The Volvette's 1000hp build
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Harrisburg, PA
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The Volvette's 1000hp build
This is what I have(and dont have) so far... Lemme know if this is going to work for me and if I need anything else.
The Volvette Motor Build
Goal is 1000 rwhp (about 28 lbs of boost)
Block: 99' LS1 Stock Bore
Lunati Crank
Lunati I-Beam Rods
Wisco Pistons 8.5 compression
C-King Crank & Rod Bearings
Roller Master Adjustable Timing Chain
TSP LS6 Oil Pump Ported
ARP Main Bearing Bolts (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
*ANYTHING ELSE I NEED?*
Heads: LS6 cast #243
TSP Hardened Push Rods
Titanium Retainers w/ heavy duty locks
bprracing
Comp Turbo Cam .623
ARP Head Bolts
LS7 Intake Manifold
90 mm Throttle Body (DON'T HAVE, NEED?)
Valves Stock LS6 (UPGRADE?)
Roller Rockers Stock LS6 (UPGRADE?)
Retainers Stock LS6 (UPGRADE?)
Spring Seat Stock LS6 (UPGRADE?)
Lifters Stock LS6 (UPGRADE?)
Rocker Arms Stock LS6 (UPGRADE?)
*ANYTHING ELSE I NEED?*
Fueling: Ethanol
Aeromotive R.R.F.R.
Walboro 255 LPH In-Tank Fuel Pump (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
Bosch #044 300 LPH External Fuel Pump (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
110 LB Infectors (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
SS Fuel lines and Fittings (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
Misc:
Head/Engine Gasket Set (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
F&R Main Bearings (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
1000+ HP Clutch (DON'T HAVE, NEED) & WHAT KIND?
The Volvette Motor Build
Goal is 1000 rwhp (about 28 lbs of boost)
Block: 99' LS1 Stock Bore
Lunati Crank
Lunati I-Beam Rods
Wisco Pistons 8.5 compression
C-King Crank & Rod Bearings
Roller Master Adjustable Timing Chain
TSP LS6 Oil Pump Ported
ARP Main Bearing Bolts (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
*ANYTHING ELSE I NEED?*
Heads: LS6 cast #243
TSP Hardened Push Rods
Titanium Retainers w/ heavy duty locks
bprracing
Comp Turbo Cam .623
ARP Head Bolts
LS7 Intake Manifold
90 mm Throttle Body (DON'T HAVE, NEED?)
Valves Stock LS6 (UPGRADE?)
Roller Rockers Stock LS6 (UPGRADE?)
Retainers Stock LS6 (UPGRADE?)
Spring Seat Stock LS6 (UPGRADE?)
Lifters Stock LS6 (UPGRADE?)
Rocker Arms Stock LS6 (UPGRADE?)
*ANYTHING ELSE I NEED?*
Fueling: Ethanol
Aeromotive R.R.F.R.
Walboro 255 LPH In-Tank Fuel Pump (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
Bosch #044 300 LPH External Fuel Pump (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
110 LB Infectors (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
SS Fuel lines and Fittings (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
Misc:
Head/Engine Gasket Set (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
F&R Main Bearings (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
1000+ HP Clutch (DON'T HAVE, NEED) & WHAT KIND?
#3
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Harrisburg, PA
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OK critics be easy on me I'm kind of a newbie to big motor builds. My car made about 25 hp per pound of boost before(I dyno'd 550 rwhp at 10lbs of boost). So 28 PSI is about 700 additional hp on top of the stock 300 rwhp. Right???
#4
10 Second Club
iTrader: (64)
Well I made 670rwhp on 12 psi with my stock 241 heads ls6 intake and a forged 347 with my old Procharged set up.
I have a fiend that makes 770 on 13 psi on his AFR headed 383 with a D1
I think your best bet is to build a 383 with some nice heads and about 15 psi will get your your goals.
The aftermarket heads are better for higher boost as they have thicker decks and will be more resistant to lifting the heads and pushing water
I have a fiend that makes 770 on 13 psi on his AFR headed 383 with a D1
I think your best bet is to build a 383 with some nice heads and about 15 psi will get your your goals.
