Newbie looking to build 800+ HP engine needs help

I have a question. If you could get 800hp without revving to 8-8500 would that be ok with you? I think 800hp could be had relatively easily with the right motor/turbo setup but, the 8500rpm will make short work of the motor at those power levels. IMO I'm not saying the motor will last forever with 800hp alone but, adding the stress of spinning to 8500rpm is going to shorten the life of the motor(all components) drastically. How about an aluminum 382(stock bore, 4" stroke) or a iron 408 that only needs to be spun to 6000-6500 to make 800hp?
A 408 built to handle 14psi could make 800rwhp by 6000rpm or so. A 382 wouldn't need much more if you wanted to stick with the aluminum block.
Thanks Micael
If you really want to spin that high then a solid roller is pretty much a necessity. I would contact Futral Motorsports or Thunder Racing about the motor because they seem to have quite a bit of experience with solid roller LS1s. Links to their websites can be found over in the sponsors to the right.
Micael
Micael
Micael
Micael
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
For those type of rpms I'd go with a custom short stroke forged crank, strong rods, solid roller cam, big bore aluminum block(either resleeved or preferably a C5R case). The 4.8L truck crank has a 3.27" stroke but, I'd hate to test it out at those rpms and power level.
Check with those shops I mentioned earlier on the solid roller stuff. They can probably help you out on motor specs.

I'm not sure how you plan on keeping 800rwhp in check in that light car but, it sounds like it would be fun.

Good luck.
I'd run a 4.125 bore Dart block which is like $1999 with steel mains from Summit, and a set of good aftermarket heads which are like $2500 assembled. With a 3.48 stroke you could build a high revvin' SBC that displaces maybe 377ci and that can AND SHOULD rev to 8500.
I think the LT5 would be my last choice based on how expensive a stock crate motor is, unless I saw data regarding the valvetrain that validated going that way.
Don't know if I can change the final drive and if so how much, but I'm looking in to it, I also hope to be able to change first, but that seems to be harder and I don't know if the would weakend the gearbox. And since this box only hold some 650lbs of torque I will have to try to build an engine with high HP but lower lbs, been playing around with the Demo of DYNOSIM and from that it seems to be possible to build on. Have anyone here used Dynosim, planing to get the full version and really try it out, should be a good investment for only $130, test's have sown this program to be right on the money with power and time slips. And what is a CR5 case.
Again Thanks a lot guys.
Micael
GM Performance makes standard small block Chevy aluminum racing blocks. They'll set you back over $4000 dollars brand new for just the block. If you can pick up a GM Performance parts catalog they list all the available blocks.

To do what you want it's probably going to be cheaper to do it with a standard Small Block Chevy rather than an LS1 based motor. Parts are cheaper and the R&D has been done many times over to do what you want.
I think it's probably possible with a LS1 but, you'd be sailing in uncharted seas I think. This is just me, if I had a chassis and could use several different engines I'd pick the SBC based on your criteria.
Seeing an LS1 in there would be pretty awesome though.

Good luck.
But reading your post and reading an article somewhere about resleving the LS1 and using a 4.125" bore, I think that the LS1 can work and I would love to try it, but on the other hand if the standard LS1 block can handle the power I think that 5.7L is volume enough for me
to reach the power I want.Thanks Micael




