company like lsx tune to make up some custom plug and play harnesses maybe. This setup is used on some high end super power stuff.
Fact cars like vipers have no factory traction control at all.
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03-09-2010, 03:02 PM
#8
I read of your traction problems. If you watch my video below, I was on the stock ss wheels with the 275/40/17 nittos. Break boosting in second in first race at around 30 mph It was 33 degrees out and around midnight 
.
I put down 560rwhp/ 720 tq at 10 psi, I was running 16. I have adjusted all my suspension myself, angle finder and measuring tape always in the car. I can crawl under and adjust it. I think I have set around -.75 on the angle, since it doesnt have much flex with everything being the metal bushing.
I attempted to spin tires last night to do quick burn out at 12:30 am. I killed it dropping clutch at 5 grand
. I built boost and tried again and could hardly spin tires.
When I bought these tires for 275 at my door. I didn't expect them to hook so hard and be able to last way longer then the M/ts. I still have the Mt drag radials mounted on my prostars. They didn't hook as good on the street. What gives?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUYjc...layer_embedded
.I put down 560rwhp/ 720 tq at 10 psi, I was running 16. I have adjusted all my suspension myself, angle finder and measuring tape always in the car. I can crawl under and adjust it. I think I have set around -.75 on the angle, since it doesnt have much flex with everything being the metal bushing.
I attempted to spin tires last night to do quick burn out at 12:30 am. I killed it dropping clutch at 5 grand
. I built boost and tried again and could hardly spin tires.When I bought these tires for 275 at my door. I didn't expect them to hook so hard and be able to last way longer then the M/ts. I still have the Mt drag radials mounted on my prostars. They didn't hook as good on the street. What gives?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUYjc...layer_embedded
Last edited by 01Z28Camaro; 03-09-2010 at 03:07 PM.
03-09-2010, 03:26 PM
#10
Hmm so not sure whats up with your car. As said my car at 7.5psi about 600rwhp maybe 650rwhp no idea on torque with the 3.42s ,six speed and nittos would spin pretty much up to middle of third gear and if it was colder out even worse with frequent pucker up events happening even at 80mph occasionally.
I went to the dana 60 with 3.54 and of course even more gear and seemed about the same or bit worse for traction.
Lastly went to 4l80 with its 2.48 first gear bit lower than 1st on the t56 but now you have the 3400 yank stall and temps were so cold when got the trans swap done that really didn't get a chance to see how traction was. But also said the nittos were getting down so maybe a new set would be good thing to try out. What do you run for air pressure on the street with the nittos?
I found in past too that nittos sucked horribly at our local track on my various cars even my auto maybe 325 engine hp 96z. Et street radials worked much better on track.tried out buddies et street radials on street in his maybe 375hp 94z and they were spinning horribly forget the problem think we simply had to put the air around 20psi and then they dead hooked. So maybe you were running the et streets way too high or low.
We see guys like Mighty mouse running big power on the street and track through his et street radials fact 17s same one I run the 295/45/17 I think.
I was also wondering how much better the 315/35/17 nittos are and how much have to do to my car to get them to fit . On 10.5 inch rims.
Another tire option might be new toyo drag radials.
I went to the dana 60 with 3.54 and of course even more gear and seemed about the same or bit worse for traction.
Lastly went to 4l80 with its 2.48 first gear bit lower than 1st on the t56 but now you have the 3400 yank stall and temps were so cold when got the trans swap done that really didn't get a chance to see how traction was. But also said the nittos were getting down so maybe a new set would be good thing to try out. What do you run for air pressure on the street with the nittos?
I found in past too that nittos sucked horribly at our local track on my various cars even my auto maybe 325 engine hp 96z. Et street radials worked much better on track.tried out buddies et street radials on street in his maybe 375hp 94z and they were spinning horribly forget the problem think we simply had to put the air around 20psi and then they dead hooked. So maybe you were running the et streets way too high or low.
We see guys like Mighty mouse running big power on the street and track through his et street radials fact 17s same one I run the 295/45/17 I think.
