I finally got my car on the dyno today. Please take a look.
#41
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The extended studs from Moser are no where near as strong as ARPs. Found that out after I had one completely disappear never
to be seen again. Replaced them with ARPs.
PS. you'll be drinking milk + whiskey off the floor, that's just sad and a horrible tasting combo... you must really be depressed.
to be seen again. Replaced them with ARPs.
PS. you'll be drinking milk + whiskey off the floor, that's just sad and a horrible tasting combo... you must really be depressed.
#43
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Yes, the intercooler, the radiator, the hood, the front bumpber, and headlights are all up for sale. Cheep too. ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
I would think 5/8" would require some special wheels, but thats what it will have next time out.
And I think the depresion is starting to hit me a little. Fighting it off with Jake and Coke now. I keep telling myelf I should be glad no one got hurt. That helps some.
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I would think 5/8" would require some special wheels, but thats what it will have next time out.
And I think the depresion is starting to hit me a little. Fighting it off with Jake and Coke now. I keep telling myelf I should be glad no one got hurt. That helps some.
#44
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ugh, Im sorry to hear that bro, but........Upgrade!! you were about to take it all apart anyway. what about front half'ing the car? if you find another TA wrecked in the rear, splice one back together THE RIGHT WAY, then 10pt cage it, you wont ever know the difference.
It sounds ghetto but body shops actually do it more often than you think, then with you adding in a bunch of safety and chassis rigidity and upgrades. all you really need are hood, fender, bumper etc. and those can be had super cheap. last time i priced a brand new fender it was like 35 bucks and in stock unpainted.
frontmount the turbo while your at it, shave some weight, so on and so forth
It sounds ghetto but body shops actually do it more often than you think, then with you adding in a bunch of safety and chassis rigidity and upgrades. all you really need are hood, fender, bumper etc. and those can be had super cheap. last time i priced a brand new fender it was like 35 bucks and in stock unpainted.
frontmount the turbo while your at it, shave some weight, so on and so forth
#45
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Yeh, I am up and about this morning. I am going to get her off my trailer and onto my car lift. I will get the engine and trans dropped out of it today and clear off the BS on the front. I will know tonight just how bad the firewall and frame rails are.
I keep thinking this might be the right time to just chassy the front have, tight it into the subframe conectors, install a nice 10 point cage and tie it into the front. That would open up a ton of room up front.
We will see once I get it apart.
Thanks for the moral support guys. I needed it.
I keep thinking this might be the right time to just chassy the front have, tight it into the subframe conectors, install a nice 10 point cage and tie it into the front. That would open up a ton of room up front.
We will see once I get it apart.
Thanks for the moral support guys. I needed it.
#48
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That sucks but you didn't over power those 12mm studs. I have like 200 bottom 1.3 60's at 3800 lbs with the front wheels in the air and the only way I've ever broken one was trying to take off a lug that a tire changer cross threaded with an impact gun. If you got Welds and you didn't re-tighten them after you put them on for the first time, that's what happened.
#49
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No welds, stock wheels. There is no telling, they might have been over torqued a time or two. I got the rear end second hand.
Here is the update.I have the car in my lift. The rear end looks untouched. The trans is untouched, the drive shaft is untouched, and so far the engine tooks untouched. I have it about 50% of the way out right now. Going to finish pulling it out after we eat lunch.
Looks like just need a new car to put all my stuff in.
Here is the update.I have the car in my lift. The rear end looks untouched. The trans is untouched, the drive shaft is untouched, and so far the engine tooks untouched. I have it about 50% of the way out right now. Going to finish pulling it out after we eat lunch.
Looks like just need a new car to put all my stuff in.
#51
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I have it all apart now and the body is loaded back on my trailer. I will carry it to Odessa were I am moving to. It looks like everything is in great shape, except the front of the car. The front frame rails and fender/strut rails are bent to ****.
9 hours total to unload the car off the trailer, get it on the lift, remove turbo, lines, trans, engine, cradle, drive shaft, load it back on the trailer, split trans and engine, and now have the engine on the stand ready for inspection tomorrow. Not bad for a fat 40 year old.![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
I think I am going to do this in two parts, I will find another car to put my stuff in for the time being, and once it is on the road again I will start building a chassy for this one and make it a track only car. Build a big boost 440 LSX with a powerglide.
9 hours total to unload the car off the trailer, get it on the lift, remove turbo, lines, trans, engine, cradle, drive shaft, load it back on the trailer, split trans and engine, and now have the engine on the stand ready for inspection tomorrow. Not bad for a fat 40 year old.
