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looking to learn from your experience d1sc install

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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 01:31 PM
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Default looking to learn from your experience d1sc install

let me start by saying im brand new to fi and have never done a procharger install in my life or even been in a fi car. ive been reading alot over the last few months trying to take in everything i can from this forum but still think i could use some help. i will hopefully be refrencing this thread a bit over the install. so please post up any suggestions or experiences you might want to share.

power goals would be in the 500 to 550 range(know id be in the lower area of that but one can hope) and this is just a fun street car nothing more really.
i will be installing a d1sc kit this winter and wondering what i should look out for. so far i have

procharger d1sc kit with 8 rib and twin 4.5 intercoolers exactley the way pro charger sells it.
siemens 60# flowmatched injectors with racetronix pump.
ati balancer
arh 1 7/8 headers.

i know about rear end and clutch issues thos are getting worked on this winter to but this is more on the motor side of things.

other plans im considering this winter are brute speed cam and 317 heads depending on financines which arent looking good right now due to seasonal job.

this is going on a bone stock 02 t/a with 40,000 miles and im planning on keeping my air pump and cruise control.(basically i want to be able to put this back to stock easily if i need to.)

i know to add a second fan and use a bigger air filter.(how big can i go keeping the air pump?.) i was also looking into a alkycontrol kit to help keep iats down but not sure where to install it on the twin intercoolers. also i would want the nozzle before the iat sensor but am told it needs to be after the maf not easily achievable on the twins. should i go sd right of the bat?(dosent really seem worth it for my low power goals)

anything you wish you knew when you first started getting into your install?. or something you think should be mandatory when adding a procharger(besides forged internals i know the risk and am expecting it not to last)

what pully should i be running for 8# and what pully for 10#?.

i appreciate any help and i will probally have a bunch more question as i do the install.
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 01:57 PM
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For a stock camshaft you're going to be in the 4.38 to 4.50 pulley range, depending on elevation, etc for 8 psi of boost. A 4.12 to 4.25 pulley would probably get you into the 10 psi range. 8 psi is what I recommend shooting for, and with your '02 having the better LS6 intake manifold, you'll be at or over 500 rwhp without any problems.

http://shop.brutespeed.com/KN-RE-092...KN-RE-0920.htm
This is the air filter I recommend using. Bob
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 08:05 PM
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I am slowly installing this same setup right now on a 01' ws6. Ditch the AIR it will not fit in a T/A. I spent a whole day trying every way to get it to fit. Save yourself a bunch of time and ditch it. Buy the crank pinning kit it makes it a breeze.
I just relocated the horn today and test fit the pass side intercooler, not sure if its gonna fit either??? Anyone wanna chime in on a trick for it?
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 05:11 AM
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Originally Posted by BLAKE 01 WS6
I am slowly installing this same setup right now on a 01' ws6. Ditch the AIR it will not fit in a T/A. I spent a whole day trying every way to get it to fit. Save yourself a bunch of time and ditch it. Buy the crank pinning kit it makes it a breeze.
I just relocated the horn today and test fit the pass side intercooler, not sure if its gonna fit either??? Anyone wanna chime in on a trick for it?
Don't tighten any clamps until you get all the plumbing in place. Sometimes you may need to trim an intercooler hose here or there but it will all fit up there. Bob
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 11:38 AM
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maybe the pass side will just have to be in there a little crooked, whats that big round can looking thing in front of the pass tire? thats what it is hitting.
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 12:04 PM
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A lot depends on where you drilled your holes, but I had to put a couple washers to lower the passanger side intercooler a small amount because of the vacuum canister over there. For the fan you can just ditch the Procharger 16" fan and get a spal paddle fan, part # 30102082, it is almost 2500 cfm and more that able to keep the system cool without having to get fancy with extra fans. Mine has been happy through the Texas heat and my car never gets above 200, usually sits happy at around 190 where the thermostat is.

Like Bob said somewhere around a 4.5" HU should get you close to 8 psi give or take depending on altitude. You should have no problems getting your stated goals.

