WTF! Still no boost of the line!
#22
Restricted User
iTrader: (17)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
In the front is the "correct" place for it.
Just looked at your tune. Get a quick log with the timing histogram on the tbrake in order to see what cylinder airmass you are at. From one column above to the 120 column and from 0 to 4000 RPM add 7* of timing. Then interpolate back to your 23* by 5200 and see how much higher you can bring up the stall. You will need to be able to get it over 3500 regardless of where the turbo is. Might need to get the converter loosened a little bit.
Just looked at your tune. Get a quick log with the timing histogram on the tbrake in order to see what cylinder airmass you are at. From one column above to the 120 column and from 0 to 4000 RPM add 7* of timing. Then interpolate back to your 23* by 5200 and see how much higher you can bring up the stall. You will need to be able to get it over 3500 regardless of where the turbo is. Might need to get the converter loosened a little bit.
#23
FormerVendor
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia Beach,Virginia
Posts: 2,991
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I got to be honest with you-i believe those heads are really killing you.The big runner in the ls3's do not like to make low end tq-the tq is what helps spool-you need a 235-245 runner at the most.They would prob be fine in a frt mount.The 2 step will def help alot-we even use 3 steps on the race stuff.
#26
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (3)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If you are auto no idea what the heck is the problem . Unless your turbo spools up at like 5000 or higher rpm. then best to run small shot of nitrous.
That will spool it or maybe get a way higher stall converter.
#28
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
good idea, i wish i could afford some n20 right now, but then id just run it all the way down the track and not just to get boost lol
#29
11 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Windsor, Ontario Canada
Posts: 569
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
mine can see around 5-6psi on the brake no issues!
3600 stall convertor, seems loose as I can see like 4500 on the trans brake
Jay
3600 stall convertor, seems loose as I can see like 4500 on the trans brake
Jay
Last edited by jay_rich; 06-13-2010 at 02:51 PM.
#30
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I got to be honest with you-i believe those heads are really killing you.The big runner in the ls3's do not like to make low end tq-the tq is what helps spool-you need a 235-245 runner at the most.They would prob be fine in a frt mount.The 2 step will def help alot-we even use 3 steps on the race stuff.
I think my biggest problem is in the week **** 408, something about it is not right.
#31
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
In the front is the "correct" place for it.
Just looked at your tune. Get a quick log with the timing histogram on the tbrake in order to see what cylinder airmass you are at. From one column above to the 120 column and from 0 to 4000 RPM add 7* of timing. Then interpolate back to your 23* by 5200 and see how much higher you can bring up the stall. You will need to be able to get it over 3500 regardless of where the turbo is. Might need to get the converter loosened a little bit.
Just looked at your tune. Get a quick log with the timing histogram on the tbrake in order to see what cylinder airmass you are at. From one column above to the 120 column and from 0 to 4000 RPM add 7* of timing. Then interpolate back to your 23* by 5200 and see how much higher you can bring up the stall. You will need to be able to get it over 3500 regardless of where the turbo is. Might need to get the converter loosened a little bit.
#32
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Two things with the stall
1) Circle D built it to stall to 3400-3500ish on the tbrake with the 408. I do not think there is a problem with the stall, I think the 408 is symply a peice of **** and will not make any power NA, so it will not pull it up there.
2) I am sure the fluid I am running is reducing my stall rpm about 300-400 rpm, I am using John Deere Hyguard 20 as per the trans builders recomendations.
Before I pull the convertor and send it back to Circle D, I need to make sure the 408 is not the problem.
Do you remember talking to me about this turbo/ I first bought a PT76-GTS, then sold it and bought this GT088 from Beast. Ya'll hooked me up with the smaller PT T-4 turbine housing for it.
1) Circle D built it to stall to 3400-3500ish on the tbrake with the 408. I do not think there is a problem with the stall, I think the 408 is symply a peice of **** and will not make any power NA, so it will not pull it up there.
