Project: Bumblebee
Im talking with the guy now. He actually runs a shop in Texas. Hes being defensive saying its no big deal and that I should just run a catch can. He claims that he didnt know. I dont know whether thats true or not. But if he runs a shop and I am a customer, something needs to be done. I would accept a different block since this one is already bored to the max.
Yeah Ive pulled a 75,000 mile motor apart and it looked like new.
Well at least the guy that was from Texas and sold you the cam didn't screw ya. 
Either your camera is making those cylinders look really nasty or they are jacked up. Sorry about the delay. I'm anxious to see how you like the cam with your setup.
Either your camera is making those cylinders look really nasty or they are jacked up. Sorry about the delay. I'm anxious to see how you like the cam with your setup.
^^^^ LOL.
The surface is rough. I can feel it when I run my finger over it. It definetly was done by the skirt.
Is it normal for a forged skirt to cause scuffing? Ive built forged motors before but I have never pulled apart a used forged motor.
The surface is rough. I can feel it when I run my finger over it. It definetly was done by the skirt.
Is it normal for a forged skirt to cause scuffing? Ive built forged motors before but I have never pulled apart a used forged motor.
Yea those walls are no good, my LT1 i just scraped looked like that, brought it in for a freshening and only 1 cylinder looked that yours and he said it had to go .010 over to clean it(.005 prob woulda cleaned it but 4.040 pistons are easier to get). I could feel them with my nail also.
I ended up selling it all and going LS
Also my 127K mile LQ still has hash marks!
I would be bitching, bc your gonna have some blowby with that!
Sweet looking build so far tho!
Jay
I ended up selling it all and going LS
Also my 127K mile LQ still has hash marks!
I would be bitching, bc your gonna have some blowby with that!
Sweet looking build so far tho!
Jay
i did not know and was not aware of any scuffs..the motor had 8k on it of daily driving with afr 205s and a tr224 cam...i got it refreshed it with new rings bearings cam bearings ect and pump and put it in my car with a g6x3...ran it about 200 miles 8 passes then sold it...
i had no blowby no burning oil it had 3 oil changes in this time and over 80 psi at wot...
it went 10.9s on motor with a nitrous setup and 9.9 at 136 on 125 shot...i did hit it with 225 a few times...one in the video above
made 455 on motor and 630+ on LG motorsports dyno spinning
motors not in front of me anymore so i cant see how bad they are but i believe your camera is making them look worse...and like i said i had no issues with it at all...
Last edited by daniel6718; Apr 29, 2010 at 07:02 PM.
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Verdad Gallardo Daniel6718, when you had it refreshed, correct me if im wrong but you did not have the cylinder bores touched correct?
Who did the actual machining to the block, yours or another shop?
im not jumping your *** just trying to help get to the root of these scoring marks.
Who did the actual machining to the block, yours or another shop?
im not jumping your *** just trying to help get to the root of these scoring marks.
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
This is a classic case of “washing the ring out”.
The cross hatches look like shelves under a micro scoop.
They are there to hold oil to seal the rings and lube the cylinders.
A rich tune up will wash the oil off the cylinders and cause piston
scuff and accelerate ring and cylinder wear.
If your motor is in good shape and your oil gets dark within 500-1000
miles of daily driving you tune is to fat.
This will wear a motor out very fast.
This is why it’s a good idea to change your oil after every track day.
The richer AFR’s is hard on the oil.
The cross hatches look like shelves under a micro scoop.
They are there to hold oil to seal the rings and lube the cylinders.
A rich tune up will wash the oil off the cylinders and cause piston
scuff and accelerate ring and cylinder wear.
If your motor is in good shape and your oil gets dark within 500-1000
miles of daily driving you tune is to fat.
This will wear a motor out very fast.
This is why it’s a good idea to change your oil after every track day.
The richer AFR’s is hard on the oil.
Perhaps it would be a good idea to have the bores all measured by a competent person with the correct bore gauge before passing judgement on the overall condition. Also could pull out one or more pistons and confirm skirt condition and check ring end gap.
I don't know either party involved, but these are used RACING parts that have been run hard. 200 miles of driving like shown in the video?
I don't know either party involved, but these are used RACING parts that have been run hard. 200 miles of driving like shown in the video?
^^^These "racing" parts, when installed properly, do not wear out. When have you heard of a rod on piston wearing out. There are 100+K motors out there running over 10lbs of boost every weekend at the drag strip that don't miss a beat. This thing was only hit with a 125 shot and some 225 shot. A stock motor can take that easily.
