building a 98 z28, fully forged stock cube ls1, early ebay turbo kit, mp t70 and all supporting goodies and i have a few questions,

1. has anyone ever tried running the oil return line into the oil level sensor location? its already threaded and is a good location, would be running a scavenger pump as well to ensure drainage...if this is a bad idea, where should i run it!?

2. i plan on running 10-11psi because its a 98 and im keeping the mafs on, running 60lb injectors, will one walboro 255 in tank keep up with it, or will i need 2? if i have to do two, what kind of wiring do i need to do, or will the stock harness support both if i just splice them together?

thats all for now, might have some more questions eventually, thanks in advance!

 

This should give you good info on dual fuel pumps if you go that route

https://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-i...ick-cheap.html

 

thanks for the reply, very good info, but wondering if i NEED to run 2 pumps??still need some info on oil return location question too...thanks.

 

I would do 2 pumps if i were you. It isnt hard to do yourself but for a little extra you can just buy a really nice kit. You might be able to do it on one pump and a hot wire kit, but you wont know until its done. There again for a little extra you might as well do 2 pumps and have room to grow later and it is done correctly. Because you will want more boost I promise you

price out the 2 pumps and all necessary relays, wiring, etc. and to me it is worth it to have someone do it for you. I really like my lonnies set up

 

I think the oil light sensor is under the oil level correct? You might have drainage problems, the drain should should be above the oil level but lower than the Turbo.

 

Drain it to the pan. Cheaper and more efficient.

You will need to pumps.

You are going to need one hell of a tuner to scale that Maxed out Maf table.

 

mustangbrker, this is your old kit if you dont remember.....the low oil level sensor is in the pan, but i do think it is under the oil level...that wont work....if my tuner cant handle the maf, i guess ill have to do a pcm/wiring swap to 99+ no biggie. where into the pan is a good location for return, and mustang, where did u set up the feed line to come from? the block above oil filter??? thanks.

 

I remember now lol

I had mine tapped into the pan above the oil level sensor. You can't put it in that sensor as that is not above the oil level.

My feed line was coming from that block above the filter. I went ahead and went with a aftermarket one though.

 

aftermarket what? can you buy a plate that goes there thats already tapped and u just screw it in and ur done?? that would be awesome. hey mustang how bout i fly u out here and u show me how all this **** works lol jk

 

Lingenfelter makes one but the stock one will work if you drill it and tap it for a AN-NPT threaded fitting.

I am working on two cars of my own currently and one in the row waiting.

 

I've seen the oil drain in the front engine cover too. Just have to drill and tap for an an fitting, or weld a bung.

 

does anyone have a picture of a good spot to drill the pan for the return line!? thats about all thats stoppin me from gettin the pan on and the motor in the car

 

I'll see if I have a good pic of when I did mine.

 

cool, if its easier, email it to pichee24@yahoo.com...thanks

 

As someone else already pointed out, we do offer such an adapter. Actually we have two adapters for supplying oil to turbocharged applications. One is an oil cooler (-10 lines), oil temperature sensor and turbocharger oil supply adapter (Part Number: L300025297). The other one is just for the oil supply and the temperature sensor (Part Number: L300015297). I attached pictures of both. Fittings are included to plug the temperature sensor and oil supply fitting holes if you aren't going to use them.

[SIDE NOTE: DO NOT CAP the -10 lines on the oil cooler adapter since our adapter does not provide a bypass path and is designed to run 100% of your oil pump flow to the oil cooler (we have had people do this).]

As someone else mentioned you can also drill and tap the stock part - just be careful where and how you do so because the cast factory part is fairly thin in some areas.

If you don't want to weld a return to the pan, depending on the scavenge pump you are using, most of them can lift the oil fairly high (they can lift better than they can pull) so you can often return to the valve covers as well. We normally build a tank or tanks that the turboochargers drain into and then scavenge that tank (or those tanks). Make sure you have enough volume in the tank(s) so that any oil draining out of the turbochargers from the feed AND the drain lines/scavenge pump and lines won't backup into the turbocharger. Turbochargers use dynamic seals that don't seal out oil if the turbocharger isn't spinning. You don't want any oil backing up into the turbocharger on shut down.

If you are using ball bearing turbochargers and depending on the type/size/oil flow requirements of turbocharger being used you may need to put a restrictor in the oil line feeding the turbochargers. If you don't do that you may provide too much oil at high engine oil pressures. Your turbocharger supplier should be able to tell you the oil flow rate requirements for the turbochargers you are using. On the GT28 and GT30 Garrett ball bearing turbochargers we normally run one 0.030" orifice for the pair of turbochargers. You also want a filter before the orifice so that you don't clog the orifice and starve the turbochargers of oil. We put the orifice and the filter in the fitting coming out of the oil adapter just before it T's off to go to the two turbochargers.

Even if you don't run an orifice, many turbochargers will have an orifice on the inlet fitting and you should consider adding a replaceable filter in the oil line before that to keep from clogging that orifice. Where in the oil flow you get your oil (filter out vs elsewhere in the circuit) can make it more critical to do so.

If you are using a water cooled turbocharger you can get the coolant from the threaded plugs in the side of the block. You can modifiy/tap those fittings or you can purchase fittings made to go into the block. We make them but for some reason we don't seem to sell them to the public (I couldn't find them on the web site). If people are interested in them I will tell the web site guys to get them added. Attached is a picture of the coolant fitting for the block as well (Part Number: L300035297).

 

For the Turbo drain I would test fit the motor in the car and select the drain location that way. Just to make sure the k member clears and such. Usually right behind the starter is a good spot. Up high near the oil pan rail and behind the starter. It also depends on where you plan on placing the Turbo(s). If you run the Turbo in front of the accessories then probably in the front engine cover would be better.

 

thanks for the info and replies, i returned it on the drivers side at the top of the pan, i didnt check it on the k member first but thankfully it worked out ok! the line is downhill all the way to the pan so no need for a scavenge pump anymore...and i drilled and tapped the stock part, worked out good as well, but as i said thanks for all the info!