What kind of oil do you recommend?
08-21-2010, 06:25 PM
#22
what do you guys do for break in? I have heard that first start up should run to operating temp and then drain and replace. then run for 50 miles and drain again and then 500 and drain and should be good to go? and to not use syn until after 500,
08-22-2010, 08:29 AM
#23
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Thanks guys very good input i guess ill just put the recommended 5w30 mobile 1 and call it a day.I live in michigan and will drive the car in 30deg weather as longs as its dry out it will get driven and that intercooler loves freezing temps more power!
08-30-2010, 02:44 PM
#24
Your viscosity should be chosen for the enviroment and milage (wear) your engine has. If the engine does not have an external oil cooler you should stick with a synthetic oil because it will handle the heat better. The LS engines oil pan do not reject heat from the oil as well as the older engines oil pans did. The oil temps are naturaly higher in LS engines. Not to forget that now you have introduced another heat sorce the oil has to cool. As far as brands go, what ever floats your boat. Every one will have their own opinion on this. Stick to the major brands, you will not go wrong.
I personaly run a non synthetic VR1 20w-50 oil. But my engine is built with more clearence then stock (for racing), it has forged pistons instead of stock hyperutectic ones (much more clearence), I live an a brutal heat area, I do control oil temps, and I change my oil about every 500 miles, not to mention my oil system holds 12 quarts. I also do not run the engine for extended periods of time.
Aplication, enviroment, built (worn) clearence, cooling, and capasity will be different for different people and should be taken into account when selecting the correct oil. I am sure I have left something out.
I personaly run a non synthetic VR1 20w-50 oil. But my engine is built with more clearence then stock (for racing), it has forged pistons instead of stock hyperutectic ones (much more clearence), I live an a brutal heat area, I do control oil temps, and I change my oil about every 500 miles, not to mention my oil system holds 12 quarts. I also do not run the engine for extended periods of time.
Aplication, enviroment, built (worn) clearence, cooling, and capasity will be different for different people and should be taken into account when selecting the correct oil. I am sure I have left something out.
08-30-2010, 10:58 PM
#25
I am too lazy to do that really. Usaually when it gets taken out it gets beat on pretty good, not to mention I do not have a traditional PCV system, because it is boosted I just vent the crankcase to atmospher and it gets alot of cycling temperature wise, this causes mosture to build faster then normal, not to mention the high ambient temps here. Last but really the biggest reason is I am anaul with the oil. Mostly anaul about everything with the car. 
09-01-2010, 08:41 PM
#29
I am looking at VR1. My local NAPA carries straight 50w and 20-50. What would you guys rec for a new motor and break in? Temps will still be around 80 here. I will change often
09-02-2010, 09:57 AM
#31
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Built vs. worn Thicker oil is NOT a good choice for a wornout stock engine. A engine with built in large racing clearances is the only good choice.An older engine may have some loose clearances,but the one that are still within factory specs will be starved with thick oil.
