Machine shop says a 408 isnt good for boost...
#21
Launching!
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You could always come over here.... Also just bought a pimp new tool. A Kent Moore digital torque angle and ft. lbs. meter. Don't listen to some of these shops say up here. Also use Midtown Machine. I trust them with all my work. Talking about a 408...Need a Lunati 4" crank. I will give you a good deal.
Last edited by chevybowtie; 03-23-2010 at 11:27 PM.
#25
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You could always come over here.... Also just bought a pimp new tool. A Kent Moore digital torque angle and ft. lbs. meter. Don't listen to some of these shops say up here. Also use Midtown Machine. I trust them with all my work. Talking about a 408...Need a Lunati 4" crank. I will give you a good deal.
#26
9 Second Club
#27
#30
The higher rpms will allow you to pull longer then the person your racing. He has to shift at ~6500rpm And you don't have to shift in tell 9,000rpm How do you think that will efect the race?
#31
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I will not, nor will I ever advise anyone to build a 4" stroke LS motor unless it has a longer than factory sleeve (or an LS7 block). I know that there are millions out there running great but I have lots of first hand experience with the problems associated with it.
#32
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There are a number of 364/370ci motors on here that have run low 8's with stock blocks/cranks and good rods/pistons. Hell most run out of the box CnC'd heads.
Save the money by running a stock crank and getting a good set of heads with a thick deck. I have a 364ci forged iron shortblock (stock crank with doweled/pinned caps to prevent cap walk) and plan to run either TFS 220cc as cast heads ($1600) or their CnC'd version which is about $800 more. The limiting factor to power will now be keeping the heads sealed/gaskets from leaking due to the 4bolt design which is around the 1000rwhp mark. 1000rwhp/1000rwtq in a 2800lbs RX-7 should be plenty though
Save the money by running a stock crank and getting a good set of heads with a thick deck. I have a 364ci forged iron shortblock (stock crank with doweled/pinned caps to prevent cap walk) and plan to run either TFS 220cc as cast heads ($1600) or their CnC'd version which is about $800 more. The limiting factor to power will now be keeping the heads sealed/gaskets from leaking due to the 4bolt design which is around the 1000rwhp mark. 1000rwhp/1000rwtq in a 2800lbs RX-7 should be plenty though
#33
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There are a number of 364/370ci motors on here that have run low 8's with stock blocks/cranks and good rods/pistons. Hell most run out of the box CnC'd heads.
Save the money by running a stock crank and getting a good set of heads with a thick deck. I have a 364ci forged iron shortblock (stock crank with doweled/pinned caps to prevent cap walk) and plan to run either TFS 220cc as cast heads ($1600) or their CnC'd version which is about $800 more. The limiting factor to power will now be keeping the heads sealed/gaskets from leaking due to the 4bolt design which is around the 1000rwhp mark. 1000rwhp/1000rwtq in a 2800lbs RX-7 should be plenty though
Save the money by running a stock crank and getting a good set of heads with a thick deck. I have a 364ci forged iron shortblock (stock crank with doweled/pinned caps to prevent cap walk) and plan to run either TFS 220cc as cast heads ($1600) or their CnC'd version which is about $800 more. The limiting factor to power will now be keeping the heads sealed/gaskets from leaking due to the 4bolt design which is around the 1000rwhp mark. 1000rwhp/1000rwtq in a 2800lbs RX-7 should be plenty though
#34
Staging Lane
Machine shop in AK
I live in Anchorage (and have my whole life) the machine shop in question here I think is ADB. I use them and trust them for my motors. Having said that, they have limited experience with LS motors. They do however build sick, 1000hp N/A motors that run on pump gas, but they are old school. One of the newer guys there is a S.A.M. graduate and worked on the orange camaro that broke the N/A record. If they told you a 408 ci wouldnt be the best for your build there is prob a reason. Im not saying that a 408 wouldnt be a good boost motor, you just need more boost or a bigger turbo. I had my motor dynod' there but it is a carb setup 347 n/a. I am very happy with the results though (500hp and 475 TQ AT 6100RPM). If you want to tune your motor there with efi you need a laptop and software, but they are willing to help.
#35
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It wasnt ADB it was another shop I was suggested to look at. I called this shop just to get a quote to assemble a motor and do the machine work needed and they started telling me that a stroked motor isnt good for boost so I thought Id ask for clarification. I still trust them to build a motor, I just dont want to have to argue with a shop about what I want done.
Even though theres only a handful of AK guys on here, Im not going to name the shop I talked to. Ive heard lots of good things about their motor building abilities.
Even though theres only a handful of AK guys on here, Im not going to name the shop I talked to. Ive heard lots of good things about their motor building abilities.
#36
I will not, nor will I ever advise anyone to build a 4" stroke LS motor unless it has a longer than factory sleeve (or an LS7 block). I know that there are millions out there running great but I have lots of first hand experience with the problems associated with it.
I wonder if the machine shop just doesn't like 4" stroke cranks in 6.0l blocks and it has nothing to do with boost. The machine shop I use and trust doesn't like them either. Like Shawn said you can get short height pistons and do some careful radius work to the bottoms of the sleeve to help things. But, you will have more money in the custom pistons then if you went with some other form of power adder like more turbo. If it is a track engine that gets torn down every winter and you don't mind replacing pistons once a year then cool. But I am looking to put 10,000 miles a year on on mine and keep it hopefully together for a least 3 years. For me stay stock stroke saves a lot of cost and issues with durability. I think I can meet my goal (run 9s and drive it there) with a stock stroke engine and a single turbo.
#37
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I read this thread and laugh sometimes.Lot's of stuff said that just doesn't make any sense.Oh well,we'll just keep doing it wrong.Big cube,long stroke,low rpm,fast *** engines.
#38
Staging Lane
You shouldnt have to argue, buy the parts you want in your motor and take it to ADB. They really know their stuff. Dave and his guys have been around for a really long time, and they are drag racers so going fast is what they do. Just my 2 cents. Where ever you take your motor just build what you really want because changes take up time and more money.
Last edited by AKz06; 03-25-2010 at 03:02 AM. Reason: removed quote
#40
reguardless of the CI a motor built right and put together with the right parts is going to make power. why wouldnt a built 408 with plenty of boost and a good set of heads and cam to flow it make retarded power? its all in what you put in it the determines whether or not its a good "boost motor" because any motor has the potential to be a "boost motor". thats like sayin a built lsx 454ci with plenty of cubes to turn twins or even a big single and tons of boost would be slow compared to its n/a counterpart it just doesnt make any sense. as long as thought is put into the parts being used and where you want to go in the motor whether its n/a or otherwise its gonna run excelent but thats just my 2 cents