I was also wondering how much better the 315/35/17 nittos are and how much have to do to my car to get them to fit . On 10.5 inch rims.
Another tire option might be new toyo drag radials.
03-09-2010, 03:33 PM
#11
Hmm so not sure whats up with your car. As said my car at 7.5psi about 600rwhp maybe 650rwhp no idea on torque with the 3.42s ,six speed and nittos would spin pretty much up to middle of third gear and if it was colder out even worse with frequent pucker up events happening even at 80mph occasionally.
I went to the dana 60 with 3.54 and of course even more gear and seemed about the same or bit worse for traction.
Lastly went to 4l80 with its 2.48 first gear bit lower than 1st on the t56 but now you have the 3400 yank stall and temps were so cold when got the trans swap done that really didn't get a chance to see how traction was. But also said the nittos were getting down so maybe a new set would be good thing to try out. What do you run for air pressure on the street with the nittos?
I found in past too that nittos sucked horribly at our local track on my various cars even my auto maybe 325 engine hp 96z. Et street radials worked much better on track.tried out buddies et street radials on street in his maybe 375hp 94z and they were spinning horribly forget the problem think we simply had to put the air around 20psi and then they dead hooked. So maybe you were running the et streets way too high or low.
We see guys like Mighty mouse running big power on the street and track through his et street radials fact 17s same one I run the 295/45/17 I think.
I was also wondering how much better the 315/35/17 nittos are and how much have to do to my car to get them to fit . On 10.5 inch rims.
Another tire option might be new toyo drag radials.
I went to the dana 60 with 3.54 and of course even more gear and seemed about the same or bit worse for traction.
Lastly went to 4l80 with its 2.48 first gear bit lower than 1st on the t56 but now you have the 3400 yank stall and temps were so cold when got the trans swap done that really didn't get a chance to see how traction was. But also said the nittos were getting down so maybe a new set would be good thing to try out. What do you run for air pressure on the street with the nittos?
I found in past too that nittos sucked horribly at our local track on my various cars even my auto maybe 325 engine hp 96z. Et street radials worked much better on track.tried out buddies et street radials on street in his maybe 375hp 94z and they were spinning horribly forget the problem think we simply had to put the air around 20psi and then they dead hooked. So maybe you were running the et streets way too high or low.
We see guys like Mighty mouse running big power on the street and track through his et street radials fact 17s same one I run the 295/45/17 I think.
I was also wondering how much better the 315/35/17 nittos are and how much have to do to my car to get them to fit . On 10.5 inch rims.
Another tire option might be new toyo drag radials.
The 315s are wider, will slow you down and aren't necessary. What do you have suspension wise? I'll be going to 245/40/17s if I even wear these out enough.
03-09-2010, 03:45 PM
#12
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i have 245/45/17's 555r's on mine i woulda bought something wider but i got them for 100dollars new and they look stupid cuzz there so skinny my rims are makeing them buldg out and they are wearing out faster than **** im guessing cuzz they dont hook well there always spinning... what gives? how r u hooking up so well with way more power
03-09-2010, 03:49 PM
#13
Honestly I woudn't bother with the 315 size nittos. To make matters worse, I was dead hooking with 62 psi in drivers side nitto, and 48 in passenside nitto. It took a ton of pressure to get them to pop on the bead on the rim. And I left the shop after getting them on the rims and came back next day and forget to check pressure. It wasn't till before that race that I checked the pressure and dropped to 25. But they hooked perfect at the high pressures.
The 315s are wider, will slow you down and aren't necessary. What do you have suspension wise? I'll be going to 245/40/17s if I even wear these out enough.
The 315s are wider, will slow you down and aren't necessary. What do you have suspension wise? I'll be going to 245/40/17s if I even wear these out enough.
but they do last pretty long time, do ok in rain as well and are reasonable quiet for road noise and not too bad for ride quailty.
But at least could have tried my nittos that were newer out not my older nearly done nittos that were on the 99TT.
