Vortech v9 gtrim
Sweet guys thanks for all the info!
Yeah I know my cam isn't ideal, but it will work like Inspector12 said.
I guess I'll put this whole set up together and see where it takes me, if Im not happy with the performance I will change out the cam in the future. But like I said I would be content with 550wheel and I dont want more than 600 due to reliability. Im thinking with my baseline at 400 it should be able to reach my goals well hopefully lol
Yeah I know my cam isn't ideal, but it will work like Inspector12 said.
I guess I'll put this whole set up together and see where it takes me, if Im not happy with the performance I will change out the cam in the future. But like I said I would be content with 550wheel and I dont want more than 600 due to reliability. Im thinking with my baseline at 400 it should be able to reach my goals well hopefully lol
especially with a more "boost friendly cam"
keep us updated on your situation!
I made 575 on the stocker when I blew that up, I put rods and pistons in that and made 601rwhp. I spun mine to 6800 on the dyno, but usually shifted it at 6500. Any thing over 6500-6800 usually max on stock stuff. Mine peaked at @6400 so I tried to keep it in that area as much as possible lol!They will live in the 500-550 range if a safe tune and, no more that say 2-3runs back to back before you drive normal or stop and let it cool down etc... Reapeated runs I have seem people do will kill a motor quick especially when not forged with safe tune or not. IAT's climb and then a little detonation and bam you have a ringland or piston issue. If it makes more power than you want pull a little timming GL! You will be supprised how well it will run.
Jeff
Jeff
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Warren, Ohio
thank you. ill keep you posted.
but going frontmount, wouldnt you have to relocate your battery?
what kind of intercooler do you have?
and where di you get it from? have any pics of your setup yet?
you could deff. fab up ic piping from that site for sure too.
and to the op, from my understanding, that cam is not idea for a boosted car at all.
with boosted cars,the more lsa you have, the more boost friendly, in a way.
your cam is a strictly n/a type cam.
but going frontmount, wouldnt you have to relocate your battery?
what kind of intercooler do you have?
and where di you get it from? have any pics of your setup yet?
you could deff. fab up ic piping from that site for sure too.
and to the op, from my understanding, that cam is not idea for a boosted car at all.
with boosted cars,the more lsa you have, the more boost friendly, in a way.
your cam is a strictly n/a type cam.
I have an ebay intercooler 31x12x4, the brand name is Godspeed, they are dirt cheap like $160 bucks. Works great at my boost level (9.2lbs)
I need to get pics up, my piece of **** digital camera broke, maybe i'll try and snap a few shots with my phone later this evening to give you guys an idea. A picture is worth a thousand words. It'll be much easier to show you
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Warren, Ohio
I made 575 on the stocker when I blew that up, I put rods and pistons in that and made 601rwhp. I spun mine to 6800 on the dyno, but usually shifted it at 6500. Any thing over 6500-6800 usually max on stock stuff. Mine peaked at @6400 so I tried to keep it in that area as much as possible lol!They will live in the 500-550 range if a safe tune and, no more that say 2-3runs back to back before you drive normal or stop and let it cool down etc... Reapeated runs I have seem people do will kill a motor quick especially when not forged with safe tune or not. IAT's climb and then a little detonation and bam you have a ringland or piston issue. If it makes more power than you want pull a little timming GL! You will be supprised how well it will run.
Jeff
Jeff
I ran a 2.65" pulley and then the 2.5" I prefered the 2.65". I was talking about 6500RPM on the motor just to be clear that we are on the same page etc... I only made 8-9lbs with that set up.
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Warren, Ohio
So with the 2.65" pulley, a forged bottom end and heads and FI friendly" cam you made around 600rwhp at about 8-9lbs of boost right? Just out of curiosity what kind of pistons/rods/heads/cam did you use when you built your motor? Also it makes me wonder if it be more beneficial to just upgrade to the t-trim when I build a forged bottom end, to run more boost=make even more power, all of this will come with a cost of course. Do you think i'd see a huge difference with the t-trim vs the g, I know transamatt said he wished he upgraded to a YSi instead of the t-trim (he made around 650rwhp). Either way, I think I have some time before I'll be needing to build a forged bottom end. Had the car out tonight and was really getting on it, seems to be holding up real well. I can lay some nice rubber 1st-3rd gear even with my heavy TT2S and sticky goodyear 315 F1s. I think with my FMIC I see much cooler charge temps vs. what I'd see with the aftercooler set-up, I'd venture to think its more effiecent on a street application like mine and some other members on the form. I'll have some pictures up tomorrow of my set-up
Yea I'm also reffering to the 6500RPMS on the motor. 64K RPMS is where mine peaks as well.
