427

iTrader: (3)

The oil galley on the RHS block is only on one side as it has priority main type plumbing. If you tried putting the four oilers on the other side, you would need to try and intersect the lifter galley. It does not look like this would work out.......
The Comp solution looks very good.

Kurt

stevieturbo

How much is the kit ? and do they offer it for an LS ?

The only issues I saw with that style, was on the narrow skirted pistons LS uses, it would be spraying oil at the pin boss a lot of the time, and not the underside of the piston.

DeltaT

iTrader: (5)

Stevie, I'm not sure if they have anything for the LS. Get their contact info at blp.com and shoot them a note.

I will post up a thread about my new build now that I have enough to make it worth reading.

Jim

stevieturbo

I looked on their website. They dont seem to have any info there at all. It's mostly just carbs

Dark Regent

Gotcha. That's what I needed to know, thanks. Just too bad their option is so expensive. I still like the block.

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

Resurrecting thread. Is it possible to drill/tap an LS6 block to use the LS9 oil squirters?

If the galley based squirters are not an option in the LS6 block, what about drilling the mains and doing a setup similar to DeltaT's 421 block?

427

iTrader: (3)

The LS6 block does not have the material/pads in the casting, you will need to go with the bulkhead method.

Kurt

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

With the bulkhead method, are there any drawbacks? I have read that some people (with other engines...not LS based) have seen increased bearing wear due to reduced oiling (the bulkhead squirters bleed off oil to the mains).

Chris

427

iTrader: (3)

The factory oilers have a spring loaded valve that cuts off below 25psi, that keeps the pressure from getting very low at the bearing. The bulkhead style is always spraying even if the pressure is low, so you need enough pump to keep oil pressure steady with 8 controlled leaks. I have used them often in race engines, but not much in street stuff. The GM style is way better if you can use them, and the RHS one is the same style.

Kurt

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

Everyone keeps saying the bulkhead style is the only option with the LS1/LS6 block (what I'm using).

Are there any bulkhead style oilers that have the valve in them? I have read about some foreign (Asian) motors that have bulkhead style oilers with check ***** in them.

If I ran the LS9 oil pump, would I have enough flow capacity to support the open bulkhead style oilers?

Chris


edit: I found these. http://www.e30m3project.com/e30m3per...rs/squirt2.htm Turns out the older BMW engines had bulkhead style oilers which have a check ball in them to close off at low pressure (idle). They are about $30 a piece, but I would think they would provide some added insurance without hurting bearings.

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

Update: I called BLP Racing (makes the blocks DeltaT used) and they make a kit for the LS1.

Part# 400-050.

It's $393 and comes with the fixture blocks, the port drill bit, a tap drill bit, a tap, and 8 orifices. Just for comparison, the Kateck squiters are basically $400 (for the squirters) and I think they want $300 to install them.

I'm thinking the BLP kit would work fine for me if I run the higher volume LS9 pump (the guy at BLP pointed out that at low RPM it won't be squirting much oil....perhaps the orifice is really small?).

If not, I guess I could take the BLP kit, drill the bulkheads, then flip the block and install the BMW spring loaded orifices. Agree/dissagree?

Chris

427

iTrader: (3)

The LS9 pump is a high volume pressure section with the standard LS7 scavenge section, it should keep up with everything. The BMW one is check valve style inline? I would like to check that out!

Kurt

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, the BMW orifice has a check valve in it that is supposed to lock off below some psi (20psi probably). They are a bit expensive (about $25 each....), but would certainly prevent low mains pressure at idle.


Inevitably I have to ask, "what is the real advantages of doing all of this?" While I certainly see a benefit of having cooler pistons and increased pin oiling, at what point does it really show a benefit? Is it something that a "hot street engine" would warrant or is this something reserved for high RPM/high boost/high HP? I can't see BMW, Volvo, etc. putting these things on their N/A engines (which they do) if they didn't make a major improvement in life expectancy of the engine. So, when is it really worth the cost/trouble/etc?

stevieturbo

Older Subaru blocks used a small jet, M6x1.0mm thread, screws into the block and has a check valve in it

http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/part...chKey=squirter



Ive seen videos and pictures online, where people modify the conrod to allow more oil to end up on the underside of the piston. Not as functional as a jet, but certainly easier to achieve ?

ie, like this



or another variation

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

I've seen the connecting rod mod as well. It seems to be very common on older Porsches from the factory.

I'm "tempted" to find a cracked LS1 block so I could drill the main oil galley to prove whether or not if there is any way to make the "fancy" squirters work.

427

iTrader: (3)

I use the rod "leak" on my NA crate engine and my lowest power boosted engine. Mine is kind of a cross between the two pictures for location. The need for it is something you need to decide for yourself. if you are doing track days with long straightaways or long sessions it will help with longevity.

Kurt

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

Other than cost, I can't find a reason to not do it.

stevieturbo

Of course...it begs the question. That if the rod solution is a good one, it's easy, it doesnt cost much.....why arent all rods made like that ?

427

iTrader: (3)

The rod oilers require a oil ring that has more tension because the oil is not targeted at the back of the crown like the permanent mount factory stuff, it sprays out 360 degrees. I use 12-13# oil rings instead of 8#, that probably costs me 5hp, but I like the additional cooling. Car company would not take a 5hp loss in a 500hp or less engine, especially a direct friction loss.

Kurt

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

How do you "pick" the oil ring tension? How do you know to use 12-13# rings instead of 8#?