Turbo Camaro build - TC78 + 4L80e + E85
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Turbo Camaro build - TC78 + 4L80e + E85
Now that I have the majority of the parts I need to get moving on this build, it's time for a build thread.
My plans have changed several times since I started gathering parts last July. Initially it was a "budget" truck manifold build with an MPT70, 317 heads, LS6 cam, pump gas, and LS1. For a time, I decided I was going to swap in a 5.3L and run that...but finally I settled on keeping the LS1, feeding it e85, and will be running this setup:
Engine:
2002 LS1
Stock LS1 heads
ARP head studs
LS9 head gaskets
Patriot Gold dual valve springs
TSP hardened pushrods
LS6 cam
LS6 intake manifold
P&P stock throttle body
Fueling:
80lb Siemens injectors
stock fuel rails/lines
dual in tank pumps (probably Walbro's)
E85
Transmission:
4L80e
~3600 RPM stall (probably a Circle D multi disc)
having it mildly built
Power adder:
"truck manifold" hot side plumbing
Turbonetics TC78 with 1.15 AR turbine housing
Tial 38mm wastegate (still have from when I was planning the MPT70, we'll see if it works)
Tial 50mm blowoff valve
Treadstone intercooler, ebay 3" plumbing
Exhaust:
3" downpipe
SLP Loudmouth I "cat back" with Borla XR1 race muffler
SLP tips
Cooling:
Summit Racing radiator (still researching model and dimensions)
depending on space, i will try keeping puller style fans
I do plan to address the suspension and rear end once the car is "back together" - it's been on blocks in my driveway for too long so I want to at least get it running and driveable. I'll probably go with a 9" rear, unsure on suspension yet - I'm not looking to go for an all out drag car, so I need to research how to strike a happy medium. Plus, I'm way over budget right now. Heh.
(more coming soon)
My plans have changed several times since I started gathering parts last July. Initially it was a "budget" truck manifold build with an MPT70, 317 heads, LS6 cam, pump gas, and LS1. For a time, I decided I was going to swap in a 5.3L and run that...but finally I settled on keeping the LS1, feeding it e85, and will be running this setup:
Engine:
2002 LS1
Stock LS1 heads
ARP head studs
LS9 head gaskets
Patriot Gold dual valve springs
TSP hardened pushrods
LS6 cam
LS6 intake manifold
P&P stock throttle body
Fueling:
80lb Siemens injectors
stock fuel rails/lines
dual in tank pumps (probably Walbro's)
E85
Transmission:
4L80e
~3600 RPM stall (probably a Circle D multi disc)
having it mildly built
Power adder:
"truck manifold" hot side plumbing
Turbonetics TC78 with 1.15 AR turbine housing
Tial 38mm wastegate (still have from when I was planning the MPT70, we'll see if it works)
Tial 50mm blowoff valve
Treadstone intercooler, ebay 3" plumbing
Exhaust:
3" downpipe
SLP Loudmouth I "cat back" with Borla XR1 race muffler
SLP tips
Cooling:
Summit Racing radiator (still researching model and dimensions)
depending on space, i will try keeping puller style fans
I do plan to address the suspension and rear end once the car is "back together" - it's been on blocks in my driveway for too long so I want to at least get it running and driveable. I'll probably go with a 9" rear, unsure on suspension yet - I'm not looking to go for an all out drag car, so I need to research how to strike a happy medium. Plus, I'm way over budget right now. Heh.
(more coming soon)
Last edited by evo462; 02-11-2011 at 01:19 PM.
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I bought the car last May, and did the whole "bolt on" thing with the intention to do a head/cam/intake swap over the winter. I started adding up the costs of doing that, and thought that I could probably do a "budget" turbo build for close to the same cost (which I estimated around $3000-$3500 for a LS6 2.5/TSP cam/FAST intake setup) and come out with a good bit more power.
To make a long story short, I decided that I'd go ahead and pull the motor/trans in preparation for a 5.3L swap. I was on the fence about keeping my T56, and eventually decided that it would be cost prohibitive (for me) to keep it running with my power goals, and that combined with the fact the turbo would appreciate an auto more, I decided to sell the T56 while it was still in mint condition to fund the 4L80e build. About the same time, I decided to run my LS1 for now and hope it lasts a couple years, then build something bigger when/if it lets go.
Pulling the motor was pretty easy, despite the fact I'd never done it before. I'm handy enough with a wrench, so I was confident I could do it. To be honest, the header install seemed like a bigger PITA to me. I used the two below guides, and did it leisurely over the course of a couple days. Due to limited daylight and cold weather, I was limited to 5-6 hours of work a day.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ne-bottom.html
http://www.z28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=116425
(power steering fluid...woops.)
To make a long story short, I decided that I'd go ahead and pull the motor/trans in preparation for a 5.3L swap. I was on the fence about keeping my T56, and eventually decided that it would be cost prohibitive (for me) to keep it running with my power goals, and that combined with the fact the turbo would appreciate an auto more, I decided to sell the T56 while it was still in mint condition to fund the 4L80e build. About the same time, I decided to run my LS1 for now and hope it lasts a couple years, then build something bigger when/if it lets go.
Pulling the motor was pretty easy, despite the fact I'd never done it before. I'm handy enough with a wrench, so I was confident I could do it. To be honest, the header install seemed like a bigger PITA to me. I used the two below guides, and did it leisurely over the course of a couple days. Due to limited daylight and cold weather, I was limited to 5-6 hours of work a day.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ne-bottom.html
http://www.z28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=116425
(power steering fluid...woops.)