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
I think I am going to do this in two parts, I will find another car to put my stuff in for the time being, and once it is on the road again I will start building a chassy for this one and make it a track only car. Build a big boost 440 LSX with a powerglide.
#54
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Not a bad idea. I was thinking of maybe getting a Vette to drop my stuff in. It would have to be a 90's model I guess do to the transmition location.
I am sure I will pick up another bird some were soon. As for the tow truck, the warenty is almost out on my Tundra. I want to install the supercharger kit Toyota sells for it. I think they claim 500hp and 550 tq or maybe it was the other way around. Perfect Tow yota. Maybe I can find a Supra to put my stuff in. Hummmm
I am sure I will pick up another bird some were soon. As for the tow truck, the warenty is almost out on my Tundra. I want to install the supercharger kit Toyota sells for it. I think they claim 500hp and 550 tq or maybe it was the other way around. Perfect Tow yota. Maybe I can find a Supra to put my stuff in. Hummmm
#56
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I thought the C6 had the rear transaxle. What years are the C6's? I would love to get my hands on a Vette. Do they make rear axle peices strong enough for 1000rwhp or do you have to put a solid axle in it at that point?
I am going to start building the front mount exhaust peices this week. I have everything here to do it (except a car but I do have the engine cradle). I will work on the cold side after I get another car. I am thinking of using an air to water intercooler this time. I am thinking it will take up less space and I will not have to cut the front bumper cover like I did before. Run the radiator for it were the condenser was. next car i will do without AC, ABS, Cruise Control, and maight even run no power steering. Removing these things should really open up the engine bay.
I am debating on which intake to run. I am picking up a nice Tig, and I was going to build a Sheetmetal intake, but looking at the new Holley intake, I am wondering if I can build a different top for it and fit it under the windshield. I also have the single plane carb style intake I could run with either a 90 on top or a 4 barrel TB, and I still have this LS3 intake on it.
I am thinking with an intake improvement, advancing the cam to were Virginia Speed wanted it in the first place, and moving the turbo up front, I might make it to my new goal of 1000rwhp, and fast spool time.
I wonder if I should run the PT .96AR turbine housing or the original 1.08AR turbine housing on this GT-88 when I move it up front. The .96 is on a T-4 flange and the 1.08 is on a T-6 flange.
I am going to start building the front mount exhaust peices this week. I have everything here to do it (except a car but I do have the engine cradle). I will work on the cold side after I get another car. I am thinking of using an air to water intercooler this time. I am thinking it will take up less space and I will not have to cut the front bumper cover like I did before. Run the radiator for it were the condenser was. next car i will do without AC, ABS, Cruise Control, and maight even run no power steering. Removing these things should really open up the engine bay.
I am debating on which intake to run. I am picking up a nice Tig, and I was going to build a Sheetmetal intake, but looking at the new Holley intake, I am wondering if I can build a different top for it and fit it under the windshield. I also have the single plane carb style intake I could run with either a 90 on top or a 4 barrel TB, and I still have this LS3 intake on it.
I am thinking with an intake improvement, advancing the cam to were Virginia Speed wanted it in the first place, and moving the turbo up front, I might make it to my new goal of 1000rwhp, and fast spool time.
I wonder if I should run the PT .96AR turbine housing or the original 1.08AR turbine housing on this GT-88 when I move it up front. The .96 is on a T-4 flange and the 1.08 is on a T-6 flange.
#57
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C6 started in late 2000's i forget what year. its transaxle, do not need a solid rear, the (I think, from what ive researched) stock rear diff will hold it with some exterior braces to the diff case. the 4l80e gets a modified output shaft and tail housing to bolt to the rear diff, it goes in the stock tranny location in the back of the car, im not sure how the bell housing gets modified.
RCC is a member here, he has a C6 and under its former setup had 1100whp with a 4l80e setup, get this, so his wife could drive it! she cant drive a stick LOL. look at threads posted by Tiago, there is a red C6 from a few months back with a stock diff braced, with pics and explanations, thats made 950whp on pump gas
RCC is a member here, he has a C6 and under its former setup had 1100whp with a 4l80e setup, get this, so his wife could drive it! she cant drive a stick LOL. look at threads posted by Tiago, there is a red C6 from a few months back with a stock diff braced, with pics and explanations, thats made 950whp on pump gas