Piston Oil Squirters
The oil galley on the RHS block is only on one side as it has priority main type plumbing. If you tried putting the four oilers on the other side, you would need to try and intersect the lifter galley. It does not look like this would work out.......
The Comp solution looks very good.
Kurt
The Comp solution looks very good.
Kurt
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Norn Iron
For my 421/YSi SBC project , I used the Bo Laws Performance kit to modify my block for piston oil squirters.
It comes with 2 fixtures, one for cyl. 1-7 and one for cyl. 8. Here I'm doing cylinder 3. I have already drilled the hole then stuck the bit through to show the angle:
Jim
It comes with 2 fixtures, one for cyl. 1-7 and one for cyl. 8. Here I'm doing cylinder 3. I have already drilled the hole then stuck the bit through to show the angle:
Jim
The only issues I saw with that style, was on the narrow skirted pistons LS uses, it would be spraying oil at the pin boss a lot of the time, and not the underside of the piston.
Last edited by stevieturbo; Dec 11, 2011 at 10:44 AM.
Stevie, I'm not sure if they have anything for the LS. Get their contact info at blp.com and shoot them a note.
I will post up a thread about my new build now that I have enough to make it worth reading.
Jim
I will post up a thread about my new build now that I have enough to make it worth reading.
Jim
Teching In
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The oil galley on the RHS block is only on one side as it has priority main type plumbing. If you tried putting the four oilers on the other side, you would need to try and intersect the lifter galley. It does not look like this would work out.......
The Comp solution looks very good.
Kurt
The Comp solution looks very good.
Kurt
Resurrecting thread. Is it possible to drill/tap an LS6 block to use the LS9 oil squirters?
If the galley based squirters are not an option in the LS6 block, what about drilling the mains and doing a setup similar to DeltaT's 421 block?
If the galley based squirters are not an option in the LS6 block, what about drilling the mains and doing a setup similar to DeltaT's 421 block?
Chris
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The factory oilers have a spring loaded valve that cuts off below 25psi, that keeps the pressure from getting very low at the bearing. The bulkhead style is always spraying even if the pressure is low, so you need enough pump to keep oil pressure steady with 8 controlled leaks. I have used them often in race engines, but not much in street stuff. The GM style is way better if you can use them, and the RHS one is the same style.
Kurt
Kurt
Are there any bulkhead style oilers that have the valve in them? I have read about some foreign (Asian) motors that have bulkhead style oilers with check ***** in them.
If I ran the LS9 oil pump, would I have enough flow capacity to support the open bulkhead style oilers?
Chris
edit: I found these. http://www.e30m3project.com/e30m3per...rs/squirt2.htm Turns out the older BMW engines had bulkhead style oilers which have a check ball in them to close off at low pressure (idle). They are about $30 a piece, but I would think they would provide some added insurance without hurting bearings.
Last edited by 2001CamaroGuy; Apr 9, 2013 at 03:09 PM.
Update: I called BLP Racing (makes the blocks DeltaT used) and they make a kit for the LS1.
Part# 400-050.
It's $393 and comes with the fixture blocks, the port drill bit, a tap drill bit, a tap, and 8 orifices. Just for comparison, the Kateck squiters are basically $400 (for the squirters) and I think they want $300 to install them.
I'm thinking the BLP kit would work fine for me if I run the higher volume LS9 pump (the guy at BLP pointed out that at low RPM it won't be squirting much oil....perhaps the orifice is really small?).
If not, I guess I could take the BLP kit, drill the bulkheads, then flip the block and install the BMW spring loaded orifices. Agree/dissagree?
Chris
Part# 400-050.
It's $393 and comes with the fixture blocks, the port drill bit, a tap drill bit, a tap, and 8 orifices. Just for comparison, the Kateck squiters are basically $400 (for the squirters) and I think they want $300 to install them.
I'm thinking the BLP kit would work fine for me if I run the higher volume LS9 pump (the guy at BLP pointed out that at low RPM it won't be squirting much oil....perhaps the orifice is really small?).
If not, I guess I could take the BLP kit, drill the bulkheads, then flip the block and install the BMW spring loaded orifices. Agree/dissagree?
Chris
The LS9 pump is a high volume pressure section with the standard LS7 scavenge section, it should keep up with everything. The BMW one is check valve style inline? I would like to check that out!
Kurt
Kurt
Inevitably I have to ask, "what is the real advantages of doing all of this?" While I certainly see a benefit of having cooler pistons and increased pin oiling, at what point does it really show a benefit? Is it something that a "hot street engine" would warrant or is this something reserved for high RPM/high boost/high HP? I can't see BMW, Volvo, etc. putting these things on their N/A engines (which they do) if they didn't make a major improvement in life expectancy of the engine. So, when is it really worth the cost/trouble/etc?
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
Older Subaru blocks used a small jet, M6x1.0mm thread, screws into the block and has a check valve in it
http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/part...chKey=squirter
Ive seen videos and pictures online, where people modify the conrod to allow more oil to end up on the underside of the piston. Not as functional as a jet, but certainly easier to achieve ?
ie, like this
or another variation
http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/part...chKey=squirter
Ive seen videos and pictures online, where people modify the conrod to allow more oil to end up on the underside of the piston. Not as functional as a jet, but certainly easier to achieve ?
ie, like this
or another variation
Older Subaru blocks used a small jet, M6x1.0mm thread, screws into the block and has a check valve in it
http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/part...chKey=squirter
Ive seen videos and pictures online, where people modify the conrod to allow more oil to end up on the underside of the piston. Not as functional as a jet, but certainly easier to achieve ?
ie, like this
or another variation
http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/part...chKey=squirter
Ive seen videos and pictures online, where people modify the conrod to allow more oil to end up on the underside of the piston. Not as functional as a jet, but certainly easier to achieve ?
ie, like this
or another variation
I'm "tempted" to find a cracked LS1 block so I could drill the main oil galley to prove whether or not if there is any way to make the "fancy" squirters work.
I use the rod "leak" on my NA crate engine and my lowest power boosted engine. Mine is kind of a cross between the two pictures for location. The need for it is something you need to decide for yourself. if you are doing track days with long straightaways or long sessions it will help with longevity.
Kurt
Kurt
The rod oilers require a oil ring that has more tension because the oil is not targeted at the back of the crown like the permanent mount factory stuff, it sprays out 360 degrees. I use 12-13# oil rings instead of 8#, that probably costs me 5hp, but I like the additional cooling. Car company would not take a 5hp loss in a 500hp or less engine, especially a direct friction loss.
Kurt
Kurt
The rod oilers require a oil ring that has more tension because the oil is not targeted at the back of the crown like the permanent mount factory stuff, it sprays out 360 degrees. I use 12-13# oil rings instead of 8#, that probably costs me 5hp, but I like the additional cooling. Car company would not take a 5hp loss in a 500hp or less engine, especially a direct friction loss.
Kurt
Kurt