So with the 2.65" pulley, a forged bottom end and heads and FI friendly" cam you made around 600rwhp at about 8-9lbs of boost right? Just out of curiosity what kind of pistons/rods/heads/cam did you use when you built your motor? Also it makes me wonder if it be more beneficial to just upgrade to the t-trim when I build a forged bottom end, to run more boost=make even more power, all of this will come with a cost of course. Do you think i'd see a huge difference with the t-trim vs the g, I know transamatt said he wished he upgraded to a YSi instead of the t-trim (he made around 650rwhp). Either way, I think I have some time before I'll be needing to build a forged bottom end. Had the car out tonight and was really getting on it, seems to be holding up real well. I can lay some nice rubber 1st-3rd gear even with my heavy TT2S and sticky goodyear 315 F1s. I think with my FMIC I see much cooler charge temps vs. what I'd see with the aftercooler set-up, I'd venture to think its more effiecent on a street application like mine and some other members on the form. I'll have some pictures up tomorrow of my set-up
So with the 2.65" pulley, a forged bottom end and heads and FI friendly" cam you made around 600rwhp at about 8-9lbs of boost right? Just out of curiosity what kind of pistons/rods/heads/cam did you use when you built your motor? Also it makes me wonder if it be more beneficial to just upgrade to the t-trim when I build a forged bottom end, to run more boost=make even more power, all of this will come with a cost of course. Do you think i'd see a huge difference with the t-trim vs the g, I know transamatt said he wished he upgraded to a YSi instead of the t-trim (he made around 650rwhp). Either way, I think I have some time before I'll be needing to build a forged bottom end. Had the car out tonight and was really getting on it, seems to be holding up real well. I can lay some nice rubber 1st-3rd gear even with my heavy TT2S and sticky goodyear 315 F1s. I think with my FMIC I see much cooler charge temps vs. what I'd see with the aftercooler set-up, I'd venture to think its more effiecent on a street application like mine and some other members on the form. I'll have some pictures up tomorrow of my set-up
ive really been looking into fmic setups alll day.
could you please get a couple good pictures of the pipe routing by the battery as well?
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: Harrisburg, PA
Excellent question. It was described to me as "the 13 pound pulley". Not sure what diameter it is. It's now been at the shop longer then I've owned it (3 weeks in the shop). They fixed two minor exhaust leaks, shaved the bump stops because the corvette rims were rubbing, moved the drive shaft loop off the torque arm, replaced the pcv valve, egr gasket, replaced a T connector on the vacuum for the gauge and BPV with a compression fitting, etc. Hopefully it will make boost and I'll have more time to play with it in my garage!
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Brett Foote Yea I'm also reffering to the 6500RPMS on the motor. 64K RPMS is where mine peaks as well.
So with the 2.65" pulley, a forged bottom end and heads and FI friendly" cam you made around 600rwhp at about 8-9lbs of boost right? Just out of curiosity what kind of pistons/rods/heads/cam did you use when you built your motor? Also it makes me wonder if it be more beneficial to just upgrade to the t-trim when I build a forged bottom end, to run more boost=make even more power, all of this will come with a cost of course. Do you think i'd see a huge difference with the t-trim vs the g, I know transamatt said he wished he upgraded to a YSi instead of the t-trim (he made around 650rwhp). Either way, I think I have some time before I'll be needing to build a forged bottom end. Had the car out tonight and was really getting on it, seems to be holding up real well. I can lay some nice rubber 1st-3rd gear even with my heavy TT2S and sticky goodyear 315 F1s. I think with my FMIC I see much cooler charge temps vs. what I'd see with the aftercooler set-up, I'd venture to think its more effiecent on a street application like mine and some other members on the form. I'll have some pictures up tomorrow of my set-up
So with the 2.65" pulley, a forged bottom end and heads and FI friendly" cam you made around 600rwhp at about 8-9lbs of boost right? Just out of curiosity what kind of pistons/rods/heads/cam did you use when you built your motor? Also it makes me wonder if it be more beneficial to just upgrade to the t-trim when I build a forged bottom end, to run more boost=make even more power, all of this will come with a cost of course. Do you think i'd see a huge difference with the t-trim vs the g, I know transamatt said he wished he upgraded to a YSi instead of the t-trim (he made around 650rwhp). Either way, I think I have some time before I'll be needing to build a forged bottom end. Had the car out tonight and was really getting on it, seems to be holding up real well. I can lay some nice rubber 1st-3rd gear even with my heavy TT2S and sticky goodyear 315 F1s. I think with my FMIC I see much cooler charge temps vs. what I'd see with the aftercooler set-up, I'd venture to think its more effiecent on a street application like mine and some other members on the form. I'll have some pictures up tomorrow of my set-up
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Warren, Ohio
Pictures of my set-up Thanks Inspector12 for all the info, i'll keep in in mind for the future when I build my bottom end.