The aftermarket heads are better for higher boost as they have thicker decks and will be more resistant to lifting the heads and pushing water
#5
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (49)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: detroit
Posts: 1,518
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
also arp head bolts are a no go, get some arp studs, also tsp pushrods arent a restricted pushrod which isnt good at that power level. good luck with a reliable 1000hp stick car, your gonna break that left an right. you also need a rearend
#6
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: texas
Posts: 374
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This is what I have(and dont have) so far... Lemme know if this is going to work for me and if I need anything else.
The Volvette Motor Build
Goal is 1000 rwhp (about 28 lbs of boost)
Block: 99' LS1 Stock Bore
Lunati Crank
Lunati I-Beam Rods
Wisco Pistons 8.5 compression
C-King Crank & Rod Bearings
Roller Master Adjustable Timing Chain
TSP LS6 Oil Pump Ported
ARP Main Bearing Bolts (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
*ANYTHING ELSE I NEED?*
Heads: LS6 cast #243
TSP Hardened Push Rods
Titanium Retainers w/ heavy duty locks
bprracing
Comp Turbo Cam .623
ARP Head Bolts
LS7 Intake Manifold
90 mm Throttle Body (DON'T HAVE, NEED?)
Valves Stock LS6 (UPGRADE?)
Roller Rockers Stock LS6 (UPGRADE?)
Retainers Stock LS6 (UPGRADE?)
Spring Seat Stock LS6 (UPGRADE?)
Lifters Stock LS6 (UPGRADE?)
Rocker Arms Stock LS6 (UPGRADE?)
*ANYTHING ELSE I NEED?*
Fueling: Ethanol
Aeromotive R.R.F.R.
Walboro 255 LPH In-Tank Fuel Pump (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
Bosch #044 300 LPH External Fuel Pump (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
110 LB Infectors (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
SS Fuel lines and Fittings (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
Misc:
Head/Engine Gasket Set (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
F&R Main Bearings (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
1000+ HP Clutch (DON'T HAVE, NEED) & WHAT KIND?
The Volvette Motor Build
Goal is 1000 rwhp (about 28 lbs of boost)
Block: 99' LS1 Stock Bore
Lunati Crank
Lunati I-Beam Rods
Wisco Pistons 8.5 compression
C-King Crank & Rod Bearings
Roller Master Adjustable Timing Chain
TSP LS6 Oil Pump Ported
ARP Main Bearing Bolts (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
*ANYTHING ELSE I NEED?*
Heads: LS6 cast #243
TSP Hardened Push Rods
Titanium Retainers w/ heavy duty locks
bprracing
Comp Turbo Cam .623
ARP Head Bolts
LS7 Intake Manifold
90 mm Throttle Body (DON'T HAVE, NEED?)
Valves Stock LS6 (UPGRADE?)
Roller Rockers Stock LS6 (UPGRADE?)
Retainers Stock LS6 (UPGRADE?)
Spring Seat Stock LS6 (UPGRADE?)
Lifters Stock LS6 (UPGRADE?)
Rocker Arms Stock LS6 (UPGRADE?)
*ANYTHING ELSE I NEED?*
Fueling: Ethanol
Aeromotive R.R.F.R.
Walboro 255 LPH In-Tank Fuel Pump (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
Bosch #044 300 LPH External Fuel Pump (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
110 LB Infectors (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
SS Fuel lines and Fittings (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
Misc:
Head/Engine Gasket Set (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
F&R Main Bearings (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
1000+ HP Clutch (DON'T HAVE, NEED) & WHAT KIND?
1. the stock ls1 block will take the power but it wont like it very much and might struggle with distortion
2. If your going to use the ls1 block as a platform then your gonna need to help it along all you can, so lets see what you need
3. ARP main stud kit is very nice and you will need it but at that power goal I would personally pin the mains also. This block will want to walk the mains under that power level
4. 28lbs is going to be alot! You will be fighting issues on lifting the heads under that boost level because of cylinder pressure. I believe you will hit your power goal with less if you "help" it which brings us to the heads
5. I would def invest in better heads then what you have planned. Try looking into something like a TrickFlow 225 or comparable. These will also help you because of the thicker deck surface(nominal, but every bit helps) for the head lifting issue. be cautious when buying, if you go too big you will have valve shrouding
6. Forget the ls7 intake. square(rectangle) ports compared to cathedral.
Go with something of a ls6 or better, I.E. victor, wilson etc...