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I'm pretty much just waiting on my cam install kit, head studs, and pushrods to get here and then I can swap the cam out, do the valve spring/head gasket install, and begin bolting everything back together on the engine.
I still need to order my transmission parts, so I'll probably just wait to put the K member/engine back in the car until it is rebuilt and I have my converter...should make it easier.
I test fitted the exhaust plumbing for my turbo and everything checks out, so I'm satisfied with putting it on the car.
Hoping to have the engine work all done by next weekend since the remaining parts are in transit at this time.
Yep.
Oh yeah...my power goals are a solid 600 RWHP, and somewhere in the 10's as far as the 1/4 mile is concerned.
I read the "forced induction sticky" back when I was first planning this whole thing out and scoffed at the "calculate your costs, then double it". Ha. No it's true. If you're considering a FI build, seriously, double it. I'm sure it'll be worth it in the end though. I should come out of this whole thing pretty good as far as total costs are concerned when factoring in the parts I've sold that were no longer needed.
I still need to order my transmission parts, so I'll probably just wait to put the K member/engine back in the car until it is rebuilt and I have my converter...should make it easier.
I test fitted the exhaust plumbing for my turbo and everything checks out, so I'm satisfied with putting it on the car.
Hoping to have the engine work all done by next weekend since the remaining parts are in transit at this time.
Yep.
Oh yeah...my power goals are a solid 600 RWHP, and somewhere in the 10's as far as the 1/4 mile is concerned.
I read the "forced induction sticky" back when I was first planning this whole thing out and scoffed at the "calculate your costs, then double it". Ha. No it's true. If you're considering a FI build, seriously, double it. I'm sure it'll be worth it in the end though. I should come out of this whole thing pretty good as far as total costs are concerned when factoring in the parts I've sold that were no longer needed.
Last edited by evo462; 02-11-2011 at 01:27 PM.
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Well...I've once again changed directions with the build (and BTW, the above pictured turbo plumbing is about to be listed for sale).
I'm going to make a last ditch effort to keep my air conditioning, as well as radiator in the stock location. I got to reading on the "C6 LS2 Corvette exhaust manifold" builds to route the passenger side piping around the AC compressor and got a wild hair and decided to give it a shot. One of my friends is a commercial welder, so he said he was willing to help/advise/teach so I ordered a ton of mandrel bends and bought a welder and am going to try fabbing up my own. It'll either turn out to be a great idea, or I'll end up wasting some expensive mandrel bends. Everything I've read indicated a high clearance K member was required, so I had to ditch the stock K member in favor of a BMR "turbo" K member (which is supposed to be here Monday).
2.5" merge plumbing, 3" downpipe (might switch to 4" in the future if I ever crank the PSI up a bunch, but I already ordered the 3" so WTH). I have my engine on an engine stand to do head and cam work, so once I get the K member I'll attach it and begin piecing it all together. A pretty major last minute change, but I'm hoping I can pull it off in a reasonable amount of time and have it ready to go in April!
Super builder 3" kit, Ultimate builder 2.5" kit from mandrel-bends.com. Two 3" vbands (the downpipe will be two pieces) and two 2.5" vbands. I'm pretty sure I overbought as far as mandrel bends are concerned, but I wanted some "room for error".
Hobart Handler 140 - always wanted a welder, what better excuse?
I considered possibly being in over my head before...now I'm sure of it. Not too worried, with the guidance of an experienced welder, it shouldn't be too bad.
I'm going to make a last ditch effort to keep my air conditioning, as well as radiator in the stock location. I got to reading on the "C6 LS2 Corvette exhaust manifold" builds to route the passenger side piping around the AC compressor and got a wild hair and decided to give it a shot. One of my friends is a commercial welder, so he said he was willing to help/advise/teach so I ordered a ton of mandrel bends and bought a welder and am going to try fabbing up my own. It'll either turn out to be a great idea, or I'll end up wasting some expensive mandrel bends. Everything I've read indicated a high clearance K member was required, so I had to ditch the stock K member in favor of a BMR "turbo" K member (which is supposed to be here Monday).
2.5" merge plumbing, 3" downpipe (might switch to 4" in the future if I ever crank the PSI up a bunch, but I already ordered the 3" so WTH). I have my engine on an engine stand to do head and cam work, so once I get the K member I'll attach it and begin piecing it all together. A pretty major last minute change, but I'm hoping I can pull it off in a reasonable amount of time and have it ready to go in April!
Super builder 3" kit, Ultimate builder 2.5" kit from mandrel-bends.com. Two 3" vbands (the downpipe will be two pieces) and two 2.5" vbands. I'm pretty sure I overbought as far as mandrel bends are concerned, but I wanted some "room for error".
Hobart Handler 140 - always wanted a welder, what better excuse?
I considered possibly being in over my head before...now I'm sure of it. Not too worried, with the guidance of an experienced welder, it shouldn't be too bad.
#12
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Damn this is pretty much exactly the same thing that I am doing with my WS6. I'm doing the c6/truck manifold build to keep as much of the accessories that I can. I'm going to be running e85 as well for sure now. The only thing that I'm wondering is if the stock lines are going to be alright running e85...?
Oh and looking forward to watching the build!
Oh and looking forward to watching the build!
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Lowering compression is a strategy to prevent pre-detonation - which is more of a factor when running pump gas. E85 helps prevent pre-detonation, so there isn't as much of a need to lower compression. Higher compression + more boost + no pre-detonation = win