Gauges for pro charger car
#1
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I have a 2000 trans am that im putting a f1 pro-charger system on it and know that i need gauges but don't like the tripod on the left side of the drivers door
I know i need a wide band sensor, boost sensor and fuel pressure gauge but i wanna keep it to a min.
so i was thinking that i could do a Aero Force gauge to monitor most of the stuff and put one gauge in the cubby hole right above the shifter. but i don't know which one i should run by its self and which i should run off the Aero Force
Im not stuck on any gauges but want to do it right the first time so please if anyone has suggestion please let me know or if i am missing a gauge or sensor that i should be monitoring
I know i need a wide band sensor, boost sensor and fuel pressure gauge but i wanna keep it to a min.
so i was thinking that i could do a Aero Force gauge to monitor most of the stuff and put one gauge in the cubby hole right above the shifter. but i don't know which one i should run by its self and which i should run off the Aero Force
Im not stuck on any gauges but want to do it right the first time so please if anyone has suggestion please let me know or if i am missing a gauge or sensor that i should be monitoring
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I have boost, AFR, oil pressure and fuel pressure. Trans temp could be a good one. Im thinking about getting rid of my stock gauge cluster and just make a custom one with aftermarket gauges.
#7
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Ok, I'm new to this forced induction thing, but do you really need a boost gauge? I understand that for tuning purposes you're using the map sensor, so why the need for a boost gauge? Isn't boost directly related to the map sensor reading, so can't you just read the map sensor and convert kPa to psi? So since 100kpa = 1atm, which is 14.5psi, if you had ~150kpa, it would be 1.5 atm or 21.75psi - 14.5psi(atm) = 7.25psi of boost.
Last edited by The Alchemist; 05-27-2011 at 04:25 PM.
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im also new to fi so i could not tell you for sure but i think so that is why im trying to figure out what are the best to sensors to get for my build (i know i need AFR) other than that idk
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Ok, I'm new to this forced induction thing, but do you really need a boost gauge? I understand that for tuning purposes you're using the map sensor, so why the need for a boost gauge? Isn't boost directly related to the map sensor reading, so can't you just read the map sensor and convert kPa to psi? So since 100kpa = 1atm, which is 14.5psi, if you had ~150kpa, it would be 1.5 atm or 21.75psi - 14.5psi(atm) = 7.25psi of boost.
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Granted if the car feels like it's down on power, yes, I'm going to log data and check to see what psi I'm making, which is a lot safer than trying to focus on a gauge while hammering it.
#11
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Boost is something thats handy to know where you are at with things. Its not anything that you are going to be monitoring as closely as WB FP or RPM, but its good to know where you are. You could potentially be 1-2psi lower than normal due to a small leak in a pipe coupler that perhaps has a loose hose clamp and not really feel the difference in the SOTP. Or you could be getting some belt slip after a new belt has been broken in and need to tighten it before it glazes over and becomes useless..
Lots of reasons to have a boost gauge. If you HAD to pick only 2, then go with WB and FP, but I'd recommend getting boost as well. I have all 3 plus an aeroforce interceptor to check out other miscellaneous parameters such as KR, timing, coolant temp, or whatever else the computer sees that I may be interested in at the time.
Lots of reasons to have a boost gauge. If you HAD to pick only 2, then go with WB and FP, but I'd recommend getting boost as well. I have all 3 plus an aeroforce interceptor to check out other miscellaneous parameters such as KR, timing, coolant temp, or whatever else the computer sees that I may be interested in at the time.