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first 6 pulls on ttech race system

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Old 02-10-2004 | 08:22 AM
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regulator is after the rails, check the sig photo link, its a CAS

50# at idle, 60 at 0 vaccum and then 1# per psi boost (so 70 right now)

i do have concerns about it on my lowered car. but that happened with my headers and y pipe and other tubo kits too, george tells me it looks fine on the ground.

i took the a/c off before i sent the car as it wasn't working and i never used it anyway. only reason i asked you about the reservoir is that i read you included one on ls1.com

i appreciate your enthusiasm as one of the leaders in the area

your right, its a HARD road to build this on what i take home.. just been chipping away at it the last 3 years with oh about 80% of my income.. then of course george jumped on and did the last big chunk

hope to be now just buying transmissions and clutches lol.

thanks guys
Old 02-10-2004 | 08:47 AM
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I had the Mcleod Street Twin clutch with aluminum flywheel and managed to tear it in two, the disc came out in two twisted chunks, I wouldn't recommend that set up to anyone in your power level. I have had great luck with the steel flywheel Mcleod and it has held up well with no slipping or breakage with lots of track and dyno abuse. Having tried most of the others this one seems to be the most up to task.

The transmission can be made very strong. I had my T56 blue printed and upgraded 4 years ago and it has never skipped a beat since . My tranny has suvived broken clutches, 4 snapped (stock) rear ends, bent driveshafts and many many 5000+ rpm dumps . To this day it still shifts smoothly and keeps ticking like a Timex watch. Way back then parts and labor for my tranny was well under $1,500, probably the best investment I have made on the car. The housing remains stack and most of the gears are original, the upgrades were in changing tolerances, upgrading syncros, shift fork and 2 lower gears. Shifting is firm and precise, many people have commented on how well the car shifts under all conditions.

Just some advice for you

Paul
Old 02-10-2004 | 09:13 AM
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Awesome MM! Glad to see to see that same ARE set-up doing fine


oh... and George is definitely DA MAN!
Old 02-10-2004 | 09:14 AM
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ok, Warbird... now it's your time to confess on your set-up! Come on... give it up
Old 02-10-2004 | 10:28 AM
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question for you.

I dont see room for an airfilter assembly on that kit. What are you going to use?

Also if the air intake is right off the turbo hot air from the fans/rad is going to go right into that turbo. Just curious if I am missing something? Also don't they have those airfilter screens you can use on the turbo?

Old 02-10-2004 | 10:46 AM
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I'm betting he's using an air screen. this is the race kit. also, ambient air temp into the turbo shouldnt matter too much when you are cooling it back down after it speeds up.
Old 02-10-2004 | 11:01 AM
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That's true but every little bit helps (Even if it is a 50-70 degree difference
Old 02-10-2004 | 11:40 AM
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man this is a great looking setup. I wonder if george will sell just the manifolds and crossovers?

I may ditch my old turbo tech setup for this.
finally the kit style and design that everyone has been waiting for

ed
Old 02-10-2004 | 11:48 AM
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notice the air filter in the pic

Old 02-10-2004 | 11:59 AM
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Interesting setup...

So your car is currently in WA?

I like how it's all routed.

Any comments regarding the Gen7 ie any difficulties or specia things you had to do to get it to work?
Old 02-10-2004 | 12:08 PM
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warbird, yes it will be for sale to install yourself.

the trans is built and i have a spare one getting rebuilt now... and probably owe spec a call on their new version stage 5's.

yes there is an air filter i believe its ducted from the passenger nose area so no screen/no rain/no heat..

psj yes the car is at turbotech, he built the system using my car

concerning the dfi, its all brand new to me.. man problem is getting the factory tach to work, joe overton nor george have worked that out yet. everything else seems just fine... the tach output from dfi is standard 8 cyl and the stock computer reads 4cyl.. so i reckon some backward branbox will be needed to convert the 8 back to 4.
but any aftermarket tach and shiftlight will work fine.. i'd just rather not go there.

nothing else is needed but they do offer a knock control system which i dont have as well as a splice in kit (not yet available far as accel goes) that will make it easier to cut everything to get what you need, which george did himself.
Old 02-10-2004 | 12:16 PM
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this just in!
Old 02-10-2004 | 12:20 PM
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also the spike was 11.5 psi on those heres more shots
Old 02-10-2004 | 12:22 PM
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oooooohhhhhh WOW WOW!!!!! I LOVE the smooth hp graph and how it carries out like it should. I think you should spin it up a little more
Old 02-10-2004 | 12:33 PM
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Is that an outhouse in the back? I guess George must live there as well

Nice power curve, it looks like it just keeps building smooth power with no drop off. Very nice, I hope I can come close to that kind of output on my street kit.

BTW in your turbo pictures; Is that a scavenging pump I see, and did you find the new kit still needed it? I also liked the placement of your oil cooler, I might try something like that myself.

Paul
Old 02-10-2004 | 12:42 PM
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ahh ok that is good about the filter

I'd love to see completed pics I might have to leave my AC off the car
Old 02-10-2004 | 12:50 PM
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warbird isnt that the water pump for the IC?

and if that peak power is from the 11.5psi spike it looks like it will pick up alot from the 1.5 psi increase, you need to be boosting with that 80
cant wait to see you run it up past 15psi
Old 02-10-2004 | 01:02 PM
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cool kit, doesn't look like a lot of parts. Would be nice if you could relocate the water canister so you can keep the A/C. I know I need that here down south!
Old 02-10-2004 | 01:08 PM
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Nice setup! FWIW, I picked up about 40rwhp going from a .96 ex housing to a 1.32 housing with that turbo. (R-trim exhaust wheel is a bit small for an 80mm compressor).

I think the GT80 could do 1000hp on a supra because it's much more efficient at those airflow rates at higher pressure ratios.

At a 2.0-2.2 pressure ratio, it would be below 60% efficiency at 90lb/min.

(Where you might be as far as boost/airflow on a larger v8)

At a 3.3-3.4 pressure ratio, it would be in the 70% efficiency range @90lb/min

(what you might see on a high boost smaller displacement engine)
Old 02-10-2004 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE
concerning the dfi, its all brand new to me.. man problem is getting the factory tach to work, joe overton nor george have worked that out yet. everything else seems just fine... the tach output from dfi is standard 8 cyl and the stock computer reads 4cyl.. so i reckon some backward branbox will be needed to convert the 8 back to 4.
but any aftermarket tach and shiftlight will work fine.. i'd just rather not go there.
They won't get the DFI to run the factory tach. Factory one isn't even run off the tach lead from the PCM. All done via serial data, same stuff Atap reads.

Looking good so far

On the cooler, someone asked. I've got 2 of the 231 cores, and that one is a single 230. Basically the same size, but mine is cut into 2.



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