After a little mishap 2 weeks ago, My ls2 no longer has oil pressure and theirs a lot of bearing materiel in the oil, so shes coming apart.
I have read that the aluminum ls2 block is not a good block for higher hp.

Im being told by procharger the f1 blower should produce around 1100-1000 flywheel hp on the ls engine.
The bottom end will be completely forged with ported 243 heads and im looking to see 22-20psi of boost, will the aluminum block hold up to this power level???
I need some opinions from the you guys!!!

 

I went with a iron 370 with callies crank, callies I beam rods and wiesco pistons from LME....it will have a F1A....still in the process of putting it together though lol

 

Ironblock with a DM Performance main girdle.

 

Iron block. Sure you're gonna get 20-22 PSI? That's a lot of boost and with an F-1 that's gonna be an insane amount of power. Typically ~18 PSI on a similarly cubed engine with D1SC will net you over 800, and through an auto. I think 20 will be overkill if you're setup is able to reach that number

 

procharger says the blower should make 1100-1000 fly wheel hp on the ls engine and 4psi more then the d1sc, so it should put down high 800rwhp, I already have a 800rwhp 454ss truck thats just nuts on the street, I seem to go over kill on my builds, figured if your going to build, build it big

 

I would also go with the iron block if you trying to max an f1. You didn't specify which one so I would asume an F1A or C. My local shop dyno'd a vette with an F1C at 960rwhp. I've seen the D1s get 850rwhp in best case scenarios. Will be hard to do with stock casting heads. You'll need some thick decked aftermarket heads and apr2000 studs at minimum to keep the gasket intact.

 

I vote for iron.. Thats what I did.

 

I think it's just a normal F-1, like what ChevyChad has, though this guy probably has the newer model with the higher step up ratio.

OP I could definitely see 1100-1200 FLYWHEEL hp with an F-1. At the wheels, mmm, not so much

 

^^^ yes 1100 flywheel.. its just the straight f1 (5.40) (not D,A,C,or the R) If I go to a iron block how much work is it going to take to convert my wiring to the iron block??? cam sensor,knock sensor, oil pressure what else.
Is this going to be a headache to switch over???????

 

No mods needed man Not wiring-wise anyway.. F-bodies need to drill and tap an extra hole for the alternator bracket, but I'm not sure if the GTO uses that bolt hole...

 

An iron block will hold that power. Hell ive seen stock crank 370's hold that power easily.

 

I wouldn't hesitate using an LS2 block, back at the old shop we built quite a few high horse-powered aluminum block engines, and many of them years later are running very strong. I see your cylinder heads being the weak parts in your build for max boost from an F-1/F-1A. I wouldn't run more than 16 psi from a ProCharger with stock style cylinder heads, you'll more than likely end up having problems with lifting the head gaskets. AFR, Trick Flow and RHS make heads with thicker decks on them. With a 400 or so cubic inch build, you should see boost in the 20 psi range, but this depends on quite a few variables. Bob

How much boost the blower can produce depends on many variables.
* Cubic inch. The larger the engine the less boost it will make with a supercharger.
* Headers and exhaust. A better flowing system will produce less boost, requires a smaller pulley to regain the loss in boost. Ultimately though, more power will be gained.
* Camshaft and heads. A camshaft with some overlap will leak out some boost through the valves. Better flowing heads react a lot like a better flowing exhaust system.
* Altitude. Elevation plays a big part in how much boost is produced. Those people living in the higher elevations have to spin the blower harder to see boost.
* Condition of engine. An engine with real good sealing rings will ultimately produce more boost than one with worn rings.
* Rpm. An engine that is spun up higher in the rpm range will normally produce more boost.

 

I plan on staying with the 364,
So the head problem will be from the head distorting under extreme cylinder pressure, the thicker deck head will keep the head from flexing.

 

Correct. Bob

 

YES, we need to drill and tap that hole

 

AL blocks have been proven at those power levels. I think your biggest problem will be keeping the cyl heads down/ pushing water. I chose a FE block because of how much cheaper it was. I would deff get a set of aftermarket cast heads as it seems like your going to. I would also look into getting it set up for pyramid rings, as that will for sure keep you from pushing water. I have a very similar build going on at the moment. LQ9 block, 370ci, 243 heads (for now). I hope to make into the 700's with these heads and then swap them out after I finish my fuel system. Check out my build thread, as it has a lot of pics of the LQ9 block. https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...-f1-370-a.html

 

LS2 not good for boost? Fireball's managed.

 

Talking with AES right now about doing a 750-800 rwhp LS2 and they're completely ok with it to 1200 FW before they say to look into iron. I don't plan to go beyond that power level for quite some time since it's not a drag only car so i'll take the weight savings for a few hundred dollars more! If you think you will exceed 1200 FW in the future, i'd say go iron. Sounds like a nice build either way!!

 

800-900rwhp is what im looking to build, the 243 will have to do for now as I had no plans of doing this build at this time

fireball made what kinda power out of is block?
thanks... I really had all intentions of running my stock engine with 13psi of boost this year and maybe the following year, so this is a little bit of a budget build

 

Ill be going with an iron block. I know aluminum works just fine too but I feel like the iron block is a larger safety net since it can handle much greater heat without distortion. Obviously this "greater heat" will damage everything else anyway lol