7. Lets step back...again, if using this block you will not have the option of using 6bolt pattern heads so invest in o-ringing or pyrimid ringing the block
I guess the most important things to know for this power goal is to have a well put together bottom end that is "perfect", good fuel at all times, great tune(will go a long way!) and invest in proper and proven products to help reach your goals with less "stress" to your motor. Basically make that engine breathe so you dont have to boost it to the moon to get that power. Good luck with your build...its gonna take awhile and you will need to do as much reading and learning as you possibly can.
Joshua
#7
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Harrisburg, PA
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Is that all?
Also the 1000hp is just a dyno number. I will drive it with about 600hp. Also, I have a rear-end.
Trending Topics
#8
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Harrisburg, PA
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok man...he is right but short and sweet with it. Here is my opinion.
1. The stock ls1 block will take the power but it wont like it very much and might struggle with distortion
2. If your going to use the ls1 block as a platform then your gonna need to help it along all you can, so lets see what you need
3. Arp main stud kit is very nice and you will need it but at that power goal i would personally pin the mains also. This block will want to walk the mains under that power level
4. 28lbs is going to be alot! You will be fighting issues on lifting the heads under that boost level because of cylinder pressure. I believe you will hit your power goal with less if you "help" it which brings us to the heads
5. I would def invest in better heads then what you have planned. Try looking into something like a trickflow 225 or comparable. These will also help you because of the thicker deck surface(nominal, but every bit helps) for the head lifting issue. Be cautious when buying, if you go too big you will have valve shrouding
6. Forget the ls7 intake. Square(rectangle) ports compared to cathedral.
Go with something of a ls6 or better, i.e. Victor, wilson etc...
7. Lets step back...again, if using this block you will not have the option of using 6bolt pattern heads so invest in o-ringing or pyrimid ringing the block
i guess the most important things to know for this power goal is to have a well put together bottom end that is "perfect", good fuel at all times, great tune(will go a long way!) and invest in proper and proven products to help reach your goals with less "stress" to your motor. Basically make that engine breathe so you dont have to boost it to the moon to get that power. Good luck with your build...its gonna take awhile and you will need to do as much reading and learning as you possibly can.
Joshua
1. The stock ls1 block will take the power but it wont like it very much and might struggle with distortion
2. If your going to use the ls1 block as a platform then your gonna need to help it along all you can, so lets see what you need
3. Arp main stud kit is very nice and you will need it but at that power goal i would personally pin the mains also. This block will want to walk the mains under that power level
4. 28lbs is going to be alot! You will be fighting issues on lifting the heads under that boost level because of cylinder pressure. I believe you will hit your power goal with less if you "help" it which brings us to the heads
5. I would def invest in better heads then what you have planned. Try looking into something like a trickflow 225 or comparable. These will also help you because of the thicker deck surface(nominal, but every bit helps) for the head lifting issue. Be cautious when buying, if you go too big you will have valve shrouding
6. Forget the ls7 intake. Square(rectangle) ports compared to cathedral.
Go with something of a ls6 or better, i.e. Victor, wilson etc...
7. Lets step back...again, if using this block you will not have the option of using 6bolt pattern heads so invest in o-ringing or pyrimid ringing the block
i guess the most important things to know for this power goal is to have a well put together bottom end that is "perfect", good fuel at all times, great tune(will go a long way!) and invest in proper and proven products to help reach your goals with less "stress" to your motor. Basically make that engine breathe so you dont have to boost it to the moon to get that power. Good luck with your build...its gonna take awhile and you will need to do as much reading and learning as you possibly can.
Joshua
#9
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: texas
Posts: 374
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok i read some more...
nice prepped block, wiesco pistons, hellfire or C&R rings, at least scat h-beam rods with arp 2000's, savemoney on the crank and use a micropolished stock nodular iron crank(they are proven to hold a ton), ARP STUDS everywhere!(mains and heads),high flow induction and gm mls gaskets.
This bottom end should be sufficient.
I dont think you will need and cam with that much lift(.623)
Also, what is that question about "roller rocker stock ls6 stock" and "rocker arms ls6 stock"??? The stock rockers will work just fine,no need for roller rockers in my opinion
After you get all of the motor figures you can move to fueling it and putting that power down withoutbreakage, which will be very hard in a stick car as mentioned above. oh and my opnion is its going to be very close to 20lbs to see that kind of power on a 347/8
nice prepped block, wiesco pistons, hellfire or C&R rings, at least scat h-beam rods with arp 2000's, savemoney on the crank and use a micropolished stock nodular iron crank(they are proven to hold a ton), ARP STUDS everywhere!(mains and heads),high flow induction and gm mls gaskets.
