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How to make sdce tensioner

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Old 04-11-2011, 03:40 PM
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bump.
Old 04-11-2011, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by ChevyChad
I'm very surprised at the lack of attention in this thread. Seems like a great DIY project for someone with the time to research it firsthand.
Get on it Mr. Budget Belt wrap
Old 04-11-2011, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by eLiT3SnIpEz
Get on it Mr. Budget Belt wrap
I would, but dont even have my car at the moment
Old 10-17-2014, 09:46 AM
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back from the dead , im looking to get a new tensioner for my sdce setup and they said its 150 for it , the one at autozone isnt the same . Im assuming like someone said they made theirs tension backwards.

Just sucks to have to spend 150 on a tensioner . price to play i guess.
Old 10-17-2014, 12:36 PM
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got the part number from conan
autozone part , duralast brand 305201 47.99 at the moment

he said he used it and it worked, have to cut it shorter and drill and tap a hole but i can do that .
Old 10-18-2014, 10:11 AM
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I bought a kit and a jbracket from a member here who got it from superman09 and my tensioner works that way. Its just cut off and the pulley is on the opposite side with a bolt and an aluminum standoff tube. I will try to post some pics of it. Its off the car and hasnt been tried for fitment yet as I havent done the engine swap or procharger install yet.
Old 10-18-2014, 10:44 AM
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Washer to help hold standoff tube square to bracket during use.
Old 10-18-2014, 10:46 AM
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I added a washer with a flat side gorund into it to help hold the bracket from spipping around and loosing tension when in use. DK if it will work yet but should help.
Old 10-18-2014, 10:49 AM
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Old 10-18-2014, 10:58 AM
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One of the pics shows where we had to redrill the hole due to the member that I bought it from drilling it on a slight angle and too big to tap correctly. I had a steel flanged insert made to tap new threads into and the jbracket milled out to accept the insert. The insert was knurled and pressed in so it dosent turn and the steel threads asure they wont be stripped out under extreme tightening. You have to get the nut on the back side of the tensioner very tight to hold the tensioner body from rotating into the relaxed position when the arm is pulled on with Channel lock pliers. Pulling on the arm with pliers simulates belt tension when the engine is running. I came up with grinding the flat side on the washer to lock the tensioner body from turning when under pressure. The washer is roughly 1/4 to 5/16" thick so it has a good shoulder for the bracket body to grab against. Again, I havent tried this on for fittment but it should work perfectly using the pliers from up top to put the blower belt on. Hope this helps some of you guys out. Any ?'s, ideas, ect?

Last edited by JRENIGAR; 10-18-2014 at 11:06 AM.



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