I'd suggest also skipping the worm gear clamps and ordering up some T-bolt clamps, they look nicer, and hold so much better.
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 12:04 PM
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500 + is easily achievable without the use of a cam or heads. I’m at 523rwhp with stock heads cam and block on 9lb and no meth
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Aster
A lot depends on where you drilled your holes, but I had to put a couple washers to lower the passanger side intercooler a small amount because of the vacuum canister over there. For the fan you can just ditch the Procharger 16" fan and get a spal paddle fan, part # 30102082, it is almost 2500 cfm and more that able to keep the system cool without having to get fancy with extra fans. Mine has been happy through the Texas heat and my car never gets above 200, usually sits happy at around 190 where the thermostat is.

Like Bob said somewhere around a 4.5" HU should get you close to 8 psi give or take depending on altitude. You should have no problems getting your stated goals.
What he said about the fans! Im running the Spal fan and no problems in the 100 + weather
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 12:31 PM
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I had to raise the battery tray/coolant overflow tank for the passenger side intercooler plumbing to fit properly. I also relocated the vacuum canister
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 01:12 PM
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Man I wish i'd have known about that other spal sooner I have already bought the little 9" to go with it.
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Aster
A lot depends on where you drilled your holes, but I had to put a couple washers to lower the passanger side intercooler a small amount because of the vacuum canister over there. For the fan you can just ditch the Procharger 16" fan and get a spal paddle fan, part # 30102082, it is almost 2500 cfm and more that able to keep the system cool without having to get fancy with extra fans. Mine has been happy through the Texas heat and my car never gets above 200, usually sits happy at around 190 where the thermostat is.

Like Bob said somewhere around a 4.5" HU should get you close to 8 psi give or take depending on altitude. You should have no problems getting your stated goals.

I'd suggest also skipping the worm gear clamps and ordering up some T-bolt clamps, they look nicer, and hold so much better.


Thanks for the tip, I guess I was just expecting it to be squared with the radiator support, figured I would just have to improvise and use some type of washer or spacer. It fit in there it just wouldnt square up the way I liked.


Now I'm wondering if I should just order that 16" and ditch that 9" so I dont have to cut the shroud. Or maybe later on down the road just upgrade that 16" to the higher flowing one????
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 01:18 PM
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Thanks a bunch guy's this is really helping out the procharger newbies!
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 01:23 PM
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Yeah, my twins never really squared up just right to me either. Part of the desire to build my own FMIC.

As for the fan, it is up to you. I pieced my whole kit together so I wasn't buying extra fans at the time, but it was nice to not have to cut the shroud.
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Old Dec 2, 2010 | 09:16 PM
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I hate procharger, just pay somebody else to put it on its a PITA!!
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Old Dec 2, 2010 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by BLAKE 01 WS6
I hate procharger, just pay somebody else to put it on its a PITA!!
My kit bolted right up. Took a hour and a half.
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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Ericmck2000
My kit bolted right up. Took a hour and a half.


Please read this thread, it's about an F-BODY PROCHARGER kit. You wouldnt even get all the parts out of the box, unwrapped, and sorted out in an hour and a half. I was just venting off a little frustration with the lack of room to work on these cars not really the procharger kit itself, although the instructions I feel could be a lot better than they are. Nothing just slides right in with this thing.
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Old Dec 16, 2010 | 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by BLAKE 01 WS6
Please read this thread, it's about an F-BODY PROCHARGER kit. You wouldnt even get all the parts out of the box, unwrapped, and sorted out in an hour and a half. I was just venting off a little frustration with the lack of room to work on these cars not really the procharger kit itself, although the instructions I feel could be a lot better than they are. Nothing just slides right in with this thing.
Blake, how is your install going? Bob
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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 07:49 PM
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Thanks for all the help, tips, and great deal on the kit Bob. Finally wrapped it up last thursday, and man was it soooo sweet to hear that whistle... Just have to get the gauges, fuel system done, and have it tuned. Do you think I will be fine with one racetronix kit that I already had on the car or should I go ahead and install the secound one that was included in your kit just to be safe?
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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 07:50 PM
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I should prolly go ahead and take off the TNT F-1 kit too before something crazy happens, but for some reason I just can't do it......
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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 08:58 PM
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Just started my install the other day any other tips I could use. I already did the headers and fuel system. And your right the air pump was a bitch but I got it to fit with the parking light. Got the horns relocated and the fan shroud in today. Unfortunately I bought the balancer that the procharger manual recommend and turns out to be the wrong one.
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