Finally got 76mm trunk mount single setup out, 6.000 @ 120 in the 1/8
07-28-2010, 10:11 AM
#23
Wasnt at MIR friday. I have a 3 step on the car, but its off the footbrake switch and I hadnt put an interupt switch on it yet, so just unplugged that input. Would have probably kept me from rolling out of the beams on that 6.00 pass but whatever. Need to figure out stagin procedure where to have the first limiter so it doesnt push thru the brakes, and the second one low enough that it can actually make it to it on the brake, but high enough so it has enough rpm behind it to make the boost im targeting. Boost is linear with rpm being a laggy *** mount it takes some rpm and when it does make more power, of course it flares the converter harder.
COntemplating switching to a two step because I need an ignition retard that a two step box has, no room for it with the 3 step box
COntemplating switching to a two step because I need an ignition retard that a two step box has, no room for it with the 3 step box
07-28-2010, 10:19 AM
#24
I've got my 2 step low hooked up to a 4 buck brake pressure switch in the brake lines which also triggers my brake lights and the 3 step on the transbrake. If your going to try to use single brakes in the rear, find the most agressive cold brake pad and move your brake arm so you have a 7.5-8:1 ratio. You can also stage with the transbrake, alot of turbo guys are doing it. Basically bring your RPMs up to the point where its going to push through roll in to pre-stage and plug the trans brake, you quickly release the button and press it again to bump in, your still on the brakes just not pushing the pedal through the floor.
Transbrake staging
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0RMCMvaSDco
Transbrake staging
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0RMCMvaSDco
07-28-2010, 10:38 AM
#25
I have the same switch in mine, so the brake lights are on whenever there is pressure in the lines (once I rewire it that way) Im using the factory brake switch right now. Im thinking about getting a adj pressure switch to replace that with and have the, so I dont need a interupt (otherwise whenever you touch the brakes the two step is active, doesnt work out well brake boosting it from a roll on the street or doing a burnout)
I wish Seb would get the brake staging controller done, would make it easier, not sure how quick i can get on and off the button
Its dual caliper rear Strange setup, but overall brake pressure in the system seems very low to me. Something like 700 psi front and back
I wish Seb would get the brake staging controller done, would make it easier, not sure how quick i can get on and off the button
Its dual caliper rear Strange setup, but overall brake pressure in the system seems very low to me. Something like 700 psi front and back
07-28-2010, 11:33 AM
#26
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Soooooo for us nerd types.
6L w/ forged pistons, basic H/C, butt-mount 76 (no details). Is the turbo actually in the trunk pan? Glide/3xxx stall, brake/2-step, i assume suspension is done right, on 275 DR's.
That's awesome.
6L w/ forged pistons, basic H/C, butt-mount 76 (no details). Is the turbo actually in the trunk pan? Glide/3xxx stall, brake/2-step, i assume suspension is done right, on 275 DR's.
That's awesome.
07-28-2010, 12:14 PM
#28
Replied below...
maybe you just need to move your arm higher on the pedal, measure your length of your pedal to the pivot 12-15" and measure your master cylinder arm to your pivot, 2" down on a 12" pedal is 6:1 and so forth... You need 7.5-8:1.
I have the same switch in mine, so the brake lights are on whenever there is pressure in the lines (once I rewire it that way) Im using the factory brake switch right now. Im thinking about getting a adj pressure switch to replace that with and have the, so I dont need a interupt (otherwise whenever you touch the brakes the two step is active, doesnt work out well brake boosting it from a roll on the street or doing a burnout)
Add a relay that turns the 2 step function off on the street, why would it come on during a burnout? Your line lock should be on the other side of the brake pressure switch so when you jump on the brakes and grab the LL the pressure in the rest of the system is 0 but 900psi to the front wheels only.
I wish Seb would get the brake staging controller done, would make it easier, not sure how quick i can get on and off the button
Basically you will keep 500-600psi in the brakes and just pulse the button. Its going to roll no matter what you do once the brake comes inline, usually one or 2 clicks at the most and its in the beams
Its dual caliper rear Strange setup, but overall brake pressure in the system seems very low to me. Something like 700 psi front and back
Add a relay that turns the 2 step function off on the street, why would it come on during a burnout? Your line lock should be on the other side of the brake pressure switch so when you jump on the brakes and grab the LL the pressure in the rest of the system is 0 but 900psi to the front wheels only.
I wish Seb would get the brake staging controller done, would make it easier, not sure how quick i can get on and off the button
Basically you will keep 500-600psi in the brakes and just pulse the button. Its going to roll no matter what you do once the brake comes inline, usually one or 2 clicks at the most and its in the beams
Its dual caliper rear Strange setup, but overall brake pressure in the system seems very low to me. Something like 700 psi front and back
07-28-2010, 12:39 PM
#29
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Oh man thats a good idea using that space vs. just a block off plate.
I think everyone would be interested in seeing some pictures. its great to see/learn about these set ups that are more one off.
so...in the hatch...any concern with heat and oil in that area? just using the fuzzy divider still? there can't be carpet right?
I think everyone would be interested in seeing some pictures. its great to see/learn about these set ups that are more one off.
so...in the hatch...any concern with heat and oil in that area? just using the fuzzy divider still? there can't be carpet right?
