Throwing drive belt......which Tensioner ?
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 608
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From: New Zealand
Throwing drive belt......which Tensioner ? Started having trouble keeping the drive belt on,
What tensioner are you turbo guys running ?
Setup-
Holden Commodore (same layout as 04 GTO)
single TC78 @ 17 psi
forged 383
M6 trans
Mezier electric WP
25% underdrive pulley
The stock tensioner just cant keep up with the rapid excelleration then getting off it to shift gears..
So what are you running, pro's and con's of a solid tensioner verses heavy duty spring loaded ?
What tensioner are you turbo guys running ?
Setup-
Holden Commodore (same layout as 04 GTO)
single TC78 @ 17 psi
forged 383
M6 trans
Mezier electric WP
25% underdrive pulley
The stock tensioner just cant keep up with the rapid excelleration then getting off it to shift gears..
So what are you running, pro's and con's of a solid tensioner verses heavy duty spring loaded ?
That's a common problem and one I recently experienced first hand. They make an aftermarket solid tensioner (no spring) that's supposed to solve this problem. Katech has one for $200 and CompCams just came out with one for $150. I'm getting the Comp one as it comes with a pulley as well.
Worked perfectly and my belt doesn't jump ribs anymore. Only cost $14 too 
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Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 608
Likes: 0
From: New Zealand
That's a common problem and one I recently experienced first hand. They make an aftermarket solid tensioner (no spring) that's supposed to solve this problem. Katech has one for $200 and CompCams just came out with one for $150. I'm getting the Comp one as it comes with a pulley as well.
anyone with real life feedback on the solid tensioners long term ??
I changed my tensioner pulley to the high wall pulley and haven't thrown the belt since its a gates part number 38009, sorry dont have pics right now, but if you need them I will take some, I had to very lightly shave the back of the pulley it barely rubbed the tensioner, another thing is the pulley is a hair larger so it pulls the tensioner down just a little and puts a little extra pressure on the belt. Mine works like a charm...
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Also there are marks on the tensioner body that the line on the actual arm of the tensioner should be between, if its not your belt is too long or too short, if you are throwing the belt you could also try a belt the next size down in length... But either way I highly suggest the pulley mod, 1. It holds the belt on better 2. those bearings wear out/get dry and noisey so its good to change the pulleys after a while anyway
Oh and since it pulls down the tensioner a hair it kinda creates the high tension sprung tensioner you were talking about, and to get one all you have to do is go to the local parts store and ask them if they have a Gates 38009, if not ask them to cross the part number to whatever brand they do carry..
Oh and since it pulls down the tensioner a hair it kinda creates the high tension sprung tensioner you were talking about, and to get one all you have to do is go to the local parts store and ask them if they have a Gates 38009, if not ask them to cross the part number to whatever brand they do carry..
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I'm glad I found this thread. I'm having issues on my GTO. One rib on my belt completely tore off and wrapped around some sh*t. I need an actual tentioner as mine has too much play in it. Can anyone tell me the cheapest replacement option just for the tentioner including the Buick pulley?
That's a common problem and one I recently experienced first hand. They make an aftermarket solid tensioner (no spring) that's supposed to solve this problem. Katech has one for $200 and CompCams just came out with one for $150. I'm getting the Comp one as it comes with a pulley as well.
The KATECH solid tensioner is actually $119 and it now comes with a pulley FWIW. Check out the site. Also have never heard of solid tensioners being hard on bearings as long as you adjust them correctly from the get go. The loss of HP would be minimal if any. Again if its adjusted right from the start there shouldnt be much difference besides not having to deal with thrown belts.
The KATECH solid tensioner is actually $119 and it now comes with a pulley FWIW. Check out the site. Also have never heard of solid tensioners being hard on bearings as long as you adjust them correctly from the get go. The loss of HP would be minimal if any. Again if its adjusted right from the start there shouldnt be much difference besides not having to deal with thrown belts.
But who knows......guess thats up to op
X2, and besides for what its worth there is a much cheaper manual available...
Ill dig up the link
well nevermind the link is dead, but the guy was a sponsor and selling billet tensioner's for 75$
Last edited by 00pooterSS; Apr 8, 2010 at 11:50 AM.
Well the same could be said for alot of things in a high hp car. Personally I overbuild everything. And theres the fact that the 119 dollar tensioner looks alot better than the 14 dollar one! ha asthetics sometimes win out. To each his own.
THe Katech tensioner is the way to go. Its not the horsepower of your car that throws the belts. The factory tensioners have a resonance in the spring due to the fact that they are mounted off by themselves on the motor. it vibrates at certain higher rpms and will actually bounce and toss the belt.
The Katech, or any other tensioner wont do this because they dont bounce. Katech instructions explicitly state to torque it to a specific torque, which is the same as factory, hence no bearing wear or increased load on the motor.
The Katech, or any other tensioner wont do this because they dont bounce. Katech instructions explicitly state to torque it to a specific torque, which is the same as factory, hence no bearing wear or increased load on the motor.
when mine started throwing the belt I just got a new stock tensioner and the pulley from another GM car (can't remember which one but if you search you will find it) that had a taller lip on the outside of the pulley to help hold the belt on and haven't had any problems since.
A lot of people have resolved the issue by simply just replacing the tensioner. I wanted the high wall pulley new tensioner or not, but the pulley is cheaper so I tried it first, I haven't heard the belt squeal and it hasn't jumped since the new high wall pulley.
My stock tensioner with better pulley keeps belt from jumping ribs. It also takes up slack in belt ( belt stretches) as the motor turns at high rpms.
I' m all for function
but my car still looks good 
Had my Katech for 8 years when I threw my first belt ater my 427ci was installed and I wacked the throttle. Its been great and the belt thats on my engine now is also 8 years old has not stretched a single millimeter.
They don't only keep belts from bouncing off when you wack the throttle, they greatly lengthen the life of the belt because it doesn't stretch from that bouncing factory tensioner.
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They don't only keep belts from bouncing off when you wack the throttle, they greatly lengthen the life of the belt because it doesn't stretch from that bouncing factory tensioner.
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Last edited by LS6427; Apr 12, 2010 at 05:07 PM.
SIMPLE......The Katech tensioner does not allow the belt to ounce AT ALL, therefore the belt cannot stretch. My tensioner is set in the same position it was set back in 2002 and the belt is still in that same spot and is just as tight as it was in 2002. Each time over 8 years that I had to remove the belt for maintenance or whatever....I put it righ back to the same exact spot and tighten the bolt.
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Im glad it works for you, but I solved my belt jumping problem with the $14 pulley.
Doesnt the belt still stretch some just from spinning fast
Centrifugal force