Gauge

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys,

I don't have any problems with the stock tensioner on my D-1SC, but I sure do hate the blower rattle. I've thought about it long and hard, and it literally takes away from my enjoyment of the car so much that I'd be willing to spend at least $1k to get rid of it... just don't tell my wife.

My buddy has an '02 Mustang GT with a D-1SC (it's slow), and between having the angle-cut gears and a spring-tensioned belt, his blower sounds great at all RPMs. All you hear is a whistle, and it's pretty awesome.

So, that leaves me with several questions for you guys. The first is, which would make a bigger difference... getting a new D-1SC with the angle-cut gears or getting the SDCE tensioner?

Assuming the answer is the SDCE tensioner, I have some more questions about that. I've looked at it a bit, and I see that it comes with a new blower pully and some shims. Does this tensioner push the blower towards the front of the car? If so, I may have some fitment problems as I have a thicker, aftermarket radiator that gets pretty close to the blower already. Also, I'm curious if the SDCE modifications can be undone. I'm assuming the spring tensioner can be removed, but do they weld the screw tensioner in place?


Thanks in advance, guys. I sure hope to get this problem fixed as it just makes my car so much less enjoyable for me.

dschmittie1

iTrader: (64)

If you are running the 8 rib now there shouldn't be any need to shim the blower out any further.

I can't compare the SDCE to the other setup because I only had the SDCE on my car but I didn't have any blower rattle. You might also consider the Aster tensioner set up also.

Gauge

iTrader: (3)

Thanks... so, the shims are only for a 6-rib? I figured it wouldn't matter what you were running. I thought it would be shimmed out to avoid the spring tensioner getting into the power steering pump pulley.

Also, do you know the diameter of the crank pulley that comes with it and whether or not you HAVE to use it? If you have to, how is it different?

Thanks for the response. I'll look into the Aster tensioner.

dschmittie1

iTrader: (64)

I know mine was conveted from 6 rib procharger style to 8 rib sdce and had 2 shims that couldn't have been more than 1/4 in total. If it has to be shimmed at all with your 8 rib it can't be much.

Aster

iTrader: (9)

A spring tensioner system will absorb the vibrations in the belt which are the source of the rattle. This is caused by the fact that power applied from an idling engine is not smooth, but instead is generated by a series of pulses.

Also an automatic spring tensioner reduces the static load on the belt, crank, and imput shaft of the supercharger as you don't have to pre-load the belt in the effort to fight off the slipping issues inherent with a solid tensioner system.

Neither bracket option changes the location of the supercharger in relation to the engine over the oem Procharger position.

Gauge

iTrader: (3)

dschmittie1, thanks for the info.

Aster, thank you also for your input. Not that I'm disagreeing or doubt your knowledge on the subject, but just for my information, do you happen to know what all the shims are for if they don't move the blower? Or, am I wrong in thinking that the SDCE kit even includes shims?

Aster

iTrader: (9)

I have not done an install of an SDCE bracket, but the shims I believe are used to adjust the position of the bracket or balancer pulley slightly if there is an alignment issue during the install. The distance between the centerline of each rib on these pullies is just over 1/8" (.14") and generally any nudging to get everything lined up would be a fraction of that.

Gauge

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, Aster. Check your PMs.

UndrPrs

Had the same issues mate, when I was running a D1 with the 8 rib system. Then upgraded to a SDCE as well as a F1A-so much for the rattles then could not hear anything but the blower. Yes as stated the shims are needed to correct any alignment issues you may encounter.
To add the SCDCE comes with a smaller crank pulley. If I recall it was 7.5 vs the Procharger 7.625, to provide the added clearance at the water pump. I was able to keep my 7.625 with the no issues yet. The belt will contact the water pump pulley at the apex ever so slightly under a full tension condition.

I would say the ASTER set up would be your best bet, I like the idea of not having to pull the head unit to replace the belt vs the SCDEC setup. Either one is the way to go. Have over 6k on my setup with no issues, Ie belts or having to deal with checking and adjusting the belt tension.

If you do decide to change the blower do not stop at a D1 got directly to the F1A your neighbors will love you.

Gauge

iTrader: (3)

Unfortunately, with my new custom radiator setup, I think an F1 is totally out of the question. It's okay, though. My car is easily as fast as I ever wanted it to be. 636RWHP is just fine for the street. If I ever wanted to go faster, I'd have a straight race car, and it'd probably be a 3rd gen.

99bluefirebird

iTrader: (8)

I just installed the aster bracket and helical cut gear d1sc together. No rattle or any noise at all really other than the bypass valve. Asters setup is top notch. Highly recommended, I think it would do the most for your problem, and you could always send the procharger in for a rebuild later if needed. Either way you want the spring tensioned bracket

02LS1ram

iTrader: (17)

Not to hijack this thread but can some explain to me what the aster bracket is

UndrPrs

This should cover it..

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...m-bracket.html

Aster

iTrader: (9)

Some other info can also be seen here.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

I remember when you were working on this bracket, what you came up with is impressive. How much are you selling them for? Bob

Aster

iTrader: (9)

Bob,
I've sent you a PM on the subject.

02LS1ram

iTrader: (17)

Aster please
Pm
Me a
Price on the setup thank u

jhmws6

iTrader: (7)

Aster,
Please also pm me the info and price for the bracket

Thanks

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

As said, either tensioner will solve the rattling. I have the SDCE, my neighbor had the Aster. Both are great pieces, and both have things about them that aren't perfect. But hey, it's a race car part, it comes with the territory. Both will aslo solve breaking / throwing belts, breaking snouts off the crank, burning up front bearings, etc....WELL worth the little issues either has IMO.

The SDCE comes with a 7.25" crank pulley for clearing their idler. If you try to use your 7.75" ATI you will have problems. They will also provide the blower pulley & correct belt for whatever boost level you tell them you want to achieve. Adjusting the belt can be a PIA, you need 3-4 hands.

And I don't remember what the Aster comes with. But that thread is pretty complete, including the water pump pulley issue.

Either way you will end up happier than you are now. Or just go with an F1 & you will NEVER hear that rattling again!

98legendws6

iTrader: (5)

Wahusker is absolutely correct. I have the SDCE bracket on my car and of course the blower is loud, but it doesnt sound as though you dropped a few bolts inside of it. I also run the race bypass valve and when you put that thing on the car just sounds like a jet waiting to launch off a carrier. Either bracket is going to be a vast improvement over the initial design. I know some people have complained about the instructions to Wendy of SDCE, however i really didnt have any issues. Unless you depend on a mechanic to do everything to your car anyone could put it on with zero issues.