incon trouble, need pics!
incon trouble, need pics! My passenger side turbo is getting oil in it some how(only the passenger side). I called a turbo shop thinking maybe it's the seals that are broke, but the guy said our turbo's have a metal ring and that the chance of it being warped or broke is highly unlikely. He said something is forcing oil past the seal. He noted it could be one of three things. Excessive crankcase presure, blowby, or the oil drain isn't getting the oil out fast enough and it's backing up. I had a leakdown test done and the motor is fine, which rules out the blowby issue. I'm currently having a crankcase pressure relieving kit installed which will take care the crankcase pressure, but haven't had the chance to see if that clears up the problem. Just to have my bases covered, I'm thinking that when the turbo kit was installed, maybe the clocking of the passenger side turbo is incorrect and the oil isn't draining fast enough. I was wondering if anyone had any pics of the passenger side turbo installed in there car so I can see where the oil drain line is located. Also, I have the weldon scavenge pump that everyone recommended to replace the tilton that came with the kit. I took the weldon right out of the box and had it installed. Was there anything(like some kind of mods) that needed to be done for it to work correctly or is it like what I did, just take it out of the box and install it as is and it's good to go. Thanks for any replies in advance.
Do you have an inline restrictor for your oil feed? A lot of times that will clear up issues with the turbos getting too much oil. With the Incon kit you can put a small nitrous jet inline and that should ensure that you aren't over oiling.
As for the clocking of the turbos, I am pretty sure that with my kit I had the feeds pointed straight down, which is what you want for maximum flow. It might be worth blowing compressed air (shop air) through the lines when both sides are disconnected to make sure that there is no obstruction.
As for the clocking of the turbos, I am pretty sure that with my kit I had the feeds pointed straight down, which is what you want for maximum flow. It might be worth blowing compressed air (shop air) through the lines when both sides are disconnected to make sure that there is no obstruction.
Originally Posted by chris's ws6
My passenger side turbo is getting oil in it some how(only the passenger side). I called a turbo shop thinking maybe it's the seals that are broke, but the guy said our turbo's have a metal ring and that the chance of it being warped or broke is highly unlikely. He said something is forcing oil past the seal. He noted it could be one of three things. Excessive crankcase presure, blowby, or the oil drain isn't getting the oil out fast enough and it's backing up. I had a leakdown test done and the motor is fine, which rules out the blowby issue. I'm currently having a crankcase pressure relieving kit installed which will take care the crankcase pressure, but haven't had the chance to see if that clears up the problem. Just to have my bases covered, I'm thinking that when the turbo kit was installed, maybe the clocking of the passenger side turbo is incorrect and the oil isn't draining fast enough. I was wondering if anyone had any pics of the passenger side turbo installed in there car so I can see where the oil drain line is located. Also, I have the weldon scavenge pump that everyone recommended to replace the tilton that came with the kit. I took the weldon right out of the box and had it installed. Was there anything(like some kind of mods) that needed to be done for it to work correctly or is it like what I did, just take it out of the box and install it as is and it's good to go. Thanks for any replies in advance.
My installer thought the seals were bad on the turbo and even had to phone the turbo manufacturer, Master Power, and had some discussions with them. Ultimately, there was nothing wrong with the turbo, but with the design of the turbo being gravity-fed. The more even and consistent the system for oil-feeding, the better.
Now, my car will not even make a little puff of white smoke even under crazy WOT runs through all the gears. It took nitrous nozzles, like already suggested, AND a semi-truck duty scavenger pump to really circulate the oil around VERY efficiently. No problems now with oil, runs just like stock. Like you said, the oil isn't draining fast enough... depending on the turbo's position, I believe, this may happen more with some kits more than others. With the PTS, it happened excessively and almost immediately.
The STS's come with a scavenger pump, because obviously they really need it, and they don't have this problem that I've seen... But a front mount can also run a scavenger pump, not a problem. However, I'm almost sure it's the third option you stated, the oil not daining fast enough and getting backed up.
