Been pretty busy lately but I'm gonna put those catch tanks back on the turbos, replace the check valve to the turbos, modify the scavenge pump bracket to get it into a more efficient position, and check the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge. After all that, I'll see where I stand then.

 

You are checking it with the car running?


The 90 fittings coming off the turbo drains are not good.

Do you even need a scavenge pump? It looks like you might be able to drain directly into the pan.

 

I only check the oil when the car is off (usually after running for a bit and getting warmed up). The turbos need to be scavenged with a pump to get the oil out as fast as possible. The driver side could almost do it with gravity, but as for the passenger side, no way. I agree that the sharp angles of the 90 degree fittings are probably greatly contributing to my problems so I'm changing them out. Modifying the scavenge pump bracket so that the pump inlet faces straight back, rather than down, should help a lot too.

 

Update:

I changed the angle of the scavenge pump to put it more in line with the flow of the turbos and ran all new -8 braided lines and Y-block. I also moved the return line from the port where the low oil level sensor used to be and tapped it into the top front of the pan. I also added a .65" oil restrictor between the check valve and the T-fitting on the turbo oil feed line. I was having very low oil pressure at idle and running just over 210 when the motor got warmed up using 10W30 oil. I moved up to Mobile1 15W50 and now it seems to maintain close to 20 psi at idle and stays under 210.

The only problem I have right now is that the car doesn't want to stay idling on its own. It is supposed to idle at abut 800 rpm but wants to sit at about 500 now and starts to choke itself out. If I keep my foot on the gas a bit and keep it where it's supposed to be, it does just fine, but no matter how long it runs, it just wants to die if I let it run on its own for a minute. I still have some oil resedue in the intake from when the turbos were flooding with oil and passing it through the intake side and that also pretty much fouled my plugs. Im going to Seafoam the intake, change the plugs, clean the 02 sensor, and put some fresh gas and meth in it and see how it does then.

 

Got the car idling properly when I ran the last bit of the old gas that had been sitting in the tank for a while out of there and filled it back up. I also forgot to mention that I got the A/C working again when I added lubricant in with the R-34. I guess the system had just gotten drained dead empty when the motor was pulled. I got on it a few times around the block and check under the hood afterwards for oil blowing through the intake. So far it looked pretty clean so hopefully that's finally fixed. When it got heated up, it did start that tapping sound in the passenger side head again and the oil pressure started to fall at idle like it did before. It wasn't as low this time though, probably because of the thicker oil. It was going as low as 10 or 12 psi, but not as low as 5 psi like before. Maybe I need to put 6.5 qrts in there rather than 6. I'm hoping that a lot of this is just a result of the burn oil buildup in the valves from when it was getting all that oil in the intake before. I'm gonna try Seafoaming the intake and changing the plugs and maybe that will fix all these problems, but hopefully thats not just wishful thinking. Here are some pics of the new lines on the scavenge pump setup:

 

I bet the o-ring is pinched on the pick up tube. That or you have a bearing problem. It shouldnt be that low.

 

I was going to mention the 0-ring on the pickup tube also, that causes low idle pressure. Also, do you have any excessive blow-by? I had a bad boost leak problem also and thought it was the wastage, it turned out to be a cracked ring and it would hold boost for a quick second then bleed off boost pretty badly causing excessive blow-by and would blow my oil dipstick out.

 

Are u saying a ring in your engine or a turbo seal ring was causing this blowby? That could explain the oil in intake. The oil pump hasn't been removed since it was first installed on the motor was first put together as far as I know and this issue didn't occur until the turbo kit was installed.

 

In mine it was a piston rings that were allowing the boost pressure to get down into the crankcase. This would then blow oil and have lots of pressure comming out of my dipstick and my valve covers. I actually kept blowing out valve cover gaskets because it was so bad. If you have anything going from your valve cover to your intake then this oil could go up that and into the intake. ( The trucks have a tube with a 1 way check valve in it that runs from the intake to the valve cover) Boost could not get to the crankcase that way because of the check valve, but oil could come up from the crankcase and into the intake because of the blowby from the pistons. Sorry if the cars don't work the same way, i do not know their exact set up.


Basically try doing a compression check, just to make sure all your rings are good, cause this could cause the low engine power that you described earlier and also cause the boost loss.

 

Could it also explain the drop in OP?

 

No. Unless pieces of it made it's way to the bearings.

 

I have drained the oil 3 times in the last few weeks and it has been clean as a whistle every time.

 

You may want to invest in ARP rod bolts if you plan on running 10lbs + or high rpms more before it's to late... how many miles on engine?

 

It has ARP rod bolts. It's a fully forged short block from HKS and it only has about 6k on it total, if even that.