Most power LS1 can handle?
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From: Norn Iron
Well I'm really interested in this because now I can a) either boost it like it is now to some 800-900HP and that's all or b) if block/heads can make more, let's say 1200HP, then I'll buy at least ARP head studs now, maybe different gaskets down the road. And start tuning it on E85 which is safer from what I read
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
Well I'm really interested in this because now I can a) either boost it like it is now to some 800-900HP and that's all or b) if block/heads can make more, let's say 1200HP, then I'll buy at least ARP head studs now, maybe different gaskets down the road. And start tuning it on E85 which is safer from what I read
Seriously man, buy a slightly larger turbo like I said and go to the track and start with mild boost and see what it will hook. If the track can take it, turn the boost up. Forget a hp number. It will mean **** if your car gets beat by a 500rwhp car that can hook while all you do is spin.
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Norn Iron
4wd cars will easily beat you. And even some 2wd cars with less power and weight, much like your Nissan, will get surprisingly close. Although again your auto will hook much better than my manual ever will.
Having lots of power seems like fun. And yes it is. But in terms of going fast there really are more things to consider, especially when it's over a short distance.
Making power is easy.
Making use of that power efficiently is much much harder.
If you're aiming for mile events, then by all means aim for as much power as possible though. I certainly dont have huge amounts of power, but oddly seem to go substantially faster over a mile than people claiming 2-300bhp more.
But that brings me back to the dont get hooked on numbers thing. Half of the dyno numbers I hear are just plain bullshit.
I know it's not only power that gets you ET... That is one of the reasons I took a blue pill and sold my T56 
That wasn't cheap by any means. And it's the reason I got 28x11.5 MT Drags (largest you can fit on F-body) and looking at QA1s for front.
But again, please, let's keep to the topic For now my power goal is 1300HP, with current LS1 block, probably other heads if it's impossible to achieve with Patriots. Bigger turbo of course.
BTW when you lift heads/push water, it's not like you have to immediately take off heads and replace gaskets, right?
That wasn't cheap by any means. And it's the reason I got 28x11.5 MT Drags (largest you can fit on F-body) and looking at QA1s for front.But again, please, let's keep to the topic
For now my power goal is 1300HP, with current LS1 block, probably other heads if it's impossible to achieve with Patriots. Bigger turbo of course.BTW when you lift heads/push water, it's not like you have to immediately take off heads and replace gaskets, right?
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
I know it's not only power that gets you ET... That is one of the reasons I took a blue pill and sold my T56 That wasn't cheap by any means. And it's the reason I got 28x11.5 MT Drags (largest you can fit on F-body) and looking at QA1s for front.
But again, please, let's keep to the topic For now my power goal is 1300HP, with current LS1 block, probably other heads if it's impossible to achieve with Patriots. Bigger turbo of course.
BTW when you lift heads/push water, it's not like you have to immediately take off heads and replace gaskets, right?
That wasn't cheap by any means. And it's the reason I got 28x11.5 MT Drags (largest you can fit on F-body) and looking at QA1s for front.But again, please, let's keep to the topic
For now my power goal is 1300HP, with current LS1 block, probably other heads if it's impossible to achieve with Patriots. Bigger turbo of course.BTW when you lift heads/push water, it's not like you have to immediately take off heads and replace gaskets, right?
Once that is done, it can only get worse. But you are correct, that you may not need to remove the heads and replace the gaskets. Many will drive with no noticable signs of head gasket issue for a very long time, when in fact there actually has been a breach.
You could have a very severe momentary breach, yet after it will return to a good sealing afterwards.
Ive blown a hole through my cylinder head and block, torching the gasket. Obviously during this incident the head did lift, integrity was lost, cooling system blew water out. But amazingly, afterwards cooling system integrity was still driveable, even if there was a hole from the cylinder to atmosphere lol
Metal shim gaskets are very versatile and tolerant in that respect.
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Verdad Gallardo Just saw MightyMouse interview that he changed gaskets every racing weekend So I guess if I flex heads few times that'll be OK, no real damage to the heads...
What's the difference between 12-point and hex ARP head studs? Which are better?
So I guess if I flex heads few times that'll be OK, no real damage to the heads...What's the difference between 12-point and hex ARP head studs? Which are better?
Let me start off by saying this is a great site with alot of knowlagdable people on here. But there are defenatly differance in opinions. everyone knows the power is no good unless its hooks. so that being said out with the E.T. info. i understand your wanting to know the limit of your ls1. well your guess is as good as anyone elses. most commonly if your getting to 700hp or above you will start seeing problems here and there.
aluminum blocks flex more if you can't afford a lsx block go with the next best. LQ4 or LQ9 cast block.
if your going to try and reach big boost with ALITTLE reliabuility then pull all the punchs. bigger head studds/o-ringing/after market headswith thicker deck. im not going to say you will hit 2000hp or anything crazy. but i personaly own a twin turbo 3rd gen f-body LQ4 block. I have been on 3 differant dyno's with 3 differant results. the lowest number being 937 at the rear wheels. my motor has been torn down many times. to be freshend up. or even repaired. set a goal go after it.
