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question for engine builders dealing with boost

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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 01:45 PM
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i'm buyin a 402 forged shortblock and the plan next year is to put a supercharger on it. since i'll be running rings for boost, should i just wait to get the supercharger to even start the engine or should i run it N/A to get everything seated and break it in?
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 02:55 PM
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Run that ****!
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 03:17 PM
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I don't see any problem with running it NA before you add boost.
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 03:30 PM
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i don't want o have to pull the engine to fix something because it sould've been broken in one way ya know?
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by King Nothing
i don't want o have to pull the engine to fix something because it sould've been broken in one way ya know?
The break in procedure will be the same (depending on how you choose to do it) with or without boost. Seating the rings shouldn't matter if you're boosting or not.
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 03:44 PM
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what about the gap difference? when i go from running it NA to blown. originally i was going to run it N/A but i was told the reason he was telling me otherwise is because i was talkin to him about what i was told by tim at scoggin dickey, my tuner, an engine builder in so cal and i think 1 or 2 other people that it'd be best to break the engine in N/A before puttin that blower on it since all the parts will be brand new and you don't want to shock them too much in the break-in period of the engine witht the blower i'm puttin on. but my buddy is saying i should break it in with the blower because things wont be seated right and the heat tolerances will be different from N/A and the blower set-up and that'll be bad for the engine
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 04:41 PM
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Break it in N/A. Once the rings are seated it wont make a difference. I plan on running my new motor 500-1000 miles before I let her see any boost. I also plan on using joe gibbs breakin oil and changing the oil 2 or 3 times within that period. Dont stress the new parts till everything have broken in and mated to its counterparts lol. Ring end gaps will or should be different from N/A to boosted. Running a higher boosted engine is going to require a little more clearance on the ring endgap.
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 04:50 PM
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blower wont have anything to do with breaking in-you wont be in much boost driving it easy for a little bit-just make sure the ring gaps are set up for boost
i have never run one w/o the blower at first-you think all those new cars are run around w/o their blowers before Ford/GM slaps them on, lol
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 05:44 PM
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It doesn't matter just don't kick its *** or run around with a bad tune. Now if you don't have the self control like some of my customers leave the blower off.
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 05:49 PM
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it'll be tuned before i drive it and i drive like a bitch honestly lol slow starts slow stops and i cruise on the freeway at 65-70 lol thanks for lettin me know!
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 06:32 PM
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Dont forget to tell your buddy he's a tard also. LOL
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 12:30 AM
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^lol i'll be sure to tell him to come and check this stuff out but he never responded to what one of the guys from HKE said about what he was talking about lol
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 10:06 PM
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NA is fine. The action that seats the rings is when you let off at a decent rpm and the high engine vacuum pulls the rings against the cylinder walls. With most modern rings, 10 or 12 good cycles like that and they should be seated. A complete cooldown cycle afterwards and a retorquing of the head studs per the gasket mfg. and you are good to go. Make sure your builder gaps the rings as per the ring mfg's recommendations for a street boosted motor.

Jim
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by DeltaT
NA is fine. The action that seats the rings is when you let off at a decent rpm and the high engine vacuum pulls the rings against the cylinder walls. With most modern rings, 10 or 12 good cycles like that and they should be seated. A complete cooldown cycle afterwards and a retorquing of the head studs per the gasket mfg. and you are good to go. Make sure your builder gaps the rings as per the ring mfg's recommendations for a street boosted motor.

Jim
the shop doin it definately knows their **** as from what i've been told by quite a few people one of the best shops on the west coast so i'm confident my engine will be remarkable!! thanks guys for the input
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 01:44 AM
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bet this comes as a surprise.

I'd put the blower on it 1st. Run it till it pops, then you have a reason to buy a motor.

I've seen these stock LS blocks hold 650rwhp.
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 03:00 AM
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Originally Posted by AES Racing
bet this comes as a surprise.

I'd put the blower on it 1st. Run it till it pops, then you have a reason to buy a motor.

I've seen these stock LS blocks hold 650rwhp.
yeah well here's the problem with that plan . . . . my stock LS motor hydro-locked in january lol thats why i'm buildin the LQ motor to handle all the power i want and then some. build it once is my plan
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by King Nothing
yeah well here's the problem with that plan . . . . my stock LS motor hydro-locked in january lol thats why i'm buildin the LQ motor to handle all the power i want and then some. build it once is my plan
I'm in the same boat with my LT1 - water pump broke suddenly which took out the head gasket. I replaced the water pump and it didn't behave like it had a blown head gasket (no white smoke or power loss) so a couple weeks later I hydrolocked it.

To answer your question, I am also building a motor for boost, add my builder to the list who say breaking it in NA is no problem.
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by King Nothing
yeah well here's the problem with that plan . . . . my stock LS motor hydro-locked in january lol thats why i'm buildin the LQ motor to handle all the power i want and then some. build it once is my plan
That's a great reason. Just make sure it doesnt run rich while your breaking it in. Error on the lean side.
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Z28Roxy
I'm in the same boat with my LT1 - water pump broke suddenly which took out the head gasket. I replaced the water pump and it didn't behave like it had a blown head gasket (no white smoke or power loss) so a couple weeks later I hydrolocked it.

To answer your question, I am also building a motor for boost, add my builder to the list who say breaking it in NA is no problem.
yeah i was told that the engine of the past yes you had to break them in with the blower but with how the rings are made today it doesn't matter.
so did you shoot a rod through the side of your block also???? lol
Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
That's a great reason. Just make sure it doesnt run rich while your breaking it in. Error on the lean side.
well my tuner will be the one to turn the engine over so eveyrthing is right with the tuning.
i still need to pull my old LS block, the hole from the rod is almost big enough to fit 3 fingers in lol
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 01:18 PM
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Well considering that a boosted engine runs NA until you get on it..... Run it NA until you get the blower!
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