My email is chrisandamina@hotmail.com. Mine drains straight down as well(fed from the top and drains on the bottom and then uses a 90 degree fitting for ground clearance issues which could also be the problem since it didn't come with the kit maybe the 90 degree bend is also blocking the oil from getting out as easily also). I guess I need to use a restrictor to keep from getting to much oil in the turbo to begin with and need to switch back to a straight piece for the drain and ditch the 90 degree fitting I put on the car.Thanks for the replies.
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Check the check valve at the oil filter to make sure it is working. If it is stuck open the oil can gravity feed into the turbo after you shut off the motor. Also do you key the ignition on for a few seconds before starting? This will scavenge the oil out of the lines.
Hey cablebandit, I'm going to have to say on the feed lines. LOL
Hey cablebandit, I'm going to have to say on the feed lines. LOL
I put the restrictor between the check valve and the t-fitting that feeds the turbos. If you put it in like below it seems to fit perfectly:
xxxx/\
xxxx|| nitrous jet
xxxxx xxxxx
xxxxx xxxxx
xxxxx xxxxx t-fitting
xxxxxxxxxxxxx
xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Note: Drawings not to scale...LOL
xxxx/\
xxxx|| nitrous jet
xxxxx xxxxx
xxxxx xxxxx
xxxxx xxxxx t-fitting
xxxxxxxxxxxxx
xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Note: Drawings not to scale...LOL
Last edited by Phate; Feb 9, 2006 at 09:01 PM.
Thanks for all the replies and pics(smokinHawk).
One other huge thing. Every incon car I've been in makes full boost by 3,000rpm except mine. It hits 5#'s by 3,000 and gradually builds to full boost by 4,000rpm. My car has a blow off valve and when I let off the gas you hear it go off and then you hear it go off again but it sounds like it's coming from the driver side turbo(the second time it goes off). When the car was originally put together one actuator was opening 1.5#'s earlier than the other. One would start to open at 6.5#'s(passenger side) and the other would start to open at 5#'s(drivers side). Do you think the difference in when the actuators are opening could be causing the airflow to get messed up enough that when it flows from the turbos to the butt pipe that the air from one side is pushing against the air from the other side so much that it causes the boost to rise slowly as the pressure from each side equalizes? That is what it seems like to me since it shoots up to 5#'s and then rises slowly from there since that is where the drivers side turbo's actuator starts to open. Can there be any other reason the car would build boost like that? The actuators themselves seem to be on there good and don't have any stripped bolts some other cars have had which causes them to leak and malfunction. Any responses would be greatly appreciated.
One other huge thing. Every incon car I've been in makes full boost by 3,000rpm except mine. It hits 5#'s by 3,000 and gradually builds to full boost by 4,000rpm. My car has a blow off valve and when I let off the gas you hear it go off and then you hear it go off again but it sounds like it's coming from the driver side turbo(the second time it goes off). When the car was originally put together one actuator was opening 1.5#'s earlier than the other. One would start to open at 6.5#'s(passenger side) and the other would start to open at 5#'s(drivers side). Do you think the difference in when the actuators are opening could be causing the airflow to get messed up enough that when it flows from the turbos to the butt pipe that the air from one side is pushing against the air from the other side so much that it causes the boost to rise slowly as the pressure from each side equalizes? That is what it seems like to me since it shoots up to 5#'s and then rises slowly from there since that is where the drivers side turbo's actuator starts to open. Can there be any other reason the car would build boost like that? The actuators themselves seem to be on there good and don't have any stripped bolts some other cars have had which causes them to leak and malfunction. Any responses would be greatly appreciated.
well first thing to do would be check to see if your boost controler is working right (if you have one) then for boost leaks, then try to see if your BOV is functioning right, then check out your acutators
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Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Newmarket, Ontario
Chris's WS6
I have not been able to contact him but frcefed98 had the same problem, checking some of his posts might help, last I could find he problems were solved with:
Restrictor (0.100")
Correct PVC setup
Adjusting Downpipe??? do not know details
If you get a hold of him please post feedback.
I have not been able to contact him but frcefed98 had the same problem, checking some of his posts might help, last I could find he problems were solved with:
Restrictor (0.100")
Correct PVC setup
Adjusting Downpipe??? do not know details
If you get a hold of him please post feedback.