everyone knows just about how fast the wanna go 12's/10's/9's and it obviouse if you have a heavy car 450hp in a 3700bls car isn't going to run 10's so you dial up you HP and adjust/alter your suspension to make it hook.
good luck. thanks to all the guys on ls1 tech for all the great help you'v been
aluminum blocks flex more if you can't afford a lsx block go with the next best. LQ4 or LQ9 cast block.
if your going to try and reach big boost with ALITTLE reliabuility then pull all the punchs. bigger head studds/o-ringing/after market headswith thicker deck. im not going to say you will hit 2000hp or anything crazy. but i personaly own a twin turbo 3rd gen f-body LQ4 block. I have been on 3 differant dyno's with 3 differant results. the lowest number being 937 at the rear wheels. my motor has been torn down many times. to be freshend up. or even repaired. set a goal go after it.
everyone knows just about how fast the wanna go 12's/10's/9's and it obviouse if you have a heavy car 450hp in a 3700bls car isn't going to run 10's so you dial up you HP and adjust/alter your suspension to make it hook.
good luck. thanks to all the guys on ls1 tech for all the great help you'v been
Last edited by sniperperformance; Jun 12, 2011 at 09:09 AM.
I went 9.13 @ 151 with less than 800rwhp. I say if your goals are to run 9.5x, 700rwhp will get you there if you can get some weight out of the car. My car was 3470 lbs. raceweight. That was without even trying to cut weight out of the car.
Don't get too caught up in hp numbers cause if you don't have the right chassis it's gonna be worthless hp at the track. I mean what good is all that power if you can't put it to the ground.
The rods to me are a weak link. This is an area you certainly should not skimp on. I had Lunati pro mod rods in my motor and thought they would hold my goals. I was wrong! The number one rod bearing had come apart completely killed the crank. Lesson learned to build with good rods and even better rod bolts. This was only at 776 rwhp with a conservative tune, c16 and meth injection.
Oh yeah, the heads were ported 241's with arp studs. No sign of any water pushing at all.
Fireball's 366" LS2 had somewhere close to 1700 crank hp and lasted awhile at them levels. Still didn't push water but cracked a sleeve when that motor blew. It did have o-rings but still just 4 bolt heads.
Goes to show what a properly built stock block can handle........
Don't get too caught up in hp numbers cause if you don't have the right chassis it's gonna be worthless hp at the track. I mean what good is all that power if you can't put it to the ground.
The rods to me are a weak link. This is an area you certainly should not skimp on. I had Lunati pro mod rods in my motor and thought they would hold my goals. I was wrong! The number one rod bearing had come apart completely killed the crank. Lesson learned to build with good rods and even better rod bolts. This was only at 776 rwhp with a conservative tune, c16 and meth injection.
Oh yeah, the heads were ported 241's with arp studs. No sign of any water pushing at all.
Fireball's 366" LS2 had somewhere close to 1700 crank hp and lasted awhile at them levels. Still didn't push water but cracked a sleeve when that motor blew. It did have o-rings but still just 4 bolt heads.
Goes to show what a properly built stock block can handle........
1100 hp in a stock ls1 block can be done, yes, with an awesome tune up and everything else 100% perfect.
I wouldn't count on that though. I'd say 800 and don't turn it past 6800 rpm or 6500 if you can. It doesn't take as much power as you think to run 9's. I only put down around 525-550rwhp and my car has run a best of 10.39 at 138 with a shitty 1.79 60'. My car is an easy 9 sec car with a good 60'. If you could replicate my pass with a 1.4x 60' with 800 rwhp and a car that weighed the same as mine geared closely would easily run a 9.6x-9.4x at over 140mph.
Since your looking to keep the stock block for now I would invest in Methanol injection and don't bother with the methyl blue windshield washer ****, get M1 methanol, it works so much more effectively. Keep the AFR around 10.8-11.3, and don't run a lot of timing. Even with that conservative tune, and timing you should still hit 700rwhp on E85 if not more with meth in the mix.
I wouldn't count on that though. I'd say 800 and don't turn it past 6800 rpm or 6500 if you can. It doesn't take as much power as you think to run 9's. I only put down around 525-550rwhp and my car has run a best of 10.39 at 138 with a shitty 1.79 60'. My car is an easy 9 sec car with a good 60'. If you could replicate my pass with a 1.4x 60' with 800 rwhp and a car that weighed the same as mine geared closely would easily run a 9.6x-9.4x at over 140mph.
Since your looking to keep the stock block for now I would invest in Methanol injection and don't bother with the methyl blue windshield washer ****, get M1 methanol, it works so much more effectively. Keep the AFR around 10.8-11.3, and don't run a lot of timing. Even with that conservative tune, and timing you should still hit 700rwhp on E85 if not more with meth in the mix.
Last edited by Fbodyjunkie06; Jun 12, 2011 at 01:42 PM.
