New build/combo..F1/370 Dyno Vids/results MORE BOOST!
10-05-2010, 09:36 PM
#23
Well I talked to guys at SNL performance today and let me say that their customer service is AMAZING!...the first thing they said when they looked at the pictures was where do you want a new disk sent! Bump for a great sponsor! I will take better pics and post them up.
10-05-2010, 11:45 PM
#24
I will demand an idle vid and in in car acceleration vid when all is said and done of course
10-06-2010, 12:32 AM
#25
Noted...we'll make that happen...lol...I looks like it should sound pretty agressive. Running the meth outta keep IAT's down and the blower rpm will be right where shes designed for so I hope its ok there. The only problem is the trans at the moment...I need to come up with the $$$ to build it lol
10-06-2010, 12:43 AM
#26
A stock T56 can handle up to ~900 hp before it breaks. Ask Tiago, he went through like 5 before he put in an auto in his TT TA. His were stockers too. I think you might surprise yourself and your trans will hold up quite well. Or you could snag a nicely priced 4L80E, slap a TansGo HD-2 Shift kit on it with some new clutches and call it a day. I can't wait till this thing is finished, I'm really looking forward to seeing the finished result haha. You'll have to give me advice on installing prochargers sometime in the next year or so ;]
I can't wait till this thing is finished, I'm really looking forward to seeing the finished result haha. You'll have to give me advice on installing prochargers sometime in the next year or so ;]
10-10-2010, 07:31 PM
#27
Well not to much new news here. I need poly motor mounts and some assorted gaskets and such to finish up the motor. I put on the valley cover/knock sensors, rocker arms/pushrods. Going to put in new front and rear main seals and throw the covers on. I'm going to paint the pan aluminum and put her on. Main problem is still the trans. I also want to cut out the Rad. support a little bit to stand up the radiator. Any suggestions on how to go about doing it? Also need to pin the dampner.
10-11-2010, 12:06 AM
#30
I think once I get it sorted out I'll look into E-85. I also heard some rumors that they have a proposition in CA to get rid of fuels like E-85 as well so I'll need to watch that before I switch. It would be pretty bad *** to switch though. I should hopefully get the trans finished up within the next week or two. I want to figure out the radiator situation as well.
10-12-2010, 10:20 PM
#32
With a D1SC and the truck inlet hat you should not need to move the radiator. The truck hat fit with some wiggle room to spare on mine. I have not touched the radiator support or the fan shroud.
The stock fuel line will only get you to about 700 give or take. Mine couldn't keep up with the demand at about that and pressure was starting to fall off. I just got done running a new feed and converted the stock line to a return with a new regulator up front.
Since you have the iron block, don't forget to drill and tap the top alternator mounting position since that is the third mounting point for the Procharger bracket. It doesn't look like it has been done in the pictures you posted.
Max the blower out, with the meth and if your fuel holds up it should be more than capable of passing your 730hp goal.
The stock fuel line will only get you to about 700 give or take. Mine couldn't keep up with the demand at about that and pressure was starting to fall off. I just got done running a new feed and converted the stock line to a return with a new regulator up front.
Since you have the iron block, don't forget to drill and tap the top alternator mounting position since that is the third mounting point for the Procharger bracket. It doesn't look like it has been done in the pictures you posted.
Max the blower out, with the meth and if your fuel holds up it should be more than capable of passing your 730hp goal.
10-13-2010, 12:03 AM
#33
Yea I still need to drill and tap it. How far in do I need to go? I'll check the studs with a thread pitch gauge. I'll need one of your blower bracket's as well here soon. I plan on running the stock feed with a FPR and use the evap line as a return for a bandaide for now. I guess I'll just go with the truck inlet then...seems to work without to much modification. Any other advice or ideas?
10-13-2010, 12:24 AM
#34
The hole is M10 x 1.5 thread pitch. I'm not sure on the depth you need to go, check the bottom hole that is already there, if it is through then go the same thickness of the piece of the block, otherwise stick a toothpick or something in there for it.
I still have one here.
You might have to tweak the intercooler piping a little with the truck hat since it angles the filter toward the front of the bumper.
I still have one here.
You might have to tweak the intercooler piping a little with the truck hat since it angles the filter toward the front of the bumper.
10-17-2010, 04:15 PM
#36
Well I did a lot of research on the drilling and tapping. I'm not 100% sure which spot you guys are talking about. I know I need to drill and tap the bung by the Alt. L bracket under the driverside head. Is there another spot? A buddy and I were looking at the mounting bracket and how it mounts. We're looking at taking a piece of rod, drilling and tapping it and welding it to the block where the top Alt. bolt goes through. That will give us the 3rd mounting point. I also want to look at making a bracket to bolt to either the head or water pump that will bolt to the idler pully bracket. Any suggestions? I'll try to highlite it in the pics.
I'll take a couple more photos of what I'm talking about.
I'll take a couple more photos of what I'm talking about.
10-17-2010, 04:20 PM
#37
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A stock T56 can handle up to ~900 hp before it breaks. Ask Tiago, he went through like 5 before he put in an auto in his TT TA. His were stockers too. I think you might surprise yourself and your trans will hold up quite well. Or you could snag a nicely priced 4L80E, slap a TansGo HD-2 Shift kit on it with some new clutches and call it a day. I can't wait till this thing is finished, I'm really looking forward to seeing the finished result haha. You'll have to give me advice on installing prochargers sometime in the next year or so ;]
I can't wait till this thing is finished, I'm really looking forward to seeing the finished result haha. You'll have to give me advice on installing prochargers sometime in the next year or so ;]stock-t-56?
yeah.definitely.not.his.weren't.stock.either.
Chad
10-17-2010, 04:31 PM
#38
In the first picture the tab right behind the top alternator hole is where the hole is supposed to be as far as I can tell.
Here is a picture of my block. The tab on the right hand side of the picture a little bit down from the right side of the head. In you pictures this spot does not have the hole. I am not sure if there are any others needed or not.
Here is a picture of my block. The tab on the right hand side of the picture a little bit down from the right side of the head. In you pictures this spot does not have the hole. I am not sure if there are any others needed or not.
10-17-2010, 04:35 PM
#39
Now for the experimental stuff lol. First pic is of the mounting spots. The other pics are of the idler pulley and where I want to fab another bracket to bolt up to either the water pump or head.
The white dot is where I know I need to drill and tap. The red dot is where the bolt goes through the upper Alt. mounting holt. Thats where I want to weld the bung, drill and tap it. Then I can run a bolt through it which will make the bracket more stable. Also, if it was to flex to much, it would just break the weld and the block would be intact. I think I saw that people drilled where the red dot is? If so I dont think thats a good idea. I wouldnt want to drill into the water jacket or if the bracket flexed to much, break the block or pull the threads out.
The white dot is where I know I need to drill and tap. The red dot is where the bolt goes through the upper Alt. mounting holt. Thats where I want to weld the bung, drill and tap it. Then I can run a bolt through it which will make the bracket more stable. Also, if it was to flex to much, it would just break the weld and the block would be intact. I think I saw that people drilled where the red dot is? If so I dont think thats a good idea. I wouldnt want to drill into the water jacket or if the bracket flexed to much, break the block or pull the threads out.
10-17-2010, 04:43 PM
#40
Also got to pin the crank, put the front/rear covers on and bolted up the pan. Spent most of the time pondering the blower bracket situation. Aster, does your bracket mout up the same way? I dont want to do wall this work and yours mounts different. Whats your bracket made out of? Aluminimum or steel?