370 BWS480 in 240z - 60ft help needed
#1
370 BWS480 in 240z - 60ft help needed
I took the car out last November and it ran 11.1 @ 133 3 times in a row with 1.8 60ft. (dyno numbers were 511whp sae) I could build about 2psi on the t-brake but I would have to sit on it for 6 seconds (scary).
Over the winter I re-dyno with more boost and got it to 695whp on 18psi. The night before the track I tested the my staging and was able to build 5 psi on the foot brake and hold about the same on the t brake.
Now this weekend at the track It would'nt build any boost on the foot brake and only 2 psi on the t brake. Best 60ft was 2.1 and I pulled a 11.6 and 11.7 @ 138. The thing totally comes alive at half track.
So I'm looking for a critic or opinions on how to optimism my setup. I figure I have 3 choices. 1) Get a higher stall converter. 2)Run N20 to spool the turbo. 3) Redesign the turbo kit with with truck mani's and 2.5 crossover to a divided flange.
I should also mention that I'm at 5500ft above sea level.
My setup:
LQ4 30 over
8.5:1 Wiseco Pistons
317 heads
Z06 Cam
GMPP Single Plane intake
edlebrock low elbow
90mm tbody
3 inch chargepipe
Turbo kit:
Turbular headers to 3inch crossover to 4inch merge collector
Turbo is a Borg Warner t6 96mm/ 1.32ar exhaust and 80mm compressor
Homemade quickspool valve - opens at 14psi
Trans and converter came with the rolling chassis when I bought it.
Trans is a powerglide with 3.23 in the rearend
The converter was custom made supposed to be for turbo and stalled at 3800.
Also attached is a datalog of my last run.
Over the winter I re-dyno with more boost and got it to 695whp on 18psi. The night before the track I tested the my staging and was able to build 5 psi on the foot brake and hold about the same on the t brake.
Now this weekend at the track It would'nt build any boost on the foot brake and only 2 psi on the t brake. Best 60ft was 2.1 and I pulled a 11.6 and 11.7 @ 138. The thing totally comes alive at half track.
So I'm looking for a critic or opinions on how to optimism my setup. I figure I have 3 choices. 1) Get a higher stall converter. 2)Run N20 to spool the turbo. 3) Redesign the turbo kit with with truck mani's and 2.5 crossover to a divided flange.
I should also mention that I'm at 5500ft above sea level.
My setup:
LQ4 30 over
8.5:1 Wiseco Pistons
317 heads
Z06 Cam
GMPP Single Plane intake
edlebrock low elbow
90mm tbody
3 inch chargepipe
Turbo kit:
Turbular headers to 3inch crossover to 4inch merge collector
Turbo is a Borg Warner t6 96mm/ 1.32ar exhaust and 80mm compressor
Homemade quickspool valve - opens at 14psi
Trans and converter came with the rolling chassis when I bought it.
Trans is a powerglide with 3.23 in the rearend
The converter was custom made supposed to be for turbo and stalled at 3800.
Also attached is a datalog of my last run.
#2
you need to run a 2 step that can also pull a bunch of timing and pump extra fuel down the turbo to spool it. the nmca guys pull this trick and it pops and bangs but gets a bunch of extra fuel into the turbo at low rpms to spool it without running against the torq convertor and heating it up.
nitrous is ok too, but not really needed when you can "spool with fuel" which is really all it takes
the rally car guys put an injector on the hot side of the turbo and just do it with raw gas!!!
getting boost off the line will get your 60 ft time down as long as the chassis can plant the power
NICE car. I had a BB chevy in the 240z but this a much nicer an more sano setup.
good luck, boostamuv
nitrous is ok too, but not really needed when you can "spool with fuel" which is really all it takes
the rally car guys put an injector on the hot side of the turbo and just do it with raw gas!!!
getting boost off the line will get your 60 ft time down as long as the chassis can plant the power
NICE car. I had a BB chevy in the 240z but this a much nicer an more sano setup.
good luck, boostamuv
#3
nitrous doesnt sound like a bad idea if you dont mind being dependent on it for spool, sounds like best bang for the buck since you can always use it for additional power and spray through the whole 1/4, other options you listed will make car 60 better but wont add any power.....jst my 2 cents
#4
that also a huge turbo and you are not in the "sweet spot" to get much response off the line. that's why the car "comes alive" at mid track.
it's WAAAAAYYYYYYYY too big for 700 at the tire. more like 1500!!!
