12psi on a stock block?
Is 12psi + H2O/Alky on a stock block a mistake?
Any advice would be appreciated guys.
Mike
I hope to hit only 10psi with the pulley combo I have but it may be more like 12 since I don't have intercoolers.
rob is running 11psi and making over 600rwhp and it's holding together so far on an engine with 120,000 miles no less.
before you go cogs you may want to see how well my setup works. I am using a pretty cool spring tensioner setup from sd-concepts. they have a 6 rib and 8 rib version. the guy is making 1300 hp in his procharged dodge charger with this setup so I think it should work pretty well
As far as longevity, well I have plans for a new block. but what with trying to buy a house I seriously doubt I'd have the cash to do both this year. So if the motor dies this year the Hawk will sit till next year when I can afford to do her right. So I'd like it to last at least a year, maybe two. Just till the new motor is done and ready to be installed.
I really don't fully understand how H2O/alky works. is it injected like N2O and used to cool everything down? Unless the alky is compressed how effective can it be in cooling? Just always thought water and fuel were bad.
As for spring loaded belt, I'm interested and had heard of it, but don't know too many people that use it. The less money I have to spend the better.
But it woiuld be nice to get this car solidly above the 500 rwhp mark and start making a run for the 10s.Mike
water/alky is misted into the intake. the mix acts as a cooler, extra octane (so to speak) and fuel.
this in turn alows you to run more boost and timing without detonation.
works very well. so well in fact it will be my only method of "intercooling". I have an ATI head unit but I am piecing together everything else and not using their intercooler setup.
I think with an alky kit and sd's 6 rib spring tensioner setup you would meet your goals easily. Even without the alky you could do it if your only gunning for around 500rwhp.
As for alky/water, here is the basic deal.
The water evaporates in the charged air and removes some heat, which helps control ignition. Most of it is still around in the chamber on ignition and it robs some of the BTUs that you want to make power. In the end, you end up pretty much breaking even (after advancing timing). This is why people add alcohol to the mix. It is actually a fuel so it burns and does not rob as many BTUs on ignition.
In the case of pure methanol, you get a really nice effect. Methanol burns well at really rich ratios (something like 8:1 don't quote me). So you can add the methanol and get the chamber cooling effect of running rich without the negatives normally associated with running overly rich. Think of it as being able to run your motor at 9:1 without loosing the power that would normally be associated with that. So more fuel goes in, but with the same resultant A/F in the end.
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Kyle
it won't be the end of the world if it doesn't make it but it's one of my goals for the car.
if it does go, oh well.... it won't cost that much to get back on the road with a forged setup since my buddy and I can build the motor.

Any pics or advice, including price and where to get it would be appreciated.
Thanks guys,
Mike



