TracyRR

iTrader: (8)

well, i'm going to keep the same pump gas timing table and run race gas when i'm on the dyno next time. Thanks!

qqwqeqwrqwqtq

Yes, keep your current turbos. They are good for over 1000rwhp so if you aren't making power a turbo swap isn't going to do much for you.

TracyRR

iTrader: (8)

i was not giving up on these turbo's but i have a buddy that wants to buy them and i wanted to get a bit larger turbo for even more power. I think i would hit my 800rwhp goal with the turbo's i have but i (as usual, always want more).... he he... INTMD8, are you saying the turbo's i have are the best turbo's i can install on this combo? If i end up racing the car, it will be the TX mile..... Less interested in drag racing. Thanks!

dudeiwin86

iTrader: (1)

youre gonna be upset when you spend all the time and money swapping turbos and dont make any more power because you still havnt get rid of youre knock retard.

TracyRR

iTrader: (8)

I will get rid of my kr but i have to diagnose it while on the dyno with my tuners help.

I'm certainly not knocking my gt35r's.... they are a bad *** turbo, i'm just looking to upgrade while i have a buyer for them. My turbo's have performed flawlessly from day one.... i just had to de-bug everything around the turbo's. All points have been well taken and appreciated. Before i buy anything or not, i just want to get enough research done and enough guru opinions. I really appreciate everyone's input. My options are to keep my turbo's, get 6262's or get 6265's. Exhaust housing options are .63 or .82's. Thanks!

mdbreaux

Tracy, I will send you my cam spec sheet because I produced 1008 RWHP on a 6.0L 402ci with 13 psi boost and GM heads stage 3 from TEA. I had to run only 7psi on the street for obvious reasons. That alone produced around 700 RWHP. And that was with the stock computer, tuned of course, and 95 pound injectors. I had 8.5:1 pistons. I would recommend 9:1 to 9.5:1. I just changed to 9.2:1 and kept my same cam.

TracyRR

iTrader: (8)

Update: i swapped the gr35r's for some precision 6262's and finally got to dyno today. This is not meant to be a back to back comparo but just an update. The bottom line is at the same boost (193kpa or 13.6 pounds at peak power) it picked up approx 17 rwhp, 655rwhp at 6250..... but the most impressive thing for me was the peak rpm was at 6250. If you recall, i couldn't get the previous turbo's to rpm well.... they would start dropping power at around 5300rpm. These 6262's kept pulling and didn't loose steam. I think the potential to make a lot more power is there... I did have an issue with my boost controller today so i was not able to crank my damn boost up higher but i'm happy with my low boost results. Exhaust backpressure (pre-turbo) was 1.7:1 and my boost pressure at the turbo was 21 pounds while the motor was only 13.6 pounds so i'm going to look for boost leaks tomorrow... My goal is 800+ rwhp with 20 pounds of boost or less so i'm sloooowly creaping up on it! Also wanted to mention that i still fought with KR today..... It is the exact same thing i struggled with last time. I stepped up to a slightly colder plug ngk 7 non projected tip... i had some ngk 6's in there before and they looked great with no evidence of detonation. I even mixed some sunoco 112 (33% mix) with my 93 octane in addition to a bunch of meth and it still showed knock. The tune was the same pump gas tune i had before with 15 total timing. With 8.7:1 compression, i think it is very safe on timing. I am going to go on a limb and say it is false knock. IAT were great at 22 C. I'll get there one day guys! ha ha... thanks t

TracyRR

iTrader: (8)

Rear mount guys need all the help we can get so this thread continues onto another thread.....

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...ates-help.html

SPRAYED 01

iTrader: (22)

You should lock that converter next time on the dyno. Its alot easier to tune and you might see a huge power differancE

Monte4ever

iTrader: (2)

For what its worth, you're quoted as saying a knock is a knock. I may be wrong but I believe that knock sensors are tuned to pickup a specific frequency; therefore they'd may not pickup the sound of a noisy rocker arm which is why you didn't see a change when you changed pushrods.

TracyRR

iTrader: (8)

I was all set to lock it up on the dyno until i read someone had issues with locking one up so i chickened out....

