The fuse box is right down under the driver pillar inside the door. Use a spare slot or tap a key on hot.

See here:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...elp-newbs.html

 

Can someone do me a favor? Please go to the Installation Manual link I posted up at the top and scroll down to "Diagram 9". Can you tell me is part # 118 the one-way oil check valve?

 

Yep, #118 is the one way check valve.

 

I have a lot better looking diagram and the Incon parts list. If anybody wants em PM me your email address. They're too big to post here

 

Thanks G, those are way better quality diagrams for sure.

I actually had a guy at a local shop look at my Incon oiling setup and he argued with me for a good bit that that COULDN'T be an oil check valve right there because it would'nt work He also proceeded to tell me that changing the bracket for my oil pump to make the inlet face back toward the turbos (rather than down toward the ground) was a waste of time.

Anyways, I am going to replace that old check valve and see if that helps too cause I saw some oil dripping out of there when the fitting was loose and the car was off, which is a bad thing I think. Everyone seems to use the McMaster check valve for this.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#7775k52/=7w44n0

 

I went ahead and ordered # 7775K1 because I kept seeing people using the 7775K2, but I knew I needed a 1/8" female x female. Hopefully it will help fix some of these problems for me.

 

Let me know how that works out man, I'm thinking about changing mine out too.

 

Guys I used 7768K51 which is a bolt in replacement for the original part. It has a 1 psi cracking pressure opposed to the 7775k51 which is just 0.3psi. I went through a bunch of crap before I replaced that. Now with around 4k miles on it, only one small hint of oil (and I think that was a fluke). I just got back from touring central Florida and it did perfectly the entire time. I've almost forgot it ever did it..

 

Damn! I wish I had known that before I ordered this one. It's better than if I had gone ahead and installed it though. I will probably go ahead and order that one tonight and either send the other one back or try and sell it. Is there anywhere else in the oiling system I might be able to use this other one I ordered?

 

It might work just fine so Don't Panic just yet, lol!!! .

The only thing that bothered me about that part number was the cracking pressure. There's probably not enough oil in the block to overcome it but I decided to err on the safe side.

Other mods I have are a restrictor that I made by welding up the tee fitting at the check valve and drilling the weld to 0.95" (IIRC) . 60psi on the turbo at cruise can't be good when they recommend a max of 40psi for a ball bearing turbo. Also I have a check valve on the return after the scavenge pump. My return is plumbed into the front of the pan just below the harmonic balancer so it can't be a bad idea to prevent flowback when parked facing downhill. I'll try to dig up pics on that and get a part number. Also next time I do the oil I'll pull the tee and check the restriction size.

 

As far as oil pressure goes, the issue I'm having is that after the car runs for a bit (burns up the excess oil in the turbos) the oil pressure gauge drops to nearly zero at idle. When driving and running above idle rpm, the gauge goes back up to 40 psi. I think that it may be that the oil getting used by the turbos isn't getting properly pumped back into the pan. I was going to get a custom bracket fabricated for the Turbowerx pump so that the inlet will be facing straight back toward the turbos (rather than toward the ground). Is there anything else I should consider that my be contributing to this drop in pressure?

 

Man, I don't think the turbo's would flow enough oil to kill your OP like that. If there's nothing else changed that would contribute to you're oiling problems, you better recheck you're plumbing. someone who knows better might chime in. Do you have pics of your setup?

EDIT: found the pix. My car doesn't have the oil cans on the return lines. Tom Porter said they weren't needed and just caused problems. I bought a couple aluminum adapters off ebay for the turbos and plumbed the return lines right to the scavenge pump.

 

I had ben told that at first, about the catch cans being more of a hindrance than a help, but from what I have read, those who installed them properly and kept them on didn't have near as many issues.

As far as the oiling issue goes, I did take off and sell my FAST 90 an swap on an LS6 since I was told the big manifold wouldn't promote large enough gains to justify keeping it. Maybe the sending unit was either bad on the LS6 or got damaged in the process of the swap. Could this cause the oil pressure to sometimes drop so low? It only does it some of the time and rises back up at higher rpm every time. Could it be a gauge issue as well? How can I diagnose this?

 

Yeah, but with properly operating check valves it doesn't seem to be a problem. It's been perfect for me with the restrictor mod and the mcmaster check valve.

I've read it's easy to damage the sending unit when installing a manifold. Maybe that's what's going on. Do you have a mechanical gauge you can plumb in? Go get one if not.

 

What kind of oil are you guys running in your setups by the way? I was told that a good one for a turbo setup was Shell Rotella-T so that's what I was using.

 

I've tried a bunch and went back to Mobile 1 for whatever reason. I forget exactly why but I can say it has maintained good oil pressure, looks clean when I drain it and it's cheap at costco and sams.

 

I assume your running something thicker than 10w30 though, right?

 

Good info!

I run the same.

I've run 5W30 on my set-up the whole time. I got 2 yrs & over 25k miles on the set-up before I rebuilt the turbo's this spring. And I've not had any engine issues either.

 

I run the 10w30. Kit went on the car around 30k and it's approaching 90k now. I've had it five years and have driven to Chicago (16 hours straight), Houston, Miami, Atlanta... never missed a beat! love me the Incon!!!

 

I had ran some expensive Redline in there before. Maybe that was a bit overkill. I'll go back to the old tried and true Mobile 1 next time and see if it makes a difference.

Someone had asked me if I was putting in additional oil to compensate for the use by the turbos. My dipstick shows that I'm at proper operating level while running and I thought that would be fine. I have a 5.7 bottom end so how much oil do I need to put in there when I change it now?