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Minor Updates on the 106MM SS

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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 01:46 PM
  #41  
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Looks very good, would love to see some track results.
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 03:27 PM
  #42  
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very nice, keep us posted good luck
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Fireball
fortunately for your crank...you'll be limited in power by the heads' ability to seal (what head gaskets you going to try?)

no way would I want to push that crank to the capability of that 106mm
Going to be using the MLS from GM. We have run lines from the heads through the rad to help.

A lot of the stuff we are trying -- I just hope all this is goes to **** on the first weekend. I don't have the big money some people do (not that you do, I'm just saying money is tight) or else I would have a much much better engine set-up.

On the injectors -- I'm a rookie at this stuff; Joey at Excessive is doing the build. He has done a lot of build around here, but this will be the fastest of the shop cars. Best is out of a Mustang, running twin 76's on E-98. Full body, weights 3800+, best run is 8.72 at 169.

It's a big wait and see game.

David
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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 08:25 PM
  #44  
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More pictures of the engine bay and interior









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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 09:44 PM
  #45  
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What size radiator do you have in that thing?
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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 10:04 PM
  #46  
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Lookin killer under the hood! Looks like we will both attempt to see how far some AFRs will seal this year. Your single is a much bigger gun than my twins though!
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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 10:40 PM
  #47  
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David if it wouldnt be too much trouble could you snap some more pics of the downpipe and where it exits the car? im toying with different DP routing ideas and looking at everybodys setups for inspiration. although mines a street car with a single 76 lol
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 05:25 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Phil99vette
What size radiator do you have in that thing?
Phil not sure of the exact size. I got it from a rad shop in Iowa that specializes in rad of any size you want. It is a double core, double flow - supposedly it circulates twice through both cores before it goes back through the block. Not sure how it works. I have had it for 5 years and seems to work great. I've never had a problem with over heating -- YET. Never seen a radiator lay down before, and we have not tested it yet. Another - I guess we'll see if it works. We had no other place to put it. The water pump is not you 'normal' pump either.

I'll try to get a picture of the down pipe "soon".

David
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 12:59 PM
  #49  
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Very very nice!!!! It's got a nice clean monochromatic look to it. Keep up the good work and can't wait to see what it'll do....


-Dave
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 06:53 PM
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he has this radiator
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-A...Q5fAccessories


i will be running the same one, but my will be tilted a little (instead of flat like his).
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 07:07 PM
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Takes for the post Drew. Who knew that they are on E-bay now. Didn't work on the SS today. If things go right, we are hoping to start powering up the different electrical systems tomorrow

David
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 07:27 PM
  #52  
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More wiring done.. getting so close. Sensor test went perfect. Everything came on line.

Here's a couple pictures as promised. -- pretty crappy but they are off my cp

David
Attached Thumbnails Minor Updates on the 106MM SS-paint0146.jpg   Minor Updates on the 106MM SS-paint0147.jpg   Minor Updates on the 106MM SS-paint148.jpg  
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Navy David SS
Going to be using the MLS from GM. We have run lines from the heads through the rad to help.

A lot of the stuff we are trying -- I just hope all this is goes to **** on the first weekend. I don't have the big money some people do (not that you do, I'm just saying money is tight) or else I would have a much much better engine set-up.

On the injectors -- I'm a rookie at this stuff; Joey at Excessive is doing the build. He has done a lot of build around here, but this will be the fastest of the shop cars. Best is out of a Mustang, running twin 76's on E-98. Full body, weights 3800+, best run is 8.72 at 169.

It's a big wait and see game.

David
I ran MLS with o-rings at first and it worked ok, switched to a double o-ring copper and the **** never leaks now(water or boost)
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 01:29 AM
  #54  
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thanks David! are you worried about melting the bumper at all from the heat off the DP? how loud is it when the car is idleing or part throttle?

im thinkin about routing my DP the exact same way but its a street car so im a lil nervous lol
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 06:17 AM
  #55  
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Phil, what brand are you using - double o-ring?

Cars - we have yet to fire up the car. No idea how loud it will be. We'll see on the fender melting.

David

Last edited by Navy David SS; Apr 6, 2010 at 06:09 AM.
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 06:10 AM
  #56  
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Got my chute line in .. they sent wrong one. I'll have the correct one by weeks end. Seems like everything has to be ordered twice.

David
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 09:11 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Navy David SS
Got my chute line in .. they sent wrong one. I'll have the correct one by weeks end. Seems like everything has to be ordered twice.

David
Welcome to the world of racing.
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 01:36 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Navy David SS
Phil, what brand are you using - double o-ring?

Cars - we have yet to fire up the car. No idea how loud it will be. We'll see on the fender melting.

David
We're using a chunk of copper for a headgasket, its ******* thick and double o-rings. I've ran it to 42# off boost and it went 163 @ 9:8:1 A/F, tuned the boost back to 35 and leaned it out to 11:1 and it went 164 and change. It shows no signs of leaking at 42#. We'll turn it up to 47-50 with the new changes we made.
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 04:15 PM
  #59  
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Holy crap Phil - 47-50lbs of boost. Looks like your 25.5 cages will need to be updated.

What do you mean "chuck" of copper?

David
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 07:41 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by 87silverbullet
Welcome to the world of racing.
its not his first rodeo. actually it is his 3rd make over of his car.
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