This bottom end should be sufficient.
I dont think you will need and cam with that much lift(.623)
Also, what is that question about "roller rocker stock ls6 stock" and "rocker arms ls6 stock"??? The stock rockers will work just fine,no need for roller rockers in my opinion
After you get all of the motor figures you can move to fueling it and putting that power down withoutbreakage, which will be very hard in a stick car as mentioned above. oh and my opnion is its going to be very close to 20lbs to see that kind of power on a 347/8
#10
11 Second Club
iTrader: (5)
I would deff pin/dowl the mains. I would also look at getting billet main caps. 1000rwhp for the dyno should be around 20ish psi or so. You will need a better set of heads as mentioned. That will be a lot of cylinder pressure for a stock deck head. You should look into a set of AFR's, TFS, or other aftermarket head that will provide more clamping force. For pushrods, comp cromeolly's should be fine. What cam specs are you looking at? What turbos are they? Theres more to that number then what has been stated so far lol. For a clutch you'll need something like a RPS carbon twin disc. Thats just for starters. I have a fair ammount of turbo knowledge but hopefully someone better will chime in. Good start!...that thing will be killer!
#12
my advise, do as much research before you start the project as you can. Speak to some of the vendors on here. they will probably be able to advise what thye would do for you. Alot do this withiout exspecting you to buy. also speak to guys running a similr setup to what you would like. there will be plenty on here. Its probably better to copy someone elses very successful setup than try to build your own.
Aslo if you are getting you engine machined/built by someone then speak to them and ask for their advise.
Aslo if you are getting you engine machined/built by someone then speak to them and ask for their advise.
#13
12 Second Club
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Fannett, Tx
Posts: 1,316
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
my advise, do as much research before you start the project as you can. Speak to some of the vendors on here. they will probably be able to advise what thye would do for you. Alot do this withiout exspecting you to buy. also speak to guys running a similr setup to what you would like. there will be plenty on here. Its probably better to copy someone elses very successful setup than try to build your own.
Aslo if you are getting you engine machined/built by someone then speak to them and ask for their advise.
Aslo if you are getting you engine machined/built by someone then speak to them and ask for their advise.
#14
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (17)
LOL, noticed that too, i find it very hilarious to go back and read my posts "the day after" and see how rediculous ive looked, lol.
To the OP, If your ethanol, do you really need to be 8.5:1?? Also, i agree with the head choice highly, do not use stock casting if you can help it.
And def pin the mains. ummmmm. carry on
To the OP, If your ethanol, do you really need to be 8.5:1?? Also, i agree with the head choice highly, do not use stock casting if you can help it.
And def pin the mains. ummmmm. carry on
#15
#16
If you are going to run 28# on a stock casting head i would say you need to O-ring heads and block for sure.
Looks like you need to do some research, serious research. Also if your engine is not already built i would recommend starting with a more solid foundation.
Looks like you need to do some research, serious research. Also if your engine is not already built i would recommend starting with a more solid foundation.
#17
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: texas
Posts: 374
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
LOL, noticed that too, i find it very hilarious to go back and read my posts "the day after" and see how rediculous ive looked, lol.
To the OP, If your ethanol, do you really need to be 8.5:1?? Also, i agree with the head choice highly, do not use stock casting if you can help it.
And def pin the mains. ummmmm. carry on
To the OP, If your ethanol, do you really need to be 8.5:1?? Also, i agree with the head choice highly, do not use stock casting if you can help it.
And def pin the mains. ummmmm. carry on
If you are going to run 28# on a stock casting head i would say you need to O-ring heads and block for sure.
Looks like you need to do some research, serious research. Also if your engine is not already built i would recommend starting with a more solid foundation.
Looks like you need to do some research, serious research. Also if your engine is not already built i would recommend starting with a more solid foundation.
#19
Horsepower is more closely related to mass airflow than boost pressure. If you open the motor up and flow more air mass with the same boost, you will make more power.
Better heads, bigger cams, more displacement, more open exhaust and intake, etc will all flow more air and require less boost for the same horsepower.
Therefore, if you open your engine up and let it breathe more air mass per pound of boost, then every pound of boost you add is simply compressing the air denser, increasing the air mass.