not saying it can't work, but sounds like the car is running a lazy 1/8 mile and 60 ft.
once you get it sorted out and get the boost up on the line, you'll get that thing giving you all you can handle by 100 ft out which is what the turbo should be sized to deliver
not familiar with that turbo but it's gynormous
nice car man
it's WAAAAAYYYYYYYY too big for 700 at the tire. more like 1500!!!
not saying it can't work, but sounds like the car is running a lazy 1/8 mile and 60 ft.
once you get it sorted out and get the boost up on the line, you'll get that thing giving you all you can handle by 100 ft out which is what the turbo should be sized to deliver
not familiar with that turbo but it's gynormous
nice car man
#5
I can two step it in neutral and hit full boost. But with it in gear or on the brake it wont rev high enough. After putting in the spool valve I'm afraid of blowing it to pieces two stepping.
Here is a video from saturday. The launch makes me sad. I also wish I could hear the car. Track had some music blaring in the stands.
Video of the run
I have come to realize that the turbo is a little big. I really would like 850ish hp but I don't think I have the displacement / heads / cam to spin it up high enough. I Have considered a different turbo. I was looking at the t4 87mm turbine of the same turbo or precision 80mm. But that may have to happen later on.
Anyone want to suggest a good torque converter?
Here is a video from saturday. The launch makes me sad. I also wish I could hear the car. Track had some music blaring in the stands.
Video of the run
I have come to realize that the turbo is a little big. I really would like 850ish hp but I don't think I have the displacement / heads / cam to spin it up high enough. I Have considered a different turbo. I was looking at the t4 87mm turbine of the same turbo or precision 80mm. But that may have to happen later on.
Anyone want to suggest a good torque converter?
Last edited by sq_creations; 03-14-2011 at 06:09 PM.
#7
TECH Addict
iTrader: (77)
Your going to get a tons of things reccomended for this problem.
tune...timing and air fuel while building boost
cam...advance the camshaft
converter...loosened
hotside...could be smaller
turbo...smaller exhaust wheel and smaller a/r
Spool valve...make sure its staying closed and sealing good
Cold side...make sure there are no intercooler/piping leaks
I was able to build more boost with that same turbo on stock bottom end 5.3l and 5.7l engines. What rpm does the converter go to while on the trans brake?
tune...timing and air fuel while building boost
cam...advance the camshaft
converter...loosened
hotside...could be smaller
turbo...smaller exhaust wheel and smaller a/r
Spool valve...make sure its staying closed and sealing good
Cold side...make sure there are no intercooler/piping leaks
I was able to build more boost with that same turbo on stock bottom end 5.3l and 5.7l engines. What rpm does the converter go to while on the trans brake?
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#8
I that last log I posted it was at 3375rpm right before I let off the t brake. At the last years track session It started at 2800rpm and after 6 seconds slowly went up to 3700rpm.
Afr's are mid 11's for the whole run. I'm running e85 also. I Optimized the timing in boost on the dyno. I have it at about 30deg at wot with no boost ramping to 22deg at 18psi.
Afr's are mid 11's for the whole run. I'm running e85 also. I Optimized the timing in boost on the dyno. I have it at about 30deg at wot with no boost ramping to 22deg at 18psi.
#9
TECH Addict
iTrader: (77)
I that last log I posted it was at 3375rpm right before I let off the t brake. At the last years track session It started at 2800rpm and after 6 seconds slowly went up to 3700rpm.
Afr's are mid 11's for the whole run. I'm running e85 also. I Optimized the timing in boost on the dyno. I have it at about 30deg at wot with no boost ramping to 22deg at 18psi.
Afr's are mid 11's for the whole run. I'm running e85 also. I Optimized the timing in boost on the dyno. I have it at about 30deg at wot with no boost ramping to 22deg at 18psi.
#10
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
that 3" crossover is killing it IMHO, but there seems to be other problems. I ran the same hotside S475, 96mm/1.32 with no spool valve on a completely stock LQ4 with a big N/A cam and a 3200 stall. I could make 8psi on the footbrake, would do more but the brakes wouldnt hold it. I made a plate to completely block off one side of the housing (like a spool valve) and could make 16psi by 3500rpm. This leads me to beleive your tune in that area is WAY off, or you have a massive leak somewhere
#14
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (16)
That turbo should work fine. I wouldn't go changing components until you've exhausted all other options.
Now 2 psi on the tbrake, even though it's only 2 psi, should net much better than a 2.1 60'. Something else is going on. I suspect tuning and converter.
