Does your vented catch can smoke?
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Fairfax, Virginia
Does your vented catch can smoke? How much, if any, do your all's vented catch cans vent out blow by smoke? I have a vented can with -10AN lines running off the valve covers. It smokes pretty good on cold start until the rings heat up. But even after fully hot, some smoke still comes out. It just looks bad when I'm at a stop light or in traffic and you see smoke coming out of the hood. Am I getting excessive smoke or is it just the nature of it?
add a vac source to it. Run a line from the header it will pull the vapors away from it. If u add a vac source befor the maf it wont show as a vacume leak. But the constant draw of arir will keep the fumes down.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Fairfax, Virginia
I may of not properly seated the rings with this new motor because I was dealing with headgasket and running issues right off the bat. I filed the ring gaps pretty big and everything is forged anyways. I get the most smoke when my temperature gauge starts to creep high from sitting in traffic.
So about adding a vacuum source.. Do I need to run a line to the exhaust AND the intake, or just one or the other? No MAF here, Speed Density tuned. My catch can is a Moroso vented can with two -10AN bungs on it. Would I put a check valve in-line to the intake pipe to prevent a boost leak?
So about adding a vacuum source.. Do I need to run a line to the exhaust AND the intake, or just one or the other? No MAF here, Speed Density tuned. My catch can is a Moroso vented can with two -10AN bungs on it. Would I put a check valve in-line to the intake pipe to prevent a boost leak?
at idle there should be very little to no blowby-if you have smakoe coming out of your breather at idle you have excessive blowby,usually caused by out of round cylinders.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Fairfax, Virginia
Man I would hope I don't have out of round cylinders. It was bored and honed with a plate for the 383 stroker. About 300 miles on the motor. It was just at your shop Shawn, so you might of saw it. I think I didn't get to seat the rings very well. But it's not exactly easy to tear the motor down again and put new rings in it. Would changing to a different oil help any? I'm running Rotella T 15w40 non synthetic.
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Verdad Gallardo Man I would hope I don't have out of round cylinders. It was bored and honed with a plate for the 383 stroker. About 300 miles on the motor. It was just at your shop Shawn, so you might of saw it. I think I didn't get to seat the rings very well. But it's not exactly easy to tear the motor down again and put new rings in it. Would changing to a different oil help any? I'm running Rotella T 15w40 non synthetic.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Fairfax, Virginia
I would rather let this motor blow up then go through the agony of tearing down the motor and re-doing the cylinders.
How can I change my crankcase vent system so I won't see the smoke?
How can I change my crankcase vent system so I won't see the smoke?
Just add a vac line in the in take, and attach it to the breather. Be sure to put it as close to the breather as possible. If your intkae has a stock provision for pcv then u can use that.
I'm with Shawn on this one.
My mutant build was initially WAY off with the tune for the first hour or two of run time and I do not have ANY visible smoke at idle.
I empty the catch can after every tank of fuel and there is no oil coming out of it, just condensation that reeks of E85.
A friend of mine is having similar issues as yourself, and I would have to bet that there is some power being lost due to excessive blowby.
My mutant build was initially WAY off with the tune for the first hour or two of run time and I do not have ANY visible smoke at idle.
I empty the catch can after every tank of fuel and there is no oil coming out of it, just condensation that reeks of E85.
A friend of mine is having similar issues as yourself, and I would have to bet that there is some power being lost due to excessive blowby.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Fairfax, Virginia
You know what, it may just be water vapor. No oil in the catch can. I was getting nothing but water this whole time, but not as much lately. I've been having issues with my head studs leaking coolant. I used teflon paste on the studs in the block but all of my studs for some reason starting leaking coolant shortly after. I used GM Sealing tabs and it pretty much plugged up the leaking studs. I thought I was in the clear because my oil doesn't get milky anymore. I did a coolant pressure test recently and saw I still have a small leak. So I'm going to do the pressure test again with the valve covers off and see if any studs are still leaking. What i'm thinking is those few drops of water coming out of the stud(s) are burning off and causing the smoke.
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Fairfax, Virginia
Tonight did not end well. First thing I did when I came home was pull the valve covers off and pressurize the radiator. Let it sit for an hour and a half while I changed the oil to 5w40 synthetic. Over that time the pressure gauge bleed down no more than 0.5psi. So I guess whatever was leaking is good now. Put it back together and got it hot (170*), then open up the coolant bleeder screw just to make sure no air was trapped. I have a 160* thermostat so it's suppose to stay around 170*. Drive it around the residential areas and the coolant temp gauge starts to creep up past 170* again. Keep in mind, I've been having an issue with keeping it cool at idle and slow driving with this new engine and turbo setup. So I just cruise at like 50mph for a little and it's cools back down. Well then I came to a stop and all of a sudden my temp gauge jumps from ~180* to ~230*.. then up to 260*
. Pop the hood and nothing smoking up or boiling sound so I thought the temp gauge wire must of burnt on the header or something. Drove it straight home, which was right down the road. Pop the hood and found the overflow reservoir spewed coolant everywhere and was filled to the top. WTF!I'm thinking the thermostat failed closed. I'm going to completely drain the radiator and block to get out all the left over GM Sealing tabs.
Btw, I have two Spal 11" curved blade low profile fans. Pullers and they are flowing the correct direction. No A/C condensor.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Fairfax, Virginia
yes, that is what its there for, it will work fine, but you will have to put the stock oil cap back on, or you will be sucking unmetered air, and using the vent as an additional air filter...
although on mine i'm capping it and running a breather (vented) tank and eliminating the chance of oil ingestion entirely..
although on mine i'm capping it and running a breather (vented) tank and eliminating the chance of oil ingestion entirely..
