Our TT kit is FINALLY done.....
Thread Starter
FormerVendor
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,765
Likes: 2
From: Homestead, FL
"Oh one last thing concerning the K-member design, I’ve spent over $8,000 with a patent attorney
and I don’t plan on letting any one copy it."
Nice Glad to hear it! That's what I wanted to hear. Hate to see someone pour there heart into something and not patent it.
and I don’t plan on letting any one copy it."
Nice Glad to hear it! That's what I wanted to hear. Hate to see someone pour there heart into something and not patent it.
This kinda sucks, would be nice if a turbo could be removed without lowering the k-member. Can the k-member be lowered enough without unhooking any of the suspension to remove a turbo?
FormerVendor
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 547
Likes: 1
I would hate to tell you that you could do it that way
and you find out that you can’t.
To be honest, you would be better off dropping the motor. Just about anything major you do to these cars
is easier if the motor comes out.
I see heads and cam swaps done with the motor in
but I would pull it.
I can have one out in 3-4 hr’s and not kill my self doing it.
I have a 2 post lift so that helps a bunch.
and you find out that you can’t.
To be honest, you would be better off dropping the motor. Just about anything major you do to these cars
is easier if the motor comes out.
I see heads and cam swaps done with the motor in
but I would pull it.
I can have one out in 3-4 hr’s and not kill my self doing it.
I have a 2 post lift so that helps a bunch.
I would hate to tell you that you could do it that way
and you find out that you can’t.
To be honest, you would be better off dropping the motor. Just about anything major you do to these cars
is easier if the motor comes out.
I see heads and cam swaps done with the motor in
but I would pull it.
I can have one out in 3-4 hr’s and not kill my self doing it.
I have a 2 post lift so that helps a bunch.
and you find out that you can’t.
To be honest, you would be better off dropping the motor. Just about anything major you do to these cars
is easier if the motor comes out.
I see heads and cam swaps done with the motor in
but I would pull it.
I can have one out in 3-4 hr’s and not kill my self doing it.
I have a 2 post lift so that helps a bunch.
I wouldn't consider needing to remove a turbo a major thing to do on our cars, so that is why I would want to unbolt one and be able to get it off.
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FormerVendor
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 547
Likes: 1
If you leave the lower control arms on the K-member the alignment should be good.
Just un-hook the brake line, lower ball joint, tie rod end and set the strut, spindle and brake assembly out as a unit.
If you pull the motor out the bottom one time you will be amazed at how easy it is.
Just un-hook the brake line, lower ball joint, tie rod end and set the strut, spindle and brake assembly out as a unit.
If you pull the motor out the bottom one time you will be amazed at how easy it is.
I've pulled engines out the 4th gens out top since the mid 90s. Not gonna change that now with trans attached with just a hoist and stands. Only pulled out the bottom becuz a tubular kmember was going back in place of stock.
Any time the K is removed you need to have it aligned. Even if you mark them like you should, it still SHOULD be aligned.
On that note, I can drop a k/trans in 45 mins on a lift... so why not?
On that note, I can drop a k/trans in 45 mins on a lift... so why not?
I agree if all you want is to get the motor out you can get it out quicker out the bottom but for me I will always pull it out the top. For about 3 hours I can have the motor sitting on an engine stand with no accessories or the intake and the brakes are still connected and the alignment hasn't been changed.
FormerVendor
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 547
Likes: 1
The elbows that the turbo intakes breath threw are ¼ wall forged
steel. All the plate that makes up steering rack and control mounts
is 3/16 mild steel.
I chose mild steel because it’s easy to get, can be mig welded, and it is
not as sensitive to cracking and it’s about half the price.
People think 4130 is lighter, it’s not. It’s a lot stronger so you can use thinner
tube and that’s where the weight savings come from.
I don’t see the point in using chrome if it is welded to mild anyway.
It’s the design that makes a K-member rigid not the material.
I bought K-members from every major players in the F-body game.
I was not able to do what I done using there K-members.
Things were in the wrong place.
By me making my own K-member I have 100% control over lead time,
fitment and quality control.
By the end of this summer I will have my powder coating shop up and running.
My powder coater is a great guy, but it took him 3 weeks to get my parts
back to me.
One more reason to bring as much of this kit in house as I can.
I took features that I liked from all of them to help me with this new
design and I employed my own features like the fully boxed rear mounting
point for the lower arm and the hole for the bolt tab on the front mounting point.
This hole is a bigger deal than most realize. That hole is put there from GM
so the alignment tech can put a wrench on the head of the bolt and swing the bolt
back and forth though the slot to make alignments easy.
He can push and pull on his wrench and move the control arm ¼, ½ a degree or what ever
he needs just like the factory K-member.
Last edited by Chris@CBR; Apr 19, 2011 at 08:28 AM.