Anyway sorry to OP about taking this off topic here. As for suspension its in the sig..have pretty much all the goodies..bmr adustable torque arm,
lower control arms and lca brackets. kyb adjustable set pretty hard I think in back now.Was thining to go to qa1 or strange maybe but my car is not tracked much at all so don't think will bother .
I am just having hard time believing you can hook up those nittos especially at lower temps.While our cars could have similar peak numbers could still have very different area under the curves though since we are talking twin tt and the 408 versus your smaller stock displacement and single turbo.
I have no clue yet if the auto will have made things much worse or better for traction. Still rather than tires more interested right now in the orginal posters questions. How the heck can I set up my eboost 2 to ramp by gear on my auto. And how well will it work ramping by rpm or time and how well would that variable race logic traction control possibly work.
03-09-2010, 04:25 PM
#14
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I'm with 01Z28Camaro on this one, I always scratch my head when people say they are blowing the tires loose in 3rd. Must be old rubber, cold wet roads or something....I'm putting down well over 600 rwhp/tq, trap about 130, and i can hook all day in 1st as long as i dont do a high rpm clutch dump.
From a roll in 1st i can lay down some good rubber but in 2nd its a non-issue, i hook and go. I get some spinning on the top of 1st and 2nd consistently but it's minor.
Using a Greddy Profec BII (no ramp / per gear boost adjustment) I run 305/35/18 MT DR's on my DD. Sporting just about everything you can imagine from the guys at BMR, UMI, Global West. Get your suspension/tires dialed and get all that power to hook instead of pulling HP.
From a roll in 1st i can lay down some good rubber but in 2nd its a non-issue, i hook and go. I get some spinning on the top of 1st and 2nd consistently but it's minor.
Using a Greddy Profec BII (no ramp / per gear boost adjustment) I run 305/35/18 MT DR's on my DD. Sporting just about everything you can imagine from the guys at BMR, UMI, Global West. Get your suspension/tires dialed and get all that power to hook instead of pulling HP.
03-09-2010, 06:03 PM
#15
Crap..I sold my nearly new pair of nittos that had on my 96z off as for that car got tired of them picking up every pebble and stone and all the racket they make ,they also like to pick up every roofing nail,piece of metal..
but they do last pretty long time, do ok in rain as well and are reasonable quiet for road noise and not too bad for ride quailty.
But at least could have tried my nittos that were newer out not my older nearly done nittos that were on the 99TT.
Anyway sorry to OP about taking this off topic here. As for suspension its in the sig..have pretty much all the goodies..bmr adustable torque arm,
lower control arms and lca brackets. kyb adjustable set pretty hard I think in back now.Was thining to go to qa1 or strange maybe but my car is not tracked much at all so don't think will bother .
I am just having hard time believing you can hook up those nittos especially at lower temps.While our cars could have similar peak numbers could still have very different area under the curves though since we are talking twin tt and the 408 versus your smaller stock displacement and single turbo.
I have no clue yet if the auto will have made things much worse or better for traction. Still rather than tires more interested right now in the orginal posters questions. How the heck can I set up my eboost 2 to ramp by gear on my auto. And how well will it work ramping by rpm or time and how well would that variable race logic traction control possibly work.
but they do last pretty long time, do ok in rain as well and are reasonable quiet for road noise and not too bad for ride quailty.
But at least could have tried my nittos that were newer out not my older nearly done nittos that were on the 99TT.
Anyway sorry to OP about taking this off topic here. As for suspension its in the sig..have pretty much all the goodies..bmr adustable torque arm,
lower control arms and lca brackets. kyb adjustable set pretty hard I think in back now.Was thining to go to qa1 or strange maybe but my car is not tracked much at all so don't think will bother .
I am just having hard time believing you can hook up those nittos especially at lower temps.While our cars could have similar peak numbers could still have very different area under the curves though since we are talking twin tt and the 408 versus your smaller stock displacement and single turbo.
I have no clue yet if the auto will have made things much worse or better for traction. Still rather than tires more interested right now in the orginal posters questions. How the heck can I set up my eboost 2 to ramp by gear on my auto. And how well will it work ramping by rpm or time and how well would that variable race logic traction control possibly work.
