Z8'S

iTrader: (6)

Great job on your car !! I cant believe how similiar our builds are other than LSX vs LTX

mdbreaux

Awesome throw a picture up I would love to see your engine.

mdbreaux

Anyone with experience on an ls2 cam sensor problem let me know. Car ran fine for weeks. Then ran fine at dyno. Then would not start cues no fuel or spark. Failed BAL test in bs3 - red ball not gray. Rpm noted correct while cranking. Read a bunch of forums and said cam sensor may not be sensing or may be sending signal at same time as crank signal. I use 24 wheel on crank. I loosened up cam sensor and jiggled it and left it loose and BAM! Fire right up. Ran fine for weeks then last night no start and huge backfire. Motor ok - thank god! Now afraid to attempt to start. Did not have laptop to check bs3 and run BAL test. Can't go down track with full boost and lose cam signal so can't do anything right now. John meany of bs3 told me recently he has an external cam sensor setup for this issue. .??????

Z8'S

iTrader: (6)

383 cu in.LTX twin gt42r Pro x glide pt3000 a/w

MillsMotorvation

Very nice work, and clean!! I scored a Virtor jr but its for a carb, I got to drill holes for the injectors, got any info on that? Also got to get a elbow.Will any of the elbows run a stock TB?

mdbreaux

Z8's, they are strikingly similar. Very clean engine compartment. Love it.

mdbreaux

MillsMotorvation, my intake elbow comes from 6061.com. The prices are very reasonable and the guy who makes them is extremely easy to talk to and knowledgeable. If I were drilling holes for injectors, I would use a step drill bit and then follow it through with a regular drill bit since the step bit probably will not reach all the way through.

Quick Carl

Check the crank/ cam position read out in the BS3. I've seen quite a few times where the raised protrusion on the face of the cam gear that the cam sensor reads needs the edge ground off to achieve 5-6 degrees advance. Normally this tends to drop as RPM increases so 4-5* at idle would be a minimum. At 12* advance or 0 the timing will jump and usually it happens from getting down to 0. It was probably close initially and as soon as the chain stretched a hair the timing jumped.
It senses when the protrusion stops when turning the engine clockwise, so facing the front of the engine it is on the farthest counter-clockwise edge that needs shortened. Usually 3/16" shorter will gain you 5-6* advance.
This only for the single protrusion cam gears.

mdbreaux

That is excellent information. I will have to look at BS3 and figure out how to check it before I start pulling everything apart to grind down that edge. I did check the BS3 BAL test and it had lost its signal. I then loosened the cma sensor and pulled it out them put it back in and then the BAL test passed while cranking and the engine started right up last night. Would that information still make your suggestion stay the same or is it possible that the air gap between the sensor and raised portion of the cam gear too long?

Quick Carl

If the sensor loses signal, then the air gap, sensor or wiring comes into question. What the earlier post affects is timing changes when running.

mdbreaux

I have an LS1 to LS2 harness extension. I guess it would not hurt to change the LS2 sensor for $30 and pull that extension and really check it good for possible problems before taking the next step. I was also thinking of pulling the spark plugs and sticking a wooden dowel into the cam sensor hole to feel when the raised portion of the trigger wheel gets to the sensor location while someone is turning the engine over. Then taking a depth measuring caliper and measuring the distance from the cover surface to the raised portion and comparing it to the sensor and trying to determine if there appears to be alot of air space. WHat I would do with it after that is a guess - maybe remove the timing cover and shave some off where the sensor mounts to get it very slose to the cam wheel and see what happens. ?????? Of course, I will check the advance of the cam sensor versus the crank position at TDC like you said and see if it is too close. So I have alot of things to do, I guess, before getting it back on the dyno again. BUMMER -it never ends.

mdbreaux

Z8's LT1 and My LS2 twins are twins. Looks like we coordinated the builds.

Quick Carl

http://bigstuff3.com/pdf/Ignition%20...0rev%201.2.pdf

I'm sure you have this with your Big stuff, but a way to check the actual position using a volt meter under type 8 COP ignition.

mdbreaux

Excellent. I did not have it, but I did run across it when this whole problem arose a few weeks ago before I jiggled the cam sensor and it re-established its signal. I have t read it and see what I cna figure out. I scanned it and remember an issue of the cam and crank signal occurring at the exact same time, which is a huge problem. That may be happening. I will definitely keep reporting progress and what the deal is just so others can learn from this nightmare. Definitely can't put it back on the dyno and blow up the engine when it loses the cam signal at WOT.

Quick Carl

Don't blow it up now being impatient. Car looks awesome and extremely clean BTW.

mdbreaux

I am one stepahead of you becasue I was suppose to put it abck on the dyno this week or next and it is not going back until I resolve the cam signal issue 100%. I am going to run through some of the tests available per your suggestion and that I have thought of. Then I need to just keep starting it and idling it until the sensor loses its signal again so I cna run a few more tests on it while it has lost its signal. It may take a few weeks, unfortunately. It sucks, but after 4 years I cna wait. Plus, I have already begun turning my attention to my 86 SVO turbo 4 project, which is basically all done (new paint, paneled engine compartment, race suspension, race rear end, big brakes, big wheels, tires, new interior, and engine already built with roller cam, aluminum head, custom twin scroll header, custom built Garrett turbo, Megasquirt with new harness, knock computer, etc.) All I had to do is make motor plates, move accessories around, and assemble. So my mind is never idle. LOL

TracyRR

iTrader: (8)

Damn micheal.... the svo looks killer..... i never saw the new paint!!! How much power is that 4 banger going to make? Looks like a pretty big turbo.... Great job as usual!

mdbreaux

Thanks Tracy. I am suppose to have the engine and tranny in this weekend, but I am going hunting in Grand Chenier so I have to try to get it done Sunday.

TracyRR

iTrader: (8)

Does the SVO have an engine installed? Need to start a thread on the bullet with that car. Very impressive build.... both of them!

mdbreaux

Engine is in one of those pics and is ready to be installed. I was suppose to do it last weekend, but got invited to go duck hunting all weekend. I have the engine and a uolt T5 with adapter plate for 5.0 bellhousing and clutch. Also, have a C4 for it, but will run the T5 for a while and see what I like before I decide to do the C4 or not. I will start a build thread as soon as I get the pics in Photobucket so I can do the thread in yellowbullet. Not sure if LS1tech would want me to start a build thread on a 4 cyl turbo Ford. LOL I will post a link as soon as I get it done, which will be very soon.