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PT88 turbo LS6 wont pull past 5k, w/dyno graph

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Old 04-29-2011, 03:36 PM
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I've run BR7EFs for 5 years now without issue. Don't know how much power I'm making, but it's enough to go 135mph with a 4200lb+ race weight.

Hope it was just a bad plug for ya man. Sounds like you covered all your bases.
Old 04-29-2011, 04:23 PM
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believe it or not when i use to run juice i got a BAD NGK BR7EF out of the box from NGK. it was like it never ignited and it was just a dud. car ran like a turd on 7 cylinders and shook real bad but never really threw a code.
Old 04-29-2011, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Busy Mopper
believe it or not when i use to run juice i got a BAD NGK BR7EF out of the box from NGK. it was like it never ignited and it was just a dud. car ran like a turd on 7 cylinders and shook real bad but never really threw a code.
I guess I over estimated the ability of the computer to tell when there was a misfire..........Learn something new every day.

I really hope its just a plug issue and you get everything going soon. Still interested to see what fixes it!
Old 04-29-2011, 07:07 PM
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Not that I have an FI setup making massive hp, but I did have a similar plug issue. I have swapped headers, put in new plugs and the car felt really flat. Finally found the bad plug after popping the hood at night with no lights on. I could actually see the plug arcing through the cracked ceramic.
Old 04-30-2011, 01:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Busy Mopper
from what plug to what plug tho?!
I dont remember. It had "ordered" high end plugs in it......and I put in the first thing I could find that would fit the brodix heads. They were 4553's or something.....but it was a big block.

I can find out, as Ill have the car back pretty soon. My point was that it had no real perceptable problem. If I recall, I wanted to change them because on the dyno it seemed to maybe miss just a little around 6000. Driving it, it had no reason to make you think anything was wrong. It was so subtle I thought it was a wire probably, but plugs on it were pretty easy, so I changed them and inspected the wires.
Old 04-30-2011, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by The Alchemist
Not that I have an FI setup making massive hp, but I did have a similar plug issue. I have swapped headers, put in new plugs and the car felt really flat. Finally found the bad plug after popping the hood at night with no lights on. I could actually see the plug arcing through the cracked ceramic.
had the same with the rotary and brand new plug wires.... was pissing me off so badly until i was lucky enough to pop the hood at dark while it was running!
Old 05-01-2011, 02:15 AM
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What does your AFR look like above 5000 rpm?
Old 05-02-2011, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by HydroStream6
I've run BR7EFs for 5 years now without issue. Don't know how much power I'm making, but it's enough to go 135mph with a 4200lb+ race weight.

Hope it was just a bad plug for ya man. Sounds like you covered all your bases.
Thanks man... I'm at such a loss right now. Several buddies with FI cars locally run "7" range plugs without issues. I'm considering swapping out to a non-resistor type plug... but not sure that'll fix my issue.

Originally Posted by speedsk899
I guess I over estimated the ability of the computer to tell when there was a misfire..........Learn something new every day.

I really hope its just a plug issue and you get everything going soon. Still interested to see what fixes it!
Thanks man... I'll be sure to keep this thread updated.

Originally Posted by Nitroused383
What does your AFR look like above 5000 rpm?
We've tried several things, anywhere from 10.5 to 11.5. No impact no matter where it is.
Old 05-02-2011, 02:38 PM
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In other news, I pulled the TH400 out of the car last night and found the "snout" on the PTC converter was broken off in the end of the crank. No idea what would have caused that to happen...

Looks like I'll have to call up Tim and let him to know expect my converter for repairs.
Old 05-02-2011, 02:49 PM
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Sounds like your converter ballooned into the back of the crank.Iirc it could also be the problem at hand too.
Old 05-02-2011, 03:05 PM
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Make sure to check your thrust bearing, it could be wiped out. I didn't think AFR was the issue but I was curious if it stayed smooth above 5000 rpm or if it was real jagged.
Old 05-02-2011, 04:11 PM
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dial indicator stuck on the back of the block zero'd while the crank is tapped all the way forward, then check to see what it is when its tapped towards the back of the car?

Will that get me what I need?
Old 05-03-2011, 10:06 AM
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so it was the damn converter?
Old 05-03-2011, 10:13 AM
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i dontknow why im thinking this but the 44mm wg sounds too small for a 88mm turbo? i run a 88 on a 357 and boost holds steady i use a tial 60mm gate.. wondering if something is causing a pressure build up and the gate is doing someting funny like bouncing?
Old 05-03-2011, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Busy Mopper
so it was the damn converter?
I don't know if its the converter or not yet. I sent it in to PTC to be inspected last night. I'm sure I'll hear from them as soon as they have a chance to cut it open.

Originally Posted by Mattsv8
i dontknow why im thinking this but the 44mm wg sounds too small for a 88mm turbo? i run a 88 on a 357 and boost holds steady i use a tial 60mm gate.. wondering if something is causing a pressure build up and the gate is doing someting funny like bouncing?
How much boost are you running? If my 44 was bouncing, wouldn't it show in my scans? My MAP pressure stays constant...
Old 05-03-2011, 06:35 PM
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At that RPM the converter was making the engine pickup KNOCK, the ECM pulls timing to save itself!!
Old 05-03-2011, 06:55 PM
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Had you read the thread you would have seen that there was no knock!
Old 05-03-2011, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by speedsk899
Had you read the thread you would have seen that there was no knock!
^^^this
Old 05-03-2011, 09:14 PM
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It will be interesting to see what you hear back from PTC.

They are good guys
Old 05-03-2011, 09:25 PM
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Agreed! Tim is the man.


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