I have the Spohn 400 dollar drag bar, I put a 1 and 1/2 inches pre load on the right side so it doesn't squat as bad. It rides really stiff from this but the end result is a car that doesn't go left when it squats.
As far as boost ramping, I using the boost setting at 100 percent, sensitivity is at 15 and gate pressure at 14 psi. I feels like its pulling wheels in 2nd. Pretty nice feeling and when you walk around the car, you don't expect it to hook like that at all. But a look under the car you see the 12 bolt and a huge sway bar.
What is your pinion angle set to? You take the driveshaft degree and add to the rear end housing degree. You can get a magnetic angle finder for around 10 dollars at a hardware store.
03-09-2010, 06:27 PM
#16
I actually had stock torque arm when had the six speed and just put on the adjustable since had the 4l80 swap done week before put car away it was mid november and roads were very cold so cant' tell really how car will hook and was on pretty worn down nittos by end of season.
We set it think 1 degree and know how to set it. I have adjustable shocks but they are not set soft at all front but pretty hard and pretty hard back. Equal settings right now. They are just kyb agx not the best for drag racing like qa1 or strange ,etc.
My sway bar is just a street back sway not a drag one . My car is not optimized for drag thats for sure. That was not its main goal.Anyway guess we should take our further discussions to pm as are really straying off the main question on the thread.
We set it think 1 degree and know how to set it. I have adjustable shocks but they are not set soft at all front but pretty hard and pretty hard back. Equal settings right now. They are just kyb agx not the best for drag racing like qa1 or strange ,etc.
My sway bar is just a street back sway not a drag one . My car is not optimized for drag thats for sure. That was not its main goal.Anyway guess we should take our further discussions to pm as are really straying off the main question on the thread.
03-09-2010, 07:01 PM
#17
Oh 396375 just wondering if the msd starter I shipped got to you yet?
And how about a build list for your ride.
Oh and guys another option I am looking at is a high end variable traction system from racelogic. I was thinking maybe could even get a company like lsx tune to make up some custom plug and play harnesses maybe. This setup is used on some high end super power stuff.
Fact cars like vipers have no factory traction control at all.
And how about a build list for your ride.
Oh and guys another option I am looking at is a high end variable traction system from racelogic. I was thinking maybe could even get a company like lsx tune to make up some custom plug and play harnesses maybe. This setup is used on some high end super power stuff.
Fact cars like vipers have no factory traction control at all.
I have a 2000 C5.Forged 403,317 heads,3600 stall Vigilanti and TTi twin turbos.Last year I had the stock LS1 with a single T70.The car dynoed 467 RWHP but may have made a little more after I got things sorted out.It ran 11.22 @ 127 on a cool November night full street trim with Nitto DRs.During the summer the car would spin the Nittos from a roll in 1st and dead hook into 2nd and 3rd.At night time with cooler temps it would kill the Nittos in 1st and 2nd.I could only manage 1.80 60' at the track with stock suspension.This year I will be getting some adjustable coil overs.The Vettes really like them.I really like the Nittos as a street tire but I'm going with MT DRs this year.I'm not counting on a lot of traction.Hence this thread.I've mentioned this thread on a couple of forums and I'm surprized how few people are ramping their boost for the street.I was seriously considering the Racelogic system but couldn't find any Vette guys that were running it.The Viper guys use it.Some like it and some doen't.It's a lot of scratch to put out and take a chance on whether it works or not.I have a Blitz controller but I still haven't totally figured it out.It has a lot of options.Some of these controllers have settings for 3 or 4 different programs.It sure would be cool to have a day and night program and another for kill after you've warmed up the tires.
Thanks for the comments.
03-09-2010, 07:19 PM
#18
Sorry to drag your thread off topic so much. But traction and tires and suspension.all that stuff does relate a bit right?
Maybe we have more trouble hooking as we both have 40x engines. Obviously more torque and power down lower and more area under the curves. And not sure how vettes are known to hook compared to f bodies. Also thought you had very good traction control setups in the vettes?? I didn't even get the stock f body traction control. At time thought didn't need it but now could use it ,for safety when weather is not the best although don't drive my car through nov till april but still weather can get ugly fast even near those put away and take car out times.