Anyway Im trying to get a refund but so far all is quiet. He owns a shop and I am his customer. I think im entitled to a refund especially when neither of us were aware of the problem. Because lets face it. It is a problem.
Anyway Im trying to get a refund but so far all is quiet. He owns a shop and I am his customer. I think im entitled to a refund especially when neither of us were aware of the problem. Because lets face it. It is a problem.
Here are some more pics for your viewing pleasure. Who else thinks these pictures "make it look worse than it really is?"
Cylinder # 1
Cylinder # 3
Piston # 4 showing a pit from detonation
Cylinder # 7
And my favorite Cylinder # 5
Some crap that on a lot of the walls but this is the worst.
Cylinder # 1
Cylinder # 3
Piston # 4 showing a pit from detonation
Cylinder # 7
And my favorite Cylinder # 5
Some crap that on a lot of the walls but this is the worst.
Last edited by Oh4GTO; Apr 28, 2010 at 07:46 PM.
Just to educate everyone a bit I got this email from a very good friend whos been building and racing engines for over 25 years.
I can speculate a bunch about the block but I wont ... instead I will just give you a few facts ....
* its glazed ... lack of oiling put a shine on the walls and wiped out all cross hatch ..
* The rings caused the grooves .. they come to high on the wall to be the skirt
* some detonation occured and the black on the cyl walls is actually corrsion (rust) in early stages then oiled over by pistons
* You can see a spot of steel real small at the end of the grooves .. this is the rings "galling" or welding to the wall ... again thats the third step from lack of oil .. first it wipes the cross hatch then shines the wall to a mirror .. then welds to it moving metal
Dont run it .. you will get blow by in time ... definately if blown (looks like a lean hot nos motor to me .. ooops im speculating)
I can speculate a bunch about the block but I wont ... instead I will just give you a few facts ....
* its glazed ... lack of oiling put a shine on the walls and wiped out all cross hatch ..
* The rings caused the grooves .. they come to high on the wall to be the skirt
* some detonation occured and the black on the cyl walls is actually corrsion (rust) in early stages then oiled over by pistons
* You can see a spot of steel real small at the end of the grooves .. this is the rings "galling" or welding to the wall ... again thats the third step from lack of oil .. first it wipes the cross hatch then shines the wall to a mirror .. then welds to it moving metal
Dont run it .. you will get blow by in time ... definately if blown (looks like a lean hot nos motor to me .. ooops im speculating)
im no genius, and i could be conpletely wrong but id say
definately no detonation at 12 degrees of timing on a 225 shot... at high 12 a/f
since your trying to speculate definately not lean...since rich is which is what causes rings to wash out
and third i doubt HALF the motor has a lack of oiling problem...
piston 4 isnt a pit from detonation probably from a broken valve or similar from previous owner.
i got the rings directly from weisco...they recomended them to me...and told me what gap to run. These might be the whole problem? im not sure?
the black spot on the wall is probably water from when i tore the motor down and it got surface rust on the way to you...that you probably wiped oil on when you cleaned off the pistons
anyways since we talked on the phone earlier I will check on what i said i would and get back with you tomaro night.
definately no detonation at 12 degrees of timing on a 225 shot... at high 12 a/f
since your trying to speculate definately not lean...since rich is which is what causes rings to wash out
and third i doubt HALF the motor has a lack of oiling problem...
piston 4 isnt a pit from detonation probably from a broken valve or similar from previous owner.
i got the rings directly from weisco...they recomended them to me...and told me what gap to run. These might be the whole problem? im not sure?
the black spot on the wall is probably water from when i tore the motor down and it got surface rust on the way to you...that you probably wiped oil on when you cleaned off the pistons
anyways since we talked on the phone earlier I will check on what i said i would and get back with you tomaro night.
Last edited by daniel6718; Apr 29, 2010 at 12:31 AM.
subscribed.
I will be interested in seeing what the motor looks like when tore down.
This is what happens when you buy used parts. It may or may not be the fault of the seller.
I would ask what type of rings where installed, what type of finish was on the cylinder walls, piston to wall clearance, who did the machine work, etc.
I will be interested in seeing what the motor looks like when tore down.
This is what happens when you buy used parts. It may or may not be the fault of the seller.
I would ask what type of rings where installed, what type of finish was on the cylinder walls, piston to wall clearance, who did the machine work, etc.
