Hey guys, just ordered some new parts to get my LS1 fixed up and rebuilt and was wondering if some of you could chime in on my build and let me know what will or won't work and what I should change if anything.
I will be running a modified STS rear mount turbo setup pushing 8 lbs on the street. So around 500-550rwhp. The motor will be overkill for that but I want a bulletproof motor that can handle my future goals. Just want to make sure everything will fit together and that I have my parts list completed. Also wondering if I should upgrade anything else.

Fuel system

Walbro 255 fuel pump
Siemens 60 lb high impedance injectors
Stock everything else, will upgrade to a dual pump setup once I want to push it more

Transmission
LS7 clutch kit with steel flywheel (picked it up from a friend for $200 ) I doubt it will last terribly long but I've heard these can actually handle a surprising amount of power. Once I need an upgrade, it'll be time for a level 3 Monster.
New pilot bearing
New slave and master cylinders
New rear output seal

Suspension
Subframe connectors
Boxed control arms
BMR torque arm with driveshaft loop.

Valvetrain
TSP 7.400" hardened pushrods
LS7 lifters with LS2 lifter trays
LS6 yellow valvesprings
Stock '98 heads cleaned and resurfaced
ARP head bolts
PCV system delete. Running 3/8" fittings from each valve cover to a vented catch can.

Shortblock
Stock cubed rebuilt '98 LS1. Cleaned, decked, honed, etc.
Diamond -8.6cc dished pistons with rings and wrist pins. 3.905" bore.
6.125" Scat I-beam connecting rods with ARP rod bolts
Federal Mogul cam bearings
Federal Mogul '98 gasket kit from Summit
Clevite "P" main and connecting rod bearings
LS2 timing chain
Ported Melling oil pump

Rear End
Stock. Awaiting death.

Car weighs in at 3300 lbs right now. Any advice I could get would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!
Also, I'm a tightass. So if you're going to tell me that I need to get a $1200 Ram dual clutch, we're probably speaking different languages.

 

If I were you, I would get the Tick-performance "adjustable clutch master cylinder kit", and the newer slave cylinder off the 02' fbodys. Just good insurance for your hydraulics to work right while you bang dem gears !

 

I was considering that but wasn't sure if it was worth the extra cash over a new stock one. I've seen a lot of people on here love the things.

 

Any more info on the engine? Cam, lift, TB, intake, 853 Heads? Yellow LS6/2 springs on a Turbo cam?

 

As far as the pilot bearing is concerned, If I were you I would go with a bronze pilot bushing from say, an 87 chevrolet silverado. When those pilot bearings go bad they can chew up your input shaft, If a bushing goes it will chew up the soft bushing material. Alot of backyard mechanics are doing transmission swaps in their driveways with the car on jack stands. It doesnt take a whole lot of force stabbing that transmission to mess up the pilot bearing.

If you are just starting the forced induction scene, make sure you have the tune spot on. Tuning is going to make or break your motor. Also I would look at changing the spark plug to an NGK TR6. I would look into getting some head studs and if the car was lowered an adjustable panhard bar.

 

I'm using a stock cam. If I can pick up an LS6 cam in the meantime I'll be putting that in instead.
LS6 intake, stock '98 heads (I forget the casting number), and yellow LS6 valve springs are the plan for the top end.

Yeah I forgot I plan to put in TR6s once the turbo goes in. I have a lifetime tune from my boltons and was contemplating going with a speed density tune. My tuner is a VERY reputable LSX tuner in the area.
The car is stock height and I don't plan on straying from that with the rear mount. As for the head studs, I've heard that the ARP head bolts are very good. Any big advantage to going with them in addition to the fact that they are reusable for future head swaps? Plenty of people seem to have no issues running stock head bolts on 7-8psi and the ARP head bolts seem to be good for even more.

 

I am building a very similar setup to you using a stock 98 shortblock right now, although mine is a front mount.

One thing I have heard is that even at 6-7 PSI a single 255 might not be enough fuel, so keep that in mind once tuning begins. I'm swapping out my heads for a set of 317's and some .053 6.0L head gaskets to bring down compression to about 9.0:1, I don't know if you had considered that. They are dirt cheap and a good safety net, plus they flow a little better than stock LS1 heads.

 

You may want to check if you are able to use those head gaskets. Are they MLS or graphite? I believe most '98 blocks can only use graphite head gaskets due to the surface of the block having some tabs on it. Here's some more info...

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...tml#post888992

Post #14 in that thread has some info.

 

Scratch my last post. The notches are on the heads, not the block.
If this is the case, I guess I have no option but to upgrade heads. I don't think I want to use graphite gaskets on an FI build.

 

Yeah, graphite is a pain in a regular build, let alone an FI build. Just thought I would mention it, I got my 317's assembles for less than $150, put new springs on them and ready to rock.

 

Single 255 pump should be good for 500-550 wheel lots of guys are doing it including me. Before I spent money on a duel setup (not that its expensive) it would be worth buying a boost reference fuel pressure regulator. But I dont think you will see any problems out of a single pump at those power levels.

Don't forget the little things like a wideband.

 

Running a vented can will not evac the crankcase in any way. Look at this thread:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...n-special.html

https://ls1tech.com/forums/florida-m...n-special.html

Here is a picture of our dual checkvalve metered oil separating catch can specifically designed for turbo & front mount SC applications:



Hope this helps!

 

I would think better valve spring would be need even on a stock cam. I just installed a comp lsr remote mount turbo cam. I have no numbers yet but you might look into one. The numbers on them seem to run along the lines of secret cam grinders

 

I was debating that myself. It would seem funny to have my freshly built and forged LS1 gambling on LS6 springs. PRCs or Patriots are probably in my future.

The point isn't to evac is it? It's simply to relieve pressure caused by FI applications if I read right. Lots of guys here

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...-inside-3.html

Doing the same thing.
And where would I put the 3rd inlet to the can on a rear mount setup?

 

Straight venting it might work, but it makes an awful mess of your engine bay. I have had it set up like that before. I would much rather use a quality catch can that gets the oil out and allows the pressure to vent into the intake like the PCV system is designed to do in the first place.

 

I like this build. This is what I was originally going to build with my car. And don't get me wrong, I prob still should have gone this route, I could have my power now, for half the cost.

 

Why would it make a mess assuming you have a quality catch can that traps the majority of the oil vapors inside of it? The remainder of the vapors should get caught in the vent filter, which I'm planning on replacing once a year or so anyway. I really hate having a system that bleed oil into the intake. Never seemed like a good idea from the getgo.

 

You were talking about just venting it I assumed you meant without a catch can. Sorry. In that case it just causes the oil vapors to hang out in your engine bay and land on everything.

Make sure to post up your results, I'm pretty curious how your rear mount will be compared to my similar front mount build. Good luck man.

 

Thanks dude! Ill definitely post up results but this build is probably a year or so from completion. Still have a broken motor sitting in my garage.

The plan is to run a 3/8" hose from each valve cover to a vented catch can. Will that be enough to relieve the pressure in the crankcase?

 

I'm sure it will be fine.