02 LS1.... Build for Boost
#1
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: FL
Posts: 398
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
02 LS1.... Build for Boost
I've got a stock motor 02 LS1 getting ready for H/C install. Turns out, the AFR 225's (#1630) I bought are the 72cc Comb. Chamber heads. They've been milled down slightly twice already. This should put me at 70cc or so. From what I've read my CR will be in the area of 9.2 or 9.3, depending on Head Gasket thickness. Turns out this will be perfect for the boost I wanted anyway, pending $$$.
I wanted to go with a ProCharger D1SC to avoid oil feeds, extra piping, etc. I know it takes power to make power and turbo's are better. Just trying to keep everything simple on this one. I want the car to run decent until I get the ProCharger. Basically, guide me in the right direction and build it right the first time.
I do have a few questions on the basics....
The car will be stock internals, no pistons or rods. Tranny is already built and I've got a VIG 4000 stall.
1. It will have AFR 225 heads, 72cc Combustion Chambers. What is a good head gasket for the boost it will get later? I've heard the stock 02 MLS gaskets are good. Will these hold up under 8# or so?
2. Head Studs or Head Bolts? I don't plan on going too radical on this because I know the motor will pop if I go crazy! So, will the ARP head bolts do for boost, on a stock motor? Obviously, I won't be running 12-15# on this thing. Decided to go with ARP Head Studs, 234-4110
3. What is a good size cam for the ProCharger? Don't want to buy another cam later. I know these run smaller than regular N/A cams do.
Ordered the EPP/Brute Speed Blower Cam
4. Are the LS7 lifters good for boost? I was picking out everything BEFORE I bought the AFR heads. The LS7's are what everyone seems to be going to nowadays.
Ordered LS7 Lifters
I don't want to go cheap on things, if it's just going to break! I only want to do this once and hope it lasts awhile.
I wanted to go with a ProCharger D1SC to avoid oil feeds, extra piping, etc. I know it takes power to make power and turbo's are better. Just trying to keep everything simple on this one. I want the car to run decent until I get the ProCharger. Basically, guide me in the right direction and build it right the first time.
I do have a few questions on the basics....
The car will be stock internals, no pistons or rods. Tranny is already built and I've got a VIG 4000 stall.
1. It will have AFR 225 heads, 72cc Combustion Chambers. What is a good head gasket for the boost it will get later? I've heard the stock 02 MLS gaskets are good. Will these hold up under 8# or so?
2. Head Studs or Head Bolts? I don't plan on going too radical on this because I know the motor will pop if I go crazy! So, will the ARP head bolts do for boost, on a stock motor? Obviously, I won't be running 12-15# on this thing. Decided to go with ARP Head Studs, 234-4110
3. What is a good size cam for the ProCharger? Don't want to buy another cam later. I know these run smaller than regular N/A cams do.
Ordered the EPP/Brute Speed Blower Cam
4. Are the LS7 lifters good for boost? I was picking out everything BEFORE I bought the AFR heads. The LS7's are what everyone seems to be going to nowadays.
Ordered LS7 Lifters
I don't want to go cheap on things, if it's just going to break! I only want to do this once and hope it lasts awhile.
Last edited by Mike 02T/A; 08-05-2015 at 01:06 PM.
#2
TECH Resident
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Faribault, MN
Posts: 882
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1. The new LS9 MLS gaskets are probably the best but any MLS gasket should work just fine. Stick with the GM ones.
2. Studs will allow for room to grow but I went with ARP head bolts myself. I haven't heard of much in the way of failure from them on a moderate build.
3. Lots of companies make good FI cams, ask around with TSP and a few other sponsors. I ended up going with an '02 LS6 Z06 cam. Pretty popular choice with the budget builders.
4. Go with the LS7s. Very good all around lifter if you won't be getting too crazy. Get yourself new lifter trays as well. Cheap insurance.
2. Studs will allow for room to grow but I went with ARP head bolts myself. I haven't heard of much in the way of failure from them on a moderate build.
3. Lots of companies make good FI cams, ask around with TSP and a few other sponsors. I ended up going with an '02 LS6 Z06 cam. Pretty popular choice with the budget builders.
4. Go with the LS7s. Very good all around lifter if you won't be getting too crazy. Get yourself new lifter trays as well. Cheap insurance.
#5
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Miami gardens FL 33055
Posts: 1,023
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
For camshaft choice, it have to sound good... so duration on the intake 232 lsa 116, now for timing chain if your engine have a chain tensioner, just replace the Chane and keep the factory one, because any Chane without the tensioner will make noise, and at the power level you describe you should be just fine...
#7
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: FL
Posts: 398
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Anyone know the Part # for the ARP Rod Bolts? I heard the ARP's didn't fit perfect, had to enlarge the rod bolt holes. Is this old news and it's been resolved? Just want to get the right part. My head studs were ordered this morning. Now I need to decide on Head Gasket thickness and the cam.
Trending Topics
#12
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: FL
Posts: 398
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ordered my Cloyes chain, Comp Cams Pushrods, MLS head gaskets and lifter trays this morning. Just got to track down some injectors. After that, it's the cam, headers and exhaust.
#15
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: FL
Posts: 398
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
https://ls1tech.com/forums/advanced-...ume-vs-cr.html
#16
TECH Resident
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Posts: 853
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I got it from one of the stickies in the Internal Engine section. It's old, but I think they would've removed it if it was the wrong data.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/advanced-...ume-vs-cr.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/advanced-...ume-vs-cr.html
#18
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: FL
Posts: 398
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Got my TSP 1 7/8 headers today. Waiting on the TD's to arrive. Also got my GM MLS headers gaskets and a 160* thermostat. Payday is here, finally deciding on a cam tonight!
#19
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: FL
Posts: 398
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bump for rod bolt info.....
Anyone know the Part # for the ARP Rod Bolts? I heard the ARP's didn't fit perfect, had to enlarge the rod bolt holes. Is this old news and it's been resolved? Just want to get the right part.
Anyone know the Part # for the ARP Rod Bolts? I heard the ARP's didn't fit perfect, had to enlarge the rod bolt holes. Is this old news and it's been resolved? Just want to get the right part.
#20
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 608
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I know a few guys that have done rod bolts and they were a simple direct fit. I think the trick is to remove and fit just one at a time so you don't disturb the cap alignment then torque up.
man you're so far into this thing, why no save a bit more cash and do forged pistons and rods and never have to worry about the bottom end again....
man you're so far into this thing, why no save a bit more cash and do forged pistons and rods and never have to worry about the bottom end again....