Blew the oil dipstick tube out
#1
Blew the oil dipstick tube out
I finally got the SDCE tensioner installed this evening and took the car out for a spin. Drove for a while to make sure everything was good, and gave it a few good WOT pulls. Shocked me when I looked at the boost gauge and was coming past 10psi, so I shifted and let off. Wideband looked good on my WOT pulls, but as I started heading home, I see smoke coming out the back. Just about crapped myself thinking I messed the motor up.
Got to the garage and raised the hood, and my oil dipstick is popped up out of the tube. Oil is freaking everywhere.
I have a catch can routed as follows: Both rear valve cover ports are tied together and routed to a catch can, outlet to a check valve and then to the manifold. Throttle body outlet is capped. The front passenger side valve cover is routed directly to the inlet side of the blower.
Any help here? I was making 7-8psi with the 6 rib setup before I changed to the SDCE 8-rib and never had this problem.
Got to the garage and raised the hood, and my oil dipstick is popped up out of the tube. Oil is freaking everywhere.
I have a catch can routed as follows: Both rear valve cover ports are tied together and routed to a catch can, outlet to a check valve and then to the manifold. Throttle body outlet is capped. The front passenger side valve cover is routed directly to the inlet side of the blower.
Any help here? I was making 7-8psi with the 6 rib setup before I changed to the SDCE 8-rib and never had this problem.
#2
TT-TECH Veteran
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You have a piston issue. You either lifted a ring land or damaged a piston etc... More than likely it will be number 7 etc... You can look in my signature and see what it looks like when you wait a while to find out thats what it is etc... There will be a few people that tell you that it could be something else, but unless you have a boost source connected to your crank case, this will be what it is etc... BTW I have a boost ready 346 I just picked up from Eric at HKE that I am going to sell if you need one. GL!
Jeff
Jeff
#4
Oh hell, that's not what I was wanting to hear...
I should clarify and say that the inline check valve in my PCV system is really just a PCV type valve...not one of the McMaster Carr valves. I read something about that last night...hopefully that's part of the problem.
I'll be doing a compression test ASAP. I guess I'll be able to tell pretty quick then.
If not, I'll have to sell my entire FI system to just to pay for a new motor....
I should clarify and say that the inline check valve in my PCV system is really just a PCV type valve...not one of the McMaster Carr valves. I read something about that last night...hopefully that's part of the problem.
I'll be doing a compression test ASAP. I guess I'll be able to tell pretty quick then.
If not, I'll have to sell my entire FI system to just to pay for a new motor....
#6
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Oh hell, that's not what I was wanting to hear...
I should clarify and say that the inline check valve in my PCV system is really just a PCV type valve...not one of the McMaster Carr valves. I read something about that last night...hopefully that's part of the problem.
I'll be doing a compression test ASAP. I guess I'll be able to tell pretty quick then.
If not, I'll have to sell my entire FI system to just to pay for a new motor....
I should clarify and say that the inline check valve in my PCV system is really just a PCV type valve...not one of the McMaster Carr valves. I read something about that last night...hopefully that's part of the problem.
I'll be doing a compression test ASAP. I guess I'll be able to tell pretty quick then.
If not, I'll have to sell my entire FI system to just to pay for a new motor....
#10
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When #7 went on my car I could pull the oil cap off and it looked like a chimney (this is with a check valve/catch can setup).
Might be time to start saving your pennies for some forged pistons/rods.
Might be time to start saving your pennies for some forged pistons/rods.
#15
FormerVendor
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It could easily be PCV. With a one way valve, you get ZERO PCV under boost. I recall mentioning that when we talked in the past. Your PCV needs to draw from the valve covers, goto a catch can, and then goto the inlet hat for the S/C so that you get real PCV under boost.
You CAN check a cylinder, but I would personally setup the PCV properly first.
You CAN check a cylinder, but I would personally setup the PCV properly first.
#18
It could easily be PCV. With a one way valve, you get ZERO PCV under boost. I recall mentioning that when we talked in the past. Your PCV needs to draw from the valve covers, goto a catch can, and then goto the inlet hat for the S/C so that you get real PCV under boost.
You CAN check a cylinder, but I would personally setup the PCV properly first.
You CAN check a cylinder, but I would personally setup the PCV properly first.
-Rear two valve cover ports tied together--->Catch Can inlet
-Catch can outlet------>Check Valve------>Intake Manifold
-Front valve cover port (passenger side)------->blower hat inlet
No?
#19
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Sounds alot like a friend of mine's truck. He's pretty sure the #7 ringland is broken and possibly the #5 too. Either way the #7 cylinder had 65% leakdown and it was blowing the dipstick out. Sounds like this may be your issue.