Most power LS1 can handle?
lastls1, so at what power would you say it's better to o-ring? or what else could help my Patriots stay on the block?
10.1 at only 500HP is WOW. As for me, I'm sceptical about our so-called-tracks preparation and my suspension skills (which are 0). So I thought 900whp would still let me run 9.5 even in those conditions. As I said, we had 8.5s big-block car on our track and it could only do 6.5s in 1/8 due to traction issues
10.1 at only 500HP is WOW. As for me, I'm sceptical about our so-called-tracks preparation and my suspension skills (which are 0). So I thought 900whp would still let me run 9.5 even in those conditions. As I said, we had 8.5s big-block car on our track and it could only do 6.5s in 1/8 due to traction issues
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From: Norn Iron
lastls1, so at what power would you say it's better to o-ring? or what else could help my Patriots stay on the block?
10.1 at only 500HP is WOW. As for me, I'm sceptical about our so-called-tracks preparation and my suspension skills (which are 0). So I thought 900whp would still let me run 9.5 even in those conditions. As I said, we had 8.5s big-block car on our track and it could only do 6.5s in 1/8 due to traction issues
10.1 at only 500HP is WOW. As for me, I'm sceptical about our so-called-tracks preparation and my suspension skills (which are 0). So I thought 900whp would still let me run 9.5 even in those conditions. As I said, we had 8.5s big-block car on our track and it could only do 6.5s in 1/8 due to traction issues
And for the most part all that happens the more power you make....you just spin the wheels further up the track.
My fastest times on any of the poor surfaces were with a 5.7 and relatively mildly tuned.
Any of my bigger engines just resulted in worse 60fts and worse times. Although with slightly higher trap speeds.
Obviously using an automatic will be a big help, and if you can fit massive tyres, that will be a big help too.
But you are still asking for a lot. You need traction to achieve your times. Not as much power as possible.
Now I'm sure I'll get flamed but...
Has anyone tried to add extra head bolts/studs to 4 bolt head? Read it in A. Bell book, that adding just small 5/16" bolts help BBC heads clamp tremendously. Makes sense to me. Now I wonder is that possible with our heads? Looks to me there is some meat on the sides of cylinders where extra holes could be drilled...
Has anyone tried to add extra head bolts/studs to 4 bolt head? Read it in A. Bell book, that adding just small 5/16" bolts help BBC heads clamp tremendously. Makes sense to me. Now I wonder is that possible with our heads? Looks to me there is some meat on the sides of cylinders where extra holes could be drilled...
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From: Norn Iron
And with regards tyres. Ive never used those tyres before. But on a normal tarmac type airfield Ive tried MT DR's, MT ET Streets and Hoosier drag radials. All 255/50x16 or equivalent size.
The ET streets were the by far worst, and the Hoosiers the best. Roughly 0.1-0.2 sec difference in the 60ft with each tyre.
But all still over 2secs on that surface ! And still leaving black lines all way through 3rd gear.
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From: Norn Iron
Now I'm sure I'll get flamed but...
Has anyone tried to add extra head bolts/studs to 4 bolt head? Read it in A. Bell book, that adding just small 5/16" bolts help BBC heads clamp tremendously. Makes sense to me. Now I wonder is that possible with our heads? Looks to me there is some meat on the sides of cylinders where extra holes could be drilled...
Has anyone tried to add extra head bolts/studs to 4 bolt head? Read it in A. Bell book, that adding just small 5/16" bolts help BBC heads clamp tremendously. Makes sense to me. Now I wonder is that possible with our heads? Looks to me there is some meat on the sides of cylinders where extra holes could be drilled...
An easier option would likely just be to upgrade to 1/2" studs, although the 11mm ones do work well.
Or go to a ringed setup like Andreas used, although not sure how easy that is on an alloy block
From what I understood studs would be OK but heads can flex between studs, right? So bigger studs won't really help.
Yepp welding is out of question cause heads and block will become "soft" without special heat treatment. I'm looking for budget solutions
Yepp welding is out of question cause heads and block will become "soft" without special heat treatment. I'm looking for budget solutions
I don't think it's the studs, heads or oring. It's the block, I feel the cylinders are moving NOT the heads lifting. On a LSx block which is rated for 2500 hp your telling me the two 8 mm blots are making up for the extra 1500 hp in strenght? I don't think so. I feel it's the block not the two extra bolts.
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Verdad Gallardo Well don't want to argue since you obvously know loads more than me, but I feel BIG part of 6-bolt blocks strength (beside it being IRON lol) is extra bolts. Not even block itself but heads not lifting, actually...
I'm not arguing at all. I'm just giving you my opinion from my experience so you can make your best decision. Hopefully save you some headaches.
I still say the OP needs to quit worrying about how much power he can make when the track is poor. More power will not make up for a poor launch, it will just spin more making you even slower. A 550 rwhp car that can hook will run 9s.
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From: Norn Iron
And the only place you'll get that kind of grip, is a fully prepped track, with appropriate tyres.
Some people say you can raise wheels on the street So yes, in THIS particular thread I'm worrying about power. I might have created wrong impression that we race on dirt here, that's not true between RWD cars, most powerful still run the fastest. And then go standing mile and kilometer events. So yes, here I want to know how to make my combo run the most power. 1200-1300HP probably, whatever LS1 can take
P.S. remember, I can always turn down boost if needed
So yes, in THIS particular thread I'm worrying about power. I might have created wrong impression that we race on dirt here, that's not true between RWD cars, most powerful still run the fastest. And then go standing mile and kilometer events. So yes, here I want to know how to make my combo run the most power. 1200-1300HP probably, whatever LS1 can take P.S. remember, I can always turn down boost if needed
Last edited by Vetal; Mar 22, 2011 at 02:04 PM.
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From: Norn Iron
Some people say you can raise wheels on the street So yes, in THIS particular thread I'm worrying about power. I might have created wrong impression that we race on dirt here, that's not true between RWD cars, most powerful still run the fastest. And then go standing mile and kilometer events. So yes, here I want to know how to make my combo run the most power. 1200-1300HP probably, whatever LS1 can take
So yes, in THIS particular thread I'm worrying about power. I might have created wrong impression that we race on dirt here, that's not true between RWD cars, most powerful still run the fastest. And then go standing mile and kilometer events. So yes, here I want to know how to make my combo run the most power. 1200-1300HP probably, whatever LS1 can take But over the 1/4, there are 4wd cars with 4-500bhp that run faster than me on an airfield. I simply cannot get traction over such a short distance.
Over a mile, it's a rather different story.
Although even last year when I raced over 1km at Edinburgh airport at a charity event. Many cars were still crossing the line first, or very little difference. Although even the fastest of them was still 25mph down on my trap speed of around 180mph.
I simply couldnt get any grip until well into 4th gear.
What's your weight distribution? What tires? On my 110cid Nissan I cut 1.8 60' on very hard suspension, no weight transfer whatsoever... It's on 26x8.5 MT Drags though. And TransAm is on 28x11.5 MT Drags