LS6427

iTrader: (2)

For a Trans Am.....which works better?

Also, when a FMIC is used, does the heat going through it blow straight back and directly into the condensor??? Or is there something inbetween the two?

For the Twin side mounted.....where does the heat coming off them go?

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TrippyJoey

iTrader: (1)

Check the link on post #2.
Twins is the way I'm planning on going on my set up.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...ler-setup.html

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Thanks....looks like alot more fabbing for twin side mounts.

Anyone ever try using the windshield washer containers hooked to one of those outside misters for the patio or pool deck...to spray in front of the intercooler during a run? It would be seriously easy and cheap to hook up to a valve with an on/off button.
I would think that would drastically drop IAT's..........

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blue00ZZleeper

iTrader: (5)

Water spray isnt a good idea as its not good for traction. Just run methanol and get the IAT drop even more then the water/intercooler mist setup. That idea has come up a couple times and general idea is that its not very safe. I saw an IAT drop from high 80*'s down to 38* spraying methanol...also provides a lot more octane then pump gas.

96TurboLSX

iTrader: (2)

I dont think the track officials would like you spraying anything other than co2 on the track

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

The mist would go through the intercooler, then through the condensor, then through the hot radiator. I wouldn't think a single drop or trace of water would ever reach the engine much less the track.

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blue00ZZleeper

iTrader: (5)

I guess. Its just frowned upon. Just spray methanol and get octane and temp drops. By the time all is said and done with plumbing and nozzles and such with the chance for danger I wouldnt mess with it.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I can care less about race tracks and rules.........it would be a 100% street car.

How about spraying c02 in front of a radiator..............? How long would a small bottle last spraying a mist-like amount over the front surface only for runs.

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LS6427

iTrader: (2)

How long does a fill of meth last...considering a typical sized tank?

Where does the tank go, under hood???

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tpunk

iTrader: (8)

Look up alky control. They use a modified washer reservoir and it has a low level sensor and all kinds of other goodies. Not cheap but it is awesome.

TrippyJoey

iTrader: (1)

Yes it's a lot of fabbing, I'm having a local race shop help me with my build. Also as mentioned before spraying water would not be a good idea. Instead run a CO2 spray, you can fill it at any paintball shop.

If it's just for street then save the hassle run low boost something in the 4psi range, and if you are using turbos wrap them up in a turbo insulation kit to keep underhood temps low and keep the heat were it's required.

96TurboLSX

iTrader: (2)

I wouldnt want to be spraying water under my car even if it was a 100% street car. Big power + lots of money invested + water = seems to be a pretty bad idea. maybe thats just me though.

dlandsvZ28

The Alky Control Kit includes an alcohol tank identical in size and configuration to the stock washer tank and it replaces the stock windshield washer tank (see link with pic of tank and hose from pump running into the intake pipe -SD tune). Alky sells a small plastic tank you can install to replace the washer tank if you decide you need it. I didn't as my car is just a weekend cruiser. If an emergency occurs where I absolutely have to wash the windshield because of poor visibility I'll stop and clean the windshield with a rag and window cleaner that I carry in the trunk.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7623345499537/

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

So thats where alky/meth are injected, right before the charge air goes into the intake????

Seems simple enough.

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tpunk

iTrader: (8)

I'm pretty sure you want to inject it before the IAT sensor so it gets a proper reading of the air temp.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Yup, I would have guessed immediately after the charge air leaves the intercooler to start cooling it asap.......but I have no idea....lol

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NightHawk

iTrader: (1)

Seems like people are getting better results from FMIC than dual side mounted...you hear about people switching from the twin ICs in the procharger or whatever supercharger kit that came with them over to a single FMIC.


No, it does not. There is a piece of ducting that seperates the area behind the front fasica and the area where the condenser/radiator are. So it would go front fascia--> intercooler--> air dam ducting--> condenser-->radiator.

tpunk

iTrader: (8)

No, it does not. There is a piece of ducting that seperates the area behind the front fasica and the area where the condenser/radiator are. So it would go front fascia--> intercooler--> air dam ducting--> condenser-->radiator.[/QUOTE]

Unless you mount the IC like the APS kit did, then it is directly in front of the condenser. Still the APS guys don't have any issues with that arrangement. Treadstone now makes a single inlet IC similar to the APS IC.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

So the air goes through the hot FMIC, then that hot air is directed downward where it then goes back upward with outside air via the air dam into the condensor???

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dlandsvZ28

Since the AC condensor slants backward more at the top than the bottom and the plastic shrouding does as well - it's probably more likely that the air will move up following the path of least resistance and perhaps into the engine bay rather than down.

The pics are of an EPP fmic kit on my Camaro. I have since added custom aluminum pipe to reduce weight and rust on the inside of the steel pipe. I removed the stock plastic shrouding in front of the AC condensor and mounted two 12 inch pusher fans on the face of the ac condensor. After the addition of the pusher fans all of my overheating problems went away.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/18359304@N07/4983457258/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/18359304@N07/4983456092/

There are posts telling me that the pusher fans won't work and defy logic but it works. 'Trust' tried it and it worked and solved his overheating problems as well.

If hot air from the FMIC is a concern you could attach more baffling behind the FMIC which might direct hot air from the fmic out through the bumper on either side.

But IMO the stock shrouding reduces air to the AC condensor and ultimately the radiator after the stock air filter assembly is removed.

IMO the shrouds main purpose was to aid in creating a semi enclosed cavity (much like a vacuum cleaner) directing air up to the air filter and into the throttle body and manifold. Ever notice all of the small sand and grit and debris in the filter when you clean it. It got there because of the terrific suction of the engine (an air pump) in conjuction with the ram effect of the air dam.

Because of the draw of the engine (pump) and the ram effect of the air dam more fresh air got to the AC condensor as well with some of the air drawn through the AC condensor and through the radiator which aided in better cooling.

Proof of this is that you will rarely get overheating with the AC off. Turn the AC on and the hot AC air sucked off into the radiator will elevate temps to 220 or more in city driving in a heartbeat.

Since the stock air filter housing assembly is removed with the installation of an ATI SC there no longer is any draw from the engine. As a result, IMO, the removal is the 'real' cause of borderline overheating after the installation of an ATI SC. Of course removing one 12 inch fan and blocking off half of the radiator on the driver's side like the ATI system does - doesn't help matters either.

The climate you live in also has an effect on overheating with an ATI system. Cars that are driven in areas that never see over a hundred degress every day for perhaps a month or two might do just fine with one ATI fan with AC still intact. But bring the car south into Kansas, OKlahoma, Texas, or Arizona - I can pretty much assure your car will overheat.


Bottom line - it depends on:
Where you live.
FMIC or twin ATI intercoolers.
One 16 inch ATI fan or a 16 inch fan and a 9 inch fan
Stock radiator or a 97 style or BeCool or Griffin.
AC is intact and used or removed.
Amount of boost.
Running alky kit or not
Over 700 rwhp or under
Camaro or Pontiac (you have to hack the bumper more)

Craft a way to leave the stock shrouding in place and direct all air back to the ATI SC air filter and you will sove two problems 1) good source of air to the air filter 2) suction to get a good supply of ambient air to the ac condensor.