2) I am sure the fluid I am running is reducing my stall rpm about 300-400 rpm, I am using John Deere Hyguard 20 as per the trans builders recomendations.
Before I pull the convertor and send it back to Circle D, I need to make sure the 408 is not the problem.
Do you remember talking to me about this turbo/ I first bought a PT76-GTS, then sold it and bought this GT088 from Beast. Ya'll hooked me up with the smaller PT T-4 turbine housing for it.
#34
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
OK! I just got back from a little ride. This damn 408 might be a wimp off boost but holy **** batman! what a freaking beast under boost! DR Jeckel and Mr Hide kind of stuff! I got out on a peacefull rode and a pickup full of people were coming up behind me. They were already cruzin 50ish, I stood on the Tbrake, let her loose, once the boost came up, good buy slicks! Looked like James Bond with his smoke screen coming out of the car! I backed out of it (it was getting pretty squirrely) then stood back into it, she broke loose agai n at around 50-60mph! When I turned off, the pickup full of people went by honking with thumbs up and huge grins! You know they were like, what the F*&K! I haven't drove the car in over a month while doing the 4L80 swap. Man I am still shacking!!!! I freaking love that car!
Back to the lag issue: Here are three scans. First was a little warm up time, with one Tbrake launch, second was just a little driving, third was the full boost run. I have not looked at the scans yet. I am sure with the temp being almost 100 degrees today the VE will be way off, it was in the 60's when I was last tuning the VE. Also, the tune that was in it. Worked on a few things from last nights tune. Let me know what ya'll think.
Back to the lag issue: Here are three scans. First was a little warm up time, with one Tbrake launch, second was just a little driving, third was the full boost run. I have not looked at the scans yet. I am sure with the temp being almost 100 degrees today the VE will be way off, it was in the 60's when I was last tuning the VE. Also, the tune that was in it. Worked on a few things from last nights tune. Let me know what ya'll think.
#36
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It is going way rich under boost. When I was tuning the VE at the track I was maxing out the 80's. On the way home I figured out the second fuel pump was not coming on. I corrected that and I have not been back to the track to correct the VE tables for the extra fuel yet. It is bottoming out my WB. I will be working on that lnext time I go to the track. The way she pulls under boost is so very scarry! No one in their right mind needs that kind of power on the street! Expecially me! HAHAHHAHA. I can not wait to work all my bugs out and get the boost up to 17psi! What a ride!!!
#38
Restricted User
iTrader: (17)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I checked out your logs. You have 0 boost until 5500. That's NFG. Wont be fixing that thru the tune. Your fuel going rich is well beyond that point so it wont help this problem IMO. If the compression and leakdown check out, then you will need to look into making a drastic change or 2 in order to correct this.
#39
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I checked out your logs. You have 0 boost until 5500. That's NFG. Wont be fixing that thru the tune. Your fuel going rich is well beyond that point so it wont help this problem IMO. If the compression and leakdown check out, then you will need to look into making a drastic change or 2 in order to correct this.
Here are the facts as I know them.
1) The 408 NA first installed only ran 12.7 at 115mph, 4000lbs car. That shows a hp of about 425, at least 125hp less then what it was built to do.
2) The 408 is not making any low end power, NA or right before boost.
3) Nothing that has been changed has made any difference at all.
4) When the 408 was NA, I had EGT's on the engine. One on the drives side and the other on the passenger side. I could never get the EGT's over 999 degrees, and that would be at the end of the run. I leaned and leaned the fuel out until the time started falling off. added timing up to 22 degrees WOT, still the EGT's would not go over 1000 degrees.
This again tells me there is something not right with the 408, but what it is I have no idea.
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
I am open to any advise on this.
#40
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I checked out your logs. You have 0 boost until 5500. That's NFG. Wont be fixing that thru the tune. Your fuel going rich is well beyond that point so it wont help this problem IMO. If the compression and leakdown check out, then you will need to look into making a drastic change or 2 in order to correct this.