Ramping does seem like a great thing to try. My eboost is super quick to set up for rpm ramping. You simply hook up rpm wire and you are ready for that. I have driven and ridden in a few procharged cars and it would be similar in power delivery to one with ramping by rpm. The time based option on my eboost also might be good at track,not so good on street. As you have to reset timer with button and start timer with button. External buttons to the eboost it looks like .I still think best overall would be that gear based option which my programmer can do. And as said pretty sure LG motorsports can set up the trans to do it. At least for manual cars. I have seen a video demonstarting it in action.
Also that racelogic system sounds interesting but as you said its not cheap.And its not that plug and play ,it would be nice to have a nice clean plug and play harness for it.
And its a bit of a wild card with some saying it works great and some saying it didn't work so great.
Other traction control options are to get a standalone with them built in like big stuff 3 ,etc but they are very pricey,and have their other pros and cons ,mostly to me cons for mostly street cars.
I also bought as said some 295/45/17 et street radials after seeing some guys get great results including my hero Mighty Mouse. If he can run the times he does on them they have potential and if you watch his video of his car ripping around on the track and street seems they work just fine.
Just not sure I want/need to run et street radials 24/7. They are death in rain, don't last long at all, ride not the best and handle not great. So nittos or high end street tires might still be better choice for daily driving. I still hate how the nittos pick up all those pebbles drives me nuts sometimes all the racket! But when you do hook on them and waste some other car on pure street tires it can be really fun feeling.
Maybe we have more trouble hooking as we both have 40x engines. Obviously more torque and power down lower and more area under the curves. And not sure how vettes are known to hook compared to f bodies. Also thought you had very good traction control setups in the vettes?? I didn't even get the stock f body traction control. At time thought didn't need it but now could use it ,for safety when weather is not the best although don't drive my car through nov till april but still weather can get ugly fast even near those put away and take car out times.
Ramping does seem like a great thing to try. My eboost is super quick to set up for rpm ramping. You simply hook up rpm wire and you are ready for that. I have driven and ridden in a few procharged cars and it would be similar in power delivery to one with ramping by rpm. The time based option on my eboost also might be good at track,not so good on street. As you have to reset timer with button and start timer with button. External buttons to the eboost it looks like .I still think best overall would be that gear based option which my programmer can do. And as said pretty sure LG motorsports can set up the trans to do it. At least for manual cars. I have seen a video demonstarting it in action.
Also that racelogic system sounds interesting but as you said its not cheap.And its not that plug and play ,it would be nice to have a nice clean plug and play harness for it.
And its a bit of a wild card with some saying it works great and some saying it didn't work so great.
Other traction control options are to get a standalone with them built in like big stuff 3 ,etc but they are very pricey,and have their other pros and cons ,mostly to me cons for mostly street cars.
I also bought as said some 295/45/17 et street radials after seeing some guys get great results including my hero Mighty Mouse. If he can run the times he does on them they have potential and if you watch his video of his car ripping around on the track and street seems they work just fine.
Just not sure I want/need to run et street radials 24/7. They are death in rain, don't last long at all, ride not the best and handle not great. So nittos or high end street tires might still be better choice for daily driving. I still hate how the nittos pick up all those pebbles drives me nuts sometimes all the racket! But when you do hook on them and waste some other car on pure street tires it can be really fun feeling.
03-09-2010, 08:50 PM
#19
NP on straying of this thread.The traction control on the Vettes is more of an on off thing.If it did work like the Racelogic is supposed to work then Vettes would have one hell of a serious rep amongst the street race crowd.They leave well at lower power levels but are just the same as any high HP car when big power is added.One good thing about Fbodys is they have a straight axle and can easily accept a 4L80E which makes them less breakable then most Vettes.I have over $6000 in my trans and rear and there is still a good chance that either one will break.Add a trans brake and it is almost guarantied
