Buick Tensioner Pulley Swap: PICS!!!
07-15-2007, 10:54 PM
#1
Buick Tensioner Pulley Swap: PICS!!! I saw this here last week and decided to try it.
All you'll need is the following:
Dayco Pulley PN 89009 or equivalent. The car I looked it up for was a '00 Buick Regal Supercharged, it is the supercharger idler pulley. It is a 6 rib 76mm with a large flange to hold the belt on.
15mm socket and ratchet.
Dremel tool.
About five minutes of your time.
Of course, you need to first remove your belt, take off the stock pulley.
Here's the difference between the two pulleys. Buick on left, and stock on the right:
A different shot, with the stocker on top of the Buick:
And a side-by-side comparision, to see how much deeper the flange is:
You will need to clearance the pulley ribs so that they don't hit the tensioner. This is easily accomplished in about a minute with a Dremel tool. I did both sides, so that the washer for the bolt sat flat.
Here is an installed pic of the pulley, boring, I know:
I hope that this will provide a good alternative to the Katech tensioner for those who don't want to spend the money. I personally don't need the extra flange and diameter for high-rpms, but rather to keep the short 52.5" belt that I use to bypass the PS pump from getting thrown when I use it.
On a side note, my factory tensioner must have lost some of its tension, because my temperatures are approximately 10 degrees lower than they were, so perhaps the belt was slipping on the water pump pulley? I'm going to the track this coming Friday, so I'll report back with whether or not the pulley helped the throwing problem or the fact that my temperature got higher quicker with the short belt.
Thanks, Rabidbandit and 8GTOKLR for the idea.
All you'll need is the following:
Dayco Pulley PN 89009 or equivalent. The car I looked it up for was a '00 Buick Regal Supercharged, it is the supercharger idler pulley. It is a 6 rib 76mm with a large flange to hold the belt on.
15mm socket and ratchet.
Dremel tool.
About five minutes of your time.
Of course, you need to first remove your belt, take off the stock pulley.
Here's the difference between the two pulleys. Buick on left, and stock on the right:
A different shot, with the stocker on top of the Buick:
And a side-by-side comparision, to see how much deeper the flange is:
You will need to clearance the pulley ribs so that they don't hit the tensioner. This is easily accomplished in about a minute with a Dremel tool. I did both sides, so that the washer for the bolt sat flat.
Here is an installed pic of the pulley, boring, I know:
I hope that this will provide a good alternative to the Katech tensioner for those who don't want to spend the money. I personally don't need the extra flange and diameter for high-rpms, but rather to keep the short 52.5" belt that I use to bypass the PS pump from getting thrown when I use it.
On a side note, my factory tensioner must have lost some of its tension, because my temperatures are approximately 10 degrees lower than they were, so perhaps the belt was slipping on the water pump pulley? I'm going to the track this coming Friday, so I'll report back with whether or not the pulley helped the throwing problem or the fact that my temperature got higher quicker with the short belt.
Thanks, Rabidbandit and 8GTOKLR for the idea.
I may give this a try.
07-16-2007, 11:18 AM
#4
Originally Posted by black01_WS6
would I need the same belt size with the underdrive pulley?
Looks good and I like the higher sidewalls. good write up.
Looks good and I like the higher sidewalls. good write up.
Keep in mind that belt is for bypassing the power steering.
The belt that I have on my car right now is the stock length. I only put on the short belt for the track.
07-17-2007, 10:33 PM
#6
Originally Posted by MCBRIZ28
The gates part number is 38009 and no grinding is required with it I just installed it today.
BOSS APPROVED!
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09-26-2007, 07:36 AM
#9
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You can even get a larger pulley than that. The Wbody store sells an oversized tensioner pulley for the GTPs/Buick GSs that is better for more belt wrap on the supercharger. Don't know if that'll be beneficial to your application, just an FYI.
http://www.wbodystore.com/grandprix/...ulley-p-3.html
http://www.wbodystore.com/grandprix/...ulley-p-3.html
02-15-2008, 04:12 AM
#10
You can even get a larger pulley than that. The Wbody store sells an oversized tensioner pulley for the GTPs/Buick GSs that is better for more belt wrap on the supercharger. Don't know if that'll be beneficial to your application, just an FYI.
http://www.wbodystore.com/grandprix/...ulley-p-3.html
http://www.wbodystore.com/grandprix/...ulley-p-3.html
Not this one:
02-15-2008, 08:56 AM
#11
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Call me a noob which I am..
What is the benefit of this-I get the not throwing belt part. Is this for when you want to bypass the power steering at the track or? Thanks.
What is the benefit of this-I get the not throwing belt part. Is this for when you want to bypass the power steering at the track or? Thanks. 
08-09-2011, 10:22 PM
#17
update.......threw the damm belt........boy was i pissed.....had to call a tow......using a NEW truck alt made me go to a 80 inch belt.....stock is 79......with this pulley i am using a 80 1/2 belt........so far so good......i am also using a new dayco tensioner.....and no grinding on the backside of the pulley was needed
05-02-2012, 01:49 PM
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I know this thread is 5 years old now, BUT, there is a better option available now:
Stock 2010 Camaro ss tensioner pulley is setup the exact same way, with the tall shoulder and all (not sure on the exact OD, however) and is a direct bolt on, no trimming required.
Figured I would pass this along
Stock 2010 Camaro ss tensioner pulley is setup the exact same way, with the tall shoulder and all (not sure on the exact OD, however) and is a direct bolt on, no trimming required.
Figured I would pass this along