Guys here is a link to all the pictures I took of my FMIC set-up, let me know what you think. Hopefully it will help anyone trying to put something together similar. It is also way cheaper than buying the aftercooler kit from vortech, just some food for thought
https://ls1tech.com/forums/album.php?albumid=15863
Guys here is a link to all the pictures I took of my FMIC set-up, let me know what you think. Hopefully it will help anyone trying to put something together similar. It is also way cheaper than buying the aftercooler kit from vortech, just some food for thought
https://ls1tech.com/forums/album.php?albumid=15863
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: Harrisburg, PA
Thanks for the pics transam151. Basically same thing as what mine is doing with 2.5". All my leaks are plugged and it was very lean so it will be tuned on Tuesday and we'll see what she's pulling! I'm very encouraged by the lean condition brought about by identifying and fixing those leaks (EGR gasket and PCV valve).
Excellent question. It was described to me as "the 13 pound pulley". Not sure what diameter it is. It's now been at the shop longer then I've owned it (3 weeks in the shop). They fixed two minor exhaust leaks, shaved the bump stops because the corvette rims were rubbing, moved the drive shaft loop off the torque arm, replaced the pcv valve, egr gasket, replaced a T connector on the vacuum for the gauge and BPV with a compression fitting, etc. Hopefully it will make boost and I'll have more time to play with it in my garage!
Thats a nice clean set-up transam151.
Thanks Inspector12 for all the info, i'll keep in in mind for the future when I build my bottom end.
Guys here is a link to all the pictures I took of my FMIC set-up, let me know what you think. Hopefully it will help anyone trying to put something together similar. It is also way cheaper than buying the aftercooler kit from vortech, just some food for thought
https://ls1tech.com/forums/album.php?albumid=15863
Guys here is a link to all the pictures I took of my FMIC set-up, let me know what you think. Hopefully it will help anyone trying to put something together similar. It is also way cheaper than buying the aftercooler kit from vortech, just some food for thought
https://ls1tech.com/forums/album.php?albumid=15863
one question though, you were saying to had a different battery, so im assuming your new battery is under all that piping?
becuase i was looking at my setup yesterday and i dont really understand how you managed to get those pipes down there.
isnot there also an extra coolent resivour there or somthing?
Thanks for the pics transam151. Basically same thing as what mine is doing with 2.5". All my leaks are plugged and it was very lean so it will be tuned on Tuesday and we'll see what she's pulling! I'm very encouraged by the lean condition brought about by identifying and fixing those leaks (EGR gasket and PCV valve).
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Warren, Ohio
perfect. that you tons. im really considering going fmic, and those pictures are that much more persuasive.
one question though, you were saying to had a different battery, so im assuming your new battery is under all that piping?
becuase i was looking at my setup yesterday and i dont really understand how you managed to get those pipes down there.
isnot there also an extra coolent resivour there or somthing?
keep us posted on the new numbers and how much boost shes putting out now! are you going to upgrade to 3" piping?
one question though, you were saying to had a different battery, so im assuming your new battery is under all that piping?
becuase i was looking at my setup yesterday and i dont really understand how you managed to get those pipes down there.
isnot there also an extra coolent resivour there or somthing?
keep us posted on the new numbers and how much boost shes putting out now! are you going to upgrade to 3" piping?
Rjparth, any new numbers yet since you fixed your set-up?
