Which reminds me, I need to update my build thread 
....... lol. 
Incon TT Master Thread (All Issues Addressed)
Incon TT Master Thread (All Issues Addressed) I just finished installing the old Incon on my car and while it's a pretty sweet kit, a lot of the tech threads on it are from years back. This kit was featured on the famous Lingenfelter TT car that raced against the jet on Car & Driver. I'm not sure of the exact date when the Incon company went out of business, but this kit seemed to be at the height of it's popularity around 2005. For a good while, if you had an f-body and wanted an out of the box TT kit, this was your only option. After doing some extensive research and coming across cablebandit's old Stage III kit for sale, I opted to get it rather than the APS option. Both kit's have issues, but it seemed that this one was better suited for my needs and goals.
That being said, I wanted to put together a thread that compiled all the knowledge and tech surrounding this kit. I know I'm not the only one on here still running this kit so hopefully this will be helpful to all of us. Hopefully some of the old Incon gurus (like cablebandit, Harlan, and barnat) will step in and throw their two cents in as well and give us some more good advice and tips they learned over the years of running this kit. This can also serve as a registry for past and current Incon owners.
Here are some helpful threads I have found over the past few months dealing with some of the issues with this kit (please feel free to add more helpful links addressing these same issues):
Installation Manual
http://www.classicgm.com/images/incon-diagrams/
Wastegate Choices/ Adjustment
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...astegates.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...questions.html
Oiling Issues
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...-question.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...-pump-kit.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...-question.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...need-pics.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...need-help.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...outing-ok.html
Turbo Service/ Rebuilds
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...send-them.html
Build Threads
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...install-3.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...ut-surely.html
http://harlan-engineering.com/incon/incon.html
That being said, I wanted to put together a thread that compiled all the knowledge and tech surrounding this kit. I know I'm not the only one on here still running this kit so hopefully this will be helpful to all of us. Hopefully some of the old Incon gurus (like cablebandit, Harlan, and barnat) will step in and throw their two cents in as well and give us some more good advice and tips they learned over the years of running this kit. This can also serve as a registry for past and current Incon owners.
Here are some helpful threads I have found over the past few months dealing with some of the issues with this kit (please feel free to add more helpful links addressing these same issues):
Installation Manual
http://www.classicgm.com/images/incon-diagrams/
Wastegate Choices/ Adjustment
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...astegates.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...questions.html
Oiling Issues
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...-question.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...-pump-kit.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...-question.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...need-pics.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...need-help.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...outing-ok.html
Turbo Service/ Rebuilds
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...send-them.html
Build Threads
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...install-3.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...ut-surely.html
http://harlan-engineering.com/incon/incon.html
Last edited by bluebird71; Aug 9, 2010 at 06:50 PM.
I just noticed a new oil problem. When my car is at idle, the oil pressure gauge drops to nearly zero. When I rev it a bit or drive it, it stays at around 40 psi. What could be causing that? Could the scavenge pump maybe not be butting oil back into the motor fast enough? The oil pressure was never an issue before the turbo install so I'm thinking it's probably not in the motor itself. What causes it to rise back up at higher rpm though?
Bump for a good idea as it seems many of us are having the same issues. The WRETCHED passenger side turbo! Are there any other kits that mount a turbo that low to where it has to pump the oil up into the oil pan? Also, if I replace the chra on mine, will that fix the issues with the seals? How detrimental is it to my car to drive it short term (approx 250 miles) with a leaking seal? My seals only seem to leak when the car's not running. On start-up, it smokes like a phene, but after it warms up, it runs just like it seems it should. I don't get it!
sounds like the checkvalve is bad. it keeps oil from leaking down into the turbos after the car is shutoff. PCV problems will make them smoke as well. If the scavenge tanks arent installed right it will smoke. The seals are metal i think....not rubber to just wear out.
The more I read on these oiling issues, the brighter my hopes become that this is a more simple fix than bad turbo needing a rebuild. I am starting to see some little flaws in my oiling setup that I need to change and it makes me feel a little bit more optimistic knowing that I'm not the only one with a leaky passenger side turbo.
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Whats up man, I meet you at a dyno day at Spectacle Solutions a couple weeks ago. I was the guy who used to go to C.B.H.S. See you still dont have your car figured out yet. Thats not your daily driver is it, lol?
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Now, back to business....
Last edited by bluebird71; Jul 5, 2010 at 10:53 AM.
While I'm thinking about it, has anyone actually completely deleted the catch cans without ANY further smoking or oiling issues? I have heard people talking about deleting them with a big scavenge pump (which is why I bought the Turbowerx in the first place), but yet I still see a lot of us having these same old problems.
so i have an incon kit that im doing...and i have talked to you bluebird71. so here is an idea which im pretty sure im going to try with a bit more research...i have two holes drilled on my oil pan. one on the driver, one on the passenger. im not sure if the driver side turbo is quite high enough to go into the oil pan by gravity flow yet but if it is...i will allow gravity to do all the work there on that side but if not my plan i believe is to take one big scavenge pump or two smaller ones. bolt behind the turbos by the lower part of the transmission(obviously lower than the turbos) as you accelerate the oil is going to go to the rear because of gravity and each scavenge pump will pump the oil back up into the pan. (also make sure your hole or holes where the oil is going back in is above the oil level in the oil pan or it wont flow properly. as for excess oil issues that are pumped through the turbos when you shut the car off...my two options for fixing this are 1. make sure your return lines are either long enough or a good size diameter. 2. put a toggle in your car for the scavenge pump/pumps to turn them on manually so after you shut your car off the oil that your turbo doesnt use doesnt just sit there and leak into your exhaust..so you would flip the toggle just before you start the car and then leave it run for a second or two after you shut the car off to pump the excess oil back into the pan. idk if this is all proven but it all makes sense and i would be kinda curious if this didnt fix these problems....
put a toggle in your car for the scavenge pump/pumps to turn them on manually so after you shut your car off the oil that your turbo doesnt use doesnt just sit there and leak into your exhaust..so you would flip the toggle just before you start the car and then leave it run for a second or two after you shut the car off to pump the excess oil back into the pan.
i see and yea that would work fine too...i like that better because that was the one thing that made me not want to do a toggle...like you said "could forget to turn it on or off" that would be way too easy to do!
wondering if you guys have to move your alternator up to the top? also has anyone moved there intercoolers to the center instead of behind the fog lights/under the bumper cover? please let me know. it would be greatly appreciated!
I had to move my alt to the top to clear some stuff. Also, I was pondering the idea of moving my IC's together to the center but I haven't seen anyone else do it.
I (finally) fixed my passenger side oil burning problems by replacing the stock check valve with the McMaster check valve (P/N 7768K51). I also am more careful to run the engine for a minute to cool down the turbos before shutting off. That seems to do it all. I've got a few thousand miles on it since and only once noticed any smoke and that was after shutting down the turbos hot. Before replacing the check valve I couldn't let it sit for a couple days without fogging for mosquitoes every time I cranked it up.
Last edited by SS2win; Jul 9, 2010 at 07:49 AM. Reason: added part number
so is your pump in the "incon location" in front of the sway bar? with all the stock incon hoses etc etc. also has everyone used teflon tape on all oil fittings or is there not a need for any of that on these incon fittings?