Well, it was actually real knock..... i'm lucky i didn't detonate the motor because i was about to kill the knock sensors on the dyno to make a clean pull.... I chickened out on that one too and i'm glad i did.....ha ha... it turned out to be oil in the intercooler.... It wasn't much oil but enough to set off the knock sensors when under boost. This has been one huge learning curve as i'm new to boost but i am enjoying the hell out of it!! I think i have it about where it should be on power and it is a beast!! It is so much fun to drive this car everyday! This is an awesome forum, i appreciate all of the knowledge that everyone shares.

Monte4ever

iTrader: (2)

Same here. What's the power looking like now with the oil out of the intercooler?

TracyRR

iTrader: (8)

I just completed a new rear twin mount system and i hope to be around 900 at the tire at around 23 pounds or so. With my previous system (assuming no oil in the charge side and i could have kept the backpressure down), it should have been close to 750 - 800 with the same 20+ pounds. I will find out what my new system puts out pretty soon..... i'm itching for some big numbers!

ModularTurbo

iTrader: (14)

imagine what 6765's would do....

call me lets discuss it.

TracyRR

iTrader: (8)

If i would have known i could have improved the spool as much as i did, i would have bought the 6765's..... Where do my 6262's max out and where do the 6765's max out? p.s.. do you take trade in's.... ha ha

ModularTurbo

iTrader: (14)

I was reading through this entire thread and I was impressed by your level of motivation when it came to troubleshooting the problem.
I think that this is a classic case of a back pressure problem and this thread will definitely influenced certain decisions that we make in the future.

As far as 6262's go I know a bunch of guys that have hit 700whp with them in a single setup with that being said we cannot simply double that number. I would expect that if back pressure is not a concern then you should be able to eclipse 1000whp.

FYI our turbo kits come with P trim turbine wheeled turbos, which is the next step up turbine wheel wise from the 62mm turbine. The P trim wheel which has the following size: ind. 74.5mm by exd. 64mm appears to lend itself quite well in a twin configuration on LS type engines in horsepower ranges between 500-1200hp +/- ???.

I had a customer a year ago that went from P trim MP T70's to Q trim TC76's and though he picked up a few mph he lost ET. He then tried P trim 76's and not only did he gain even more mph but he got his ET back and then some.
This was a 400+cid SBC and I believe the car went from high 9's to low 9's.

I'm sorry but I can't take a trade in.

thanks for reading,
Rob Josvai

TracyRR

iTrader: (8)

Thanks rob! Do the 67's have a P trim? What trim do my turbo's have? I'm guessing the larger the trim, the less chance of backpressure? still learning.....

I just ran a backpressure test with my new completed twin system and it is 1.7:1 at 14 pounds of boost..... I realize it will continue to rise as boost increases but it is pretty descent for a rear mount. This was the first chance i had to blast the car with the new system and it is much stronger than the old system! The old system used to break the tires loose in second gear at around 18 - 19 pounds and now it breaks them loose at 14 pounds! I'm running toyo 335/18 r888's. The spool up is much quicker.... before it used to start building boost at around 3500 rpm and now it starts at around 2800 rpm! It feels like a different car!

ModularTurbo

iTrader: (14)

You'll have to forgive my nomenclature I tend to use my own language at times when it comes to turbo talk. Here is a consensus of what is what.

The different companies that make turbos have similar names and sizes of their parts for example:

Precision 62mm (6262 or any turbo ending in 62)
Turbonetics 62mm (F1 62 wheel)
Masterpower 58.5mm (o-trim wheel)
Garrett 60mm (GT3076R)

these could all be called O trim wheels, their inducer size is also different as well. Generally speaking though they are in the same size "family".

Then in the "P-trim family"

Precision 65mm (6765 or any turbo ending in 65)
Turbonetics 65mm (F1 65 wheel)
Masterpower 64.5mm (P-trim wheel)
Garrett 64mm (GT3271R)

Then in the "Q-trim family"

Precision 68mm (6768 or any turbo ending in 68)
Turbonetics 68mm (F1 68 wheel) TC76 and TC78
Masterpower 67mm (Q-trim wheel)
Garrett 68mm (GT3582R)

Well at least that is how I break it down my own understanding.

TracyRR

iTrader: (8)

Thanks a bunch for explaining the trim sizes.... makes a little more sense now.

Boosted One

iTrader: (6)

I may give you a call about them myself. I'm considering upgrading my 6265's to the 6765's.

Great work TracyRR, it's nice to see your persistance in troubleshooting something that is generally overlooked in turbo builds!

Frank