Also something to think about. I presume this is a relatively light car. Picking up only 5 mph on the big end with an extra 200whp ain't right.
Let's see slips of all the passes last year and this year.
Now 2 psi on the tbrake, even though it's only 2 psi, should net much better than a 2.1 60'. Something else is going on. I suspect tuning and converter.
Also something to think about. I presume this is a relatively light car. Picking up only 5 mph on the big end with an extra 200whp ain't right.
Let's see slips of all the passes last year and this year.
#16
Restricted User
iTrader: (17)
Step one. Add timing down low below 4K RPM and under 130 KPA. Like set it in the high 20's to low 30's to start. See how high you can get up on the tbrake in 2-3 seconds.
Step two. Set the 2 step RPM just below that.
Step three. Buy and install a boost controller that can use CO2 like the AMS500.
Step four. Add 10 psi of CO2 to the launch stage on the gate.
Step five. Get up on the 2 step and see how high it'll go on boost. Adjust boost controller launch stage up or down until you achieve desired launch boost.
Step six. Make sure to put a change of underwear in the car so that you can change them after you **** yourself from the wheel stand.
Step two. Set the 2 step RPM just below that.
Step three. Buy and install a boost controller that can use CO2 like the AMS500.
Step four. Add 10 psi of CO2 to the launch stage on the gate.
Step five. Get up on the 2 step and see how high it'll go on boost. Adjust boost controller launch stage up or down until you achieve desired launch boost.
Step six. Make sure to put a change of underwear in the car so that you can change them after you **** yourself from the wheel stand.
#19
word, that is where i would start
a proper converter is HUGE, I found this out
PTC for me
and to the OP I have a very similar setup
370", powerglide, 3.23 rear gear, PTC converter on E85
only difference is i am running a 78GTS turbo (82mm turbine inducer)
the converter is very tight, and you can see in this vid still how easy it comes into boost
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_7bD8ORT_w
a proper converter is HUGE, I found this out
PTC for me
and to the OP I have a very similar setup
370", powerglide, 3.23 rear gear, PTC converter on E85
only difference is i am running a 78GTS turbo (82mm turbine inducer)
the converter is very tight, and you can see in this vid still how easy it comes into boost
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_7bD8ORT_w
Last edited by rotary1307cc; 03-15-2011 at 07:40 PM.
#20
10 Second Club
iTrader: (33)
Have you calculated exactly what your compression comes out to be?
On 18lbs with a SMALL tc78 and junkyard 5.3 I made 686rwhp in my rx7 which probably doesn't weigh much less than your car and went 8.9 at 154. I know you are at high elevation so I'll take that into account, but definitely need a better combo IMO.
I wouldn't spray it! Fix whats wrong, no bandaid it! First I'd start off with calling ptc and getting a converter, then I'd look at what your compression is exactly, possibly even swap heads to bring it up, with e85 no reason at all to run it that low. Then I'd go to the truck manifolds and 2.5" crossover and DITCH that spoolvalve(which probably isn't working right). The turbo is big, but you should be able to make it work ok, although I'd ditch it also if it was me. Then make sure you are using the 2 step, add timing and lean it out like mentioned.
The gear is fine I'd leave it, I'm running 3.55's on a 33" tire and go 1.31 60ft leaving on only 6lbs of boost on the brake. It's gone upper 1.3's leaving on less on the footbrake.
No reason even at that high elevavation you can't run mid/low 9's with the right combo.
On 18lbs with a SMALL tc78 and junkyard 5.3 I made 686rwhp in my rx7 which probably doesn't weigh much less than your car and went 8.9 at 154. I know you are at high elevation so I'll take that into account, but definitely need a better combo IMO.
I wouldn't spray it! Fix whats wrong, no bandaid it! First I'd start off with calling ptc and getting a converter, then I'd look at what your compression is exactly, possibly even swap heads to bring it up, with e85 no reason at all to run it that low. Then I'd go to the truck manifolds and 2.5" crossover and DITCH that spoolvalve(which probably isn't working right). The turbo is big, but you should be able to make it work ok, although I'd ditch it also if it was me. Then make sure you are using the 2 step, add timing and lean it out like mentioned.
The gear is fine I'd leave it, I'm running 3.55's on a 33" tire and go 1.31 60ft leaving on only 6lbs of boost on the brake. It's gone upper 1.3's leaving on less on the footbrake.
No reason even at that high elevavation you can't run